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Everything posted by ippy

  1. It was called 'BARS' Leak seal
  2. i'm gonna do the rear shocks 2morow did'nt know if you had to torque them up or not I would rather put new pinch bolts in rather than use the old ones (if i can get them out that is)
  3. Its a vacum pipe all to do with the abs i had the same problem few years back i think its a ford only part easy enough to fit though
  4. Any1 know the size and where to get 2 new pinch bolts? also the torque settings for the rear shock bolts
  5. put the h/brake on put it in 2nd gear put ur heel on footbrake and ur toe on gas and let the clutch up slowly whilst slightly pressing accelerator if u can u take ur foot off the clutch and it still runs ur clutch is knackered make sure ur not facing a wall and there's nothing in front of you
  6. also get the dmf changed as well
  7. Cheers for the info m8
  8. I've got compressers and if i have to i'l cut the bolt out, but other than that are they easy to do? i changed the front legs on my '1967 1.6 ford Cortina mk2 column change' many many moons ago dunno if it will be basically the same
  9. I'm toying with the idea of changing my front shocks but i don't know weather to do it myself or let my local garage do it so my question is how hard is it to do and do i need any special tools
  10. get the fuel filter changed see if that makes a difference, i would also put some additives in the tank, i use 'forte'
  11. It wont do any harm just filling up every now and again with a super diesel, i find it runs a bit smoother, changes gear smoother and it pulls away a bit better, as for more mpg and performance i suppose it depends on how you drive really, but i don't see a lot if any to be quite honest
  12. In a couple of months i'm going to do my shocks and springs all round has any1 heard of 'Nordic' springs and if so are they any good?
  13. It could be the button on the end of the stalk use some polish on the end of the stalk where the button slides in and give it a good clean, worked with mine i had to push real hard to get it to work after i polished it it works like new, its worth a go
  14. Good luck with that if you wanna let them loose on your car imho
  15. its not the spring on the pedal is it?
  16. have you tried a battery cable? if i was you i would go buy a cheap soldering iron and a roll of solder and do it properly m8, (cos that looks like it could catch fire) I had a triumph 2.5 pi many moons ago and i wired a radio straight to the battery no inline fuse nothing but i used 240v cable and one day just checking the oil when i shut bonnet i just nicked the wire and i watched it melt the insulation and glow red so i just grabbed the wire and tried to yank it off luckily it snapped but as a result i burned all my finger joints down to the bone i still bear the scars now (25 years on), all im saying is i was lucky you or your passengers might not be,
  17. Stick some K Seal in and get shot
  18. As Tom says as long as the welder knows wot hes doing you should be ok, don't forget to disconnect the battery first, Yeap ur right Tom it will only take a few seconds to weld it back on, the problem is whether or not the metal is good enough and not rusty if it is you will end up with just a big hole and nothing to weld to if you've got a third of the hanger still attached you could weld another piece to it to re hang it some pics would maybe help (4got to say I'm a welder)
  19. I think its a torque converter (or it used to be in the old days ) not a clutch plate good job its under warranty cos that could cost a pretty penny
  20. Working or not it wont spoil the way the car drives Hope you get it sorted m8
  21. I understand plugging in diag m/c wont invalidate anything but if you start messing with things it'll be there excuse not to pay out it may be worth asking the 3rd party people though
  22. take it back to dealer where you got it, it should still have warranty b4 you have a go at it otherwise you may invalidate the warranty
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