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stef123

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stef123 last won the day on May 17 2019

stef123 had the most liked content!

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About stef123

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

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  • First Name
    Stefan
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Transit connect
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Fife
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
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Previous Fields

  • Location
    Fife

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. If you have access to diagnostic kit, I would look at the fuel trims and use those to see if they indicate a vacuum leak
  2. I can put you in touch with a supplier of tyres and valves etc in Perth if you require? He will do as little or as much as you like
  3. I tend to quote for spring and drop link as it’s much less hassle to chop the link off and replace than it is to mess around with it. to do spring and drop link I’d estimate £100-£120 depending on your local labour rate. Parts should be around £50 Add on wheel alignment if you do wish although most don’t.
  4. Have you got the blasting cabinet and stuff set up yet?
  5. Try pressure or vacuum bleeding. Next time, hold the brake pedal down with a piece of wood or something of that nature before you crack open anything. You’ll get a slight release of fluid and nothing more when you open a fitting.
  6. Just renew the stem and replace the sensor.
  7. Sorry for the late reply to this one. Off hand I cant even remember how long these take dispite having done a few now lol. My advice would be make sure whoever is doing it is familiar with them, I've had one in to redo after the upper and lower belts were replaced but the housing alignment tool was not used and ultimately the crank seal failed very quickly. No change from £500 at least if its done with quality parts.
  8. Play on the inner can be easily detected without taking anything apart. they are pretty straight forward to replace, the only issue you would likely come across is lack of access.
  9. You need to check or have a garage check the cooling system for leaks. There is nothing more right now I don’t think can be advised. Without someone physically looking anything here is just a stab in the dark I’m afraid.
  10. You need to find someone who knows how to properly diagnose the charging circuit. No good chucking parts at it. At a guess a loose connection or broken wire somewhere might give an intermittent fault like that but it needs to be tested and proven where that fault lies.
  11. Looks like the exciter wire for the starter solenoid.
  12. It looks like a SwitZer going by the box in the photo
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