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    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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About pat100

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    Focus Estate
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  1. Ford Focus Mk.2 Estate Boot Water Ingress

    Mick, My T-tracks (I think Ford call them C-tracks!) have a separate front and back piece of trim. Are you able to say what has to be done to remove them? You said to remove the "rear 2" bolts (nuts?) - did you mean one from each track (passenger side and driver's side (= 2 total.) Or did you mean two of the three on each side? (= 4 total.) I am asking as I can see the rearmost ones without removing the headlining (which I am too lazy to to do!)
  2. Edit: AKA C-track Hi! I can't see how to remove the ends of the T-track roof rails (black groove type) of my 2005 Focus estate. A front one (about 20cm long) is loose at the front and removing the rear ones (about 6cm long) will help me deal with water ingress through the seam under them. How are they kept on? Are they held in place by the T-tracks or do they just "unplug" some how? I am scared of applying a lot of force incase I do some damage!
  3. Ford Focus Mk.2 Estate Boot Water Ingress

    I may have identified the leak more precisely. At the tail end of the T-tracks on my 05 estate the rubber seal forms a transverse flap, which hangs down. If I lift this flap, and peer in with a torch, my line of sight runs forward under the T-track (I.e. I can see under it from the back) I could just make out two parallel hairline cracks (running fore and aft) in base of the groove that runs under the T-Track. They extended for about 3cm, positioned in about 1cm from the hanging flap. I missed them at first as they were very hard to spot. I applied a coat of mastic over them and shaped it so that water could flow back over it and thus would not well up (much) in the groove. It took me ages to find this leak as the water appeared to come in around the hinge "cup" but was in fact tracking across from the end of the T-Track inside the double skin of that area. It exited in two streams - one allowed it to come out of the louvres in the plastic trim to the rear of the window and the other exited under the roof trim and dripped down into, and outside of, the little openable vertical pocket in the carpet trim (twist catch). This was with the car on the level. I could see cracks under both rails and, although only the passenger side one was leaking, I put sealant on both. I could fix this much better if I could remove the separate rear end of the T-tracks. Does anyone know how to do that? Is it held in place by the T-track or is it just a question of levering and tugging?
  4. Cost Of New Key?

    Stoney871 is right. Even though I had 2 non-cloned full keys I could not program a third manual (non-remote) key in the ignition lock however hard I tried. I had to fork out another £40 to have it done via the diagnostics port (5 minutes!) Timpsons "ordinary shop" could not clone it. There is disagreement on the Internet as to whether DIY programming via the ignition switch is possible. I think that this stems from the fact that before MarkII it was possible and that it STILL seems to be possible on all USA Focuses. My experience on a UK 2005 Focus is that DIY can't be done.
  5. Cost Of New Key?

    I only had one 2005 Focus flip 3-button key and needed another. I bought a blank one for £30 on eBay. In Huddersfield, Horatio Nelson Firth (!) in Milnsbridge cut it for £7.50 and The Huddersfield Lock & Key Centre in Paddock (Market Street) programmed the transducer as a new key (not as a clone) to my car via the diagnostics port. Took about 10 mins and cost £40. Hopefully I can now program another key myself in the ignition as I now have two seperate keys. Total cost was £77.50 which was cheaper than the £120 which B&S Locksmiths, a mile away,wanted! (I programmed the remote myself as per the handbook in a few seconds - note: re-program ALL your remotes at the same time NOT just the new one) EDIT: For "transducer" read "transponder" ;)
  6. Welcome to the Ford forums pat100 :)