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Super Mod
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Everything posted by stef123

  1. I guess the answer to that depends how experienced or confident you are. if it’s a standard mechanical handbrake it is essentially the same job as any other.
  2. If you have access to diagnostic kit, I would look at the fuel trims and use those to see if they indicate a vacuum leak
  3. I can put you in touch with a supplier of tyres and valves etc in Perth if you require? He will do as little or as much as you like
  4. I tend to quote for spring and drop link as it’s much less hassle to chop the link off and replace than it is to mess around with it. to do spring and drop link I’d estimate £100-£120 depending on your local labour rate. Parts should be around £50 Add on wheel alignment if you do wish although most don’t.
  5. Have you got the blasting cabinet and stuff set up yet?
  6. Try pressure or vacuum bleeding. Next time, hold the brake pedal down with a piece of wood or something of that nature before you crack open anything. You’ll get a slight release of fluid and nothing more when you open a fitting.
  7. Just renew the stem and replace the sensor.
  8. Sorry for the late reply to this one. Off hand I cant even remember how long these take dispite having done a few now lol. My advice would be make sure whoever is doing it is familiar with them, I've had one in to redo after the upper and lower belts were replaced but the housing alignment tool was not used and ultimately the crank seal failed very quickly. No change from £500 at least if its done with quality parts.
  9. Play on the inner can be easily detected without taking anything apart. they are pretty straight forward to replace, the only issue you would likely come across is lack of access.
  10. You need to check or have a garage check the cooling system for leaks. There is nothing more right now I don’t think can be advised. Without someone physically looking anything here is just a stab in the dark I’m afraid.
  11. You need to find someone who knows how to properly diagnose the charging circuit. No good chucking parts at it. At a guess a loose connection or broken wire somewhere might give an intermittent fault like that but it needs to be tested and proven where that fault lies.
  12. Looks like the exciter wire for the starter solenoid.
  13. It looks like a SwitZer going by the box in the photo
  14. I'm very jealous of the bike lift! Haven't manage to justify one yet lol. I only look after 2 bikes at present lol. What are you using extraction wise for the blast cabinet? I'm in the process of doing a midlife upgrade on mine lol. 3d printed a 4" flange which i have now fitted but I've mad a temporary bung to continue using a hoover for now. Going to be connecting it up to a purpose made blasting extractor with a cyclone to reduce the waste inside the filters.
  15. Strip down and clean everything. Ensure the thread on the adjuster is smooth and moves freely. The handbrake is crap because its travelling too far.
  16. Go for it mate, started my business just over a year ago now and never regretted it. Once you are up and running, I presume you will be doing powder coating on wheels? If so I may be interested in keeping in touch to send some business your way now n again. Currently don't have a trust worthy powder coating firm. Last one has recently moved premise near Edinburgh, you may know who I mean. Last customer was far from impressed with the quality of his work after a few months and I don't blame them, so that's the last one for me. p.s same day turn around is a great luxury lol. All the best.
  17. It looks very low on that corner too, my guess is a spring
  18. The proper way to test the signals is with an oscilloscope. you will be able to check for battery voltage on one of the pins with a multimeter.
  19. Look at the 3 wire connector on the alternator, usual problem is with one of those wires breaking in the loom.
  20. You have a smart charge fault, the alternator has reverted to a safe voltage.
  21. My tyre disposal cost is up £1.44 per car tyre at the moment!
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