stef123

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stef123 last won the day on May 17

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About stef123

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Stefan
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo ST TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Fife
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Entertainment
    Computers & Electronics
  • Contributor
    5

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Fife

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  1. I fit a tonne of Pagid stuff every week so I suspect it's something they are doing, or not doing.
  2. What brand of parts are they using?
  3. I can’t comment on the normfest contact cleaner as it’s not the stuff I use but I do use their brake cleaner and it works very well.
  4. It’s all about the penetration lol
  5. The so called ‘self test’ is a complete waste of time. you'd probably be best to look at getting a lead from eBay and downloading Forscan, so this setup will cost you say, £20. Then you can atleast see what is coming up and start to diagnose from that information.
  6. Either apply power directly to it in situe through a fused power source or remove it and bench test it and again, use a fused power source. With the motor unplugged from the vehicle you could try fittings another fuse and see if it blows again, if it does you have a short to ground somewhere.
  7. It’s safe to say at this point the blower motor needs testing.
  8. If you are not fitting it yourself I wouldn’t bother trying to supply a garage with the parts. Many won’t be interested and you will have trouble with the warranty on the part itself should there be a problem down the line.
  9. If the track rod end is just seized on the threads a bit of heat from an acetylene torch will free it. When I replace track rod ends I only ever do a pair, I also factor in the cost of an alignment into my price. Part of the job for me, which makes the alignment much less hassle is to run a die down the threads to remove any build up/rust. Once alignment is set I spray a rust inhibitor on the now bare threads. Don’t know what labour is like where you are to give an idea of cost.
  10. You would need to get a quote from a local motor mechanic to replace the assembly.
  11. It’s perfectly doable if you have the tools and equipment.
  12. I have used Fluid Film on my van, with the proper spray gun/lance setup its easy to get into all the cavities and box sections. It needs topping up annually but does not dry out or wash off. It can be bought in large bottles or small aerosol tins which are handy for touch ups/disturbances. Fluid film also neutralises existing rust so fingers crossed the areas you cannot see but can spray a mist of the product in will be fine for years to come. Fluid Film looks to be comparable to Crown rust proofing. If you have access to do it yourself will save you hundreds of pounds however. When my van needs doing again, perhaps if someone reminds me I'll do a write up lol.
  13. To answer your question above that I forgot about, you are correct in saying that if the clutch isn’t lined up bang on the gearbox will not go back on.
  14. I can’t remeber what size the fill plug is, 8mm hex maybe? pull the shafts out, catch what comes out. Once the box is out just tip it up on end to allow the rest of it to drain.
  15. To be honest where I can, I align clutches by eye. I’ve got one of the cheap plastic tools from the likes of Halfords for everything else. As long as you make sure the friction plate is bang on centre with the pressure plate as you tighten up the plastic cone until it’s solid they do work well enough. I've got one of those metal kits but in all honesty I don’t think I’ve ever used it. Other than that, don’t operate/push the bearing in on the concentric slave cylinder, I’ve seen the seals get damaged by people pressing the spring loaded part in before there’s fluid in it. Obviously it’ll pressed in as the box goes on.