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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.

Sam Price

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  1. here is a photo with the first solder I did- excuse my soldering, it's not great and I'll just have to see how long it lasts!
  2. For any of you who are interested or are having a similar problem I've fixed the problem so far. I took apart the turbo actuator housing for the umpteenth time but actually checked each solder joint that comes off of the circuit board to the take power to the motor...a small delicate nudge on each one is enough to see if any are loose. I also checked carefully with a multimeter for continuity- you want to get your multimeter probes on the piece of the joint that is attached to each contact which is quite difficult otherwise you end up just testing the solid wire and always get a positive result... Anyway, two of the joints were loose and had come adrift very very slightly after only thinking it was one- enough to short and set the flashing glow plug light off and set the turbo with no boost. So after reading about peoples attempts I took the plunge and got a dremel-type tool with a tiny abrasive ball to get rid of the tin coating on the contact pad where the joint is attached to. This left a nice copper surface for me to carefully solder the joints back on. Just to let you know my soldering iron is a piece of poo that I actually got free, has no temperature gauge or anything and I still managed to secure the joint with a fairly tidy solder. The actuator was then put back on the car and I gave it a start- no flashing light. So I get the engine nice and warm with a test drive, come back and then restart. Again, no flashing light and engine running as normal!! Will let you guys know if this fix works with more hot starting etc SWEEEEET Cheers
  3. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Is it possible to use a different actuator unit on my turbo, where and who have said that you have to get the whole assembly? What would actually be calibrated between the actuator circuit/motor and the turbo?
  4. It seems to be yes. I'm not really sure how to check the joints with a meter and if I did wouldn't they just read OK because it works fine when I start from cold? Thanks
  5. Hi everybody Recently bought a 2005 Mondeo estate 130 TDCi. After a month or two and after a long drive back from Wales to Bucks I restarted the engine at a train station and the engine glow plug light started flashing and went into some sort of limp home mode with no turbo boost.. Things I've tried already: - checked turbo actuator arm and it moves freely when engine is hot and cold - cleaned out EGR valve and inlet manifold (then replaced EGR valve with another tested 2nd hand one because of stripped threads so it was blowing gases) - MAF sensor is clean - checked turbo actuator circuit board for any loose connections, nothing there! - had a diagnostic reader plugged in and it found 'P132B Turbocharger Boost Control A Performance' - theres no blue smoke and the turbo works fine when in a normal state - when I hot started it the actuator arm stayed in the same place and didn't move at all when revving Anything else I can do? Possibility of hair line cracks on connections on actuator circuit board? Thanks Sam
  6. Welcome to the Ford forums Sam Price :)