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JW1982 last won the day on September 5 2021

JW1982 had the most liked content!

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    Focus MK3 Champions Edition
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    General Automotive
    Car Modification

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  1. I have been using aftermarket Chinese audio systems for quite a while. My experience is that a lot of these systems are quite good but there is also a lot of crap. Determining which of the systems are good and finding a good system can be quite a challenge. I recommend the following specifications: * OS = Android 9 or Android 10 (look for the API level). * SoM (contains the processor) = PX5 or PX6. * ROM memory = 4 GB * RAM memory = 64 GB * USB connections = 2 or more. * SD card slots = 1 or more. * DSP = Recommended (devices without DSP however can also have a decent sound quality. Apart from the specifications it is highly recommended to choose a device that is based on the MTCx Platform (MTCD, MTCE or MTCH). The MTCx Platform was developed many years ago and is since then adopted by many Chinese manufacturers. MTCx Platform devices are modular build and contain the following parts: * Touchscreen. * Front control panel (hardware buttons). * Mainboard. The mainboard includes hardware like amplifier , FM radio, CD/DVC player, Front/Rear camera, WiFi, Bluetooth, USB, etc. * SoM (System on module) The SoM contains the Processor, ROM/RAM memory, Android OS, etc). * MCU. The MCU is a standalone OS that is integrated onto the mainboard. The MCU forms the gateway between the Android OS and the amplifier, FM radio, CD/DVD player, Front/Rear camera, etc. * CANbus Converter. On vehicles with a CANbus network a (brand/vehicle specific) CANbus Converter is used to convert the required CANbus communication into a standard (serial output) that is used by the audio system. * Brand/vehicle specific wiring harness. The wiring harness and CANbus Converter are basically the only things that make these MTCx Platform devices brand/vehicle specific. A big advantage of the MTCx Platform is that there is an active Android community for these devices. All MTCx Platform devices use the same software. This means that all MTCD, MTCE and MTCH ROM's (and custom ROM's) are interchangeable as long as the OS and processor are the same. On most devices it is even possible to upgrade to a different OS (from example from Android 9 to Android 10).
  2. That is not possible with original parts. Despite being a further development the new 1.0 ECOboost shares very little parts with the old 1.0 ECOboost. The new 1.0 ECOboost even has the cylinder head reversed (intake at the front and exhaust at the rear). Apart from this the fitment of the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys is also different. Converting the wetbelt setup to a chain setup requires a lot of engineering and production of custom parts. Personally I do not sea any reason to convert the wetbelt into a chain. When a new wetbelt is correctly installed, all services are performed conform the service schedule and the correct engine oil is used the wetbelts should easily last 150.000 Miles / 240.000 KM or 10 Years. Not respecting the service intervals or usage of incorrect engine oil are the main reasons for the wetbelt to fail prematurely. Why would you want to do this? This will result in excessive oil pressure and requires a pressure relief valve to prevent overpressure of the system. Excessive oil pressure can damage the oil pump, oil filter and in the end will result in excessive wear of the engine. Why would you bother? There are basically 2 reasons why the oil pump strainer of the 1.0 ECOboost becomes clogged: 1: Strainer clogged with sludge caused by deterioration of the engine oil. This however is only applicable on vehicles that are not regularly used. After 10 to 12 weeks of not being used condensation inside the engine oil causes the engine oil to deteriorate and form a sludge. 2: Strainer clogged with large rubber particles of the wetbelt(s). This is a result of not respecting the service intervals or usage of incorrect engine oil. Early deterioration of the wetbelt(s) can easily be detected well before the strainer becomes clogged by inspecting the old engine oil after an oil change. Collect the old engine oil and pour a bit of oil onto clean (preferably white) coffee filter) wait until the oil passes the filter and check for rubber particles. If a considerable amount of rubber particles is detected the wetbelts need to be replaced and the sump needs to be removed anyway. When the car is regularly used, all services are performed conform schedule and the correct engine oil is used there is no reason to clean the strainer every service. Since a brand new bottom end (short block) can be bought for just above €1000,- from several suppliers it is not really worth the effort to rebuild the old bottom end. Machining the engine block (boring and honing) to oversize pistons, polishing/grinding the crankshaft, checking al dimensions and tolerances and rebuilding the engine using new pistons, piston rings and bearings will only be marginally less expensive than a new bottom end.
  3. I would personally go for the 1.0 ECOboost but only if the car has a full service history, all services were performed within schedule conform Ford specifications and requirements.
  4. To install the complete RS air filter housing onto a 1.0 or 1.6 ECOboost (and probably also other engine types) you need the following parts: RS air filter housing. Finis 1937555. Part number G1FY-9600-RB €142,60 Tube. Finis 5167301. Part number CV61-9A675-AD €22,32 Tube. Finis 5176123. Part number CV61-9C679-BC €33,09 Tube. Finis 1745845. Part number BV61-9C679-CA €11,53 Bracket. Finis 5160503. Part number CV61-9E635-AA €8,85 From a performance point of view installing only the top part of the RS air filter housing is more than enough on a 1.0 or 1.6 ECOboost. The additional intake tubes do not improve performance or sound. Just installing the top part is enough to make the induction sound a bit louder. However do not expect miracles because most of the induction noise is dampened by the turbocharger anyway. These days the top part of the RS air filter housing can be bought from AliExpress for about €20,- to €30,- (versions without RS logo are also available). I have seen one of these in real life and to be honest it looks and feels the same as the original one.
  5. Bol

    Happy new year.

    I red that you have the rs lid on your 1.0 airbox. Did you change the whole air box or just the lid? does this increace performance? and does it make sound more noticesable/sport?

  6. That adapter cable is only applicable on the later type of FCDIM that has a green Rosenberger HSD (4-pole and ground) camera connector. These later FCDIM types do no longer require a camera module. If your MK3 is produced in 2013 it will have the older type of FCDIM that has a tan Fakra (1-pole and ground) camera connector. If your car does indeed have the older type of FCDIM there are 3 possibilities to retrofit a rear view camera: 1: Replace the FCDIM by the later type of FCDIM with Rosenberger HSD connector. Install an aftermarket NTSC camera and RCA --> Rosenberger HSD adapter cable. 2: Install a Russian aftermarket camera module. Install an aftermarket NTSC camera and RCA --> Fakra adapter cable. 3. Install an original camera, wiring and camera module.
  7. Only a limited number of parts of the wing mirror are available as spare parts. The spare parts that are available are the mirror glass, painted mirror cover, indicator light and footwell light. The mirror housing is part of the complete wing mirror and is not separately available.
  8. In this case it is highly recommended to check the crankshaft/camshafts timing first. This however is a 3 to 4 hour job. Checking the crankshaft/camshafts timing requires the rocker cover to be removed. Removing the rocker cover requires the ignition coils, induction hardpipe, induction hoses, high pressure fuel pump, fuel line, injector fuel rail, injector wiring harness, vacuum lines, crankcase ventilation hoses, etc. to be removed. Once the rocker cover is removed the plug that covers the timing hole inside the crankcase must be removed and the crankshaft timing pin (303-1604) must be installed. Now rotate the crankshaft clockwise until it is blocked by the crankshaft timing pin. Now check the following things: 1: Crankshaft pulley. The timing hole inside the crankshaft pully should be in line with the timing hole of the engine block. This can easily be checked by inserting the crankshaft timing pin (303-732). If the holes are not in line the crankshaft pulley is not installed correctly. 2: Camshaft timing. Both crankshafts have a machined square that is used to set the timing. Remove the TI-VCT actuators and installI the TI-VCT pulley locking tools (303-1606) The locking tool prevents the pulleys from moving. Next install the camshaft alignment tools (303-1605) onto the cylinder head. The alignment tools should easily fit onto the machined square without any force. If the alignment tools do not fit at all or force is required to fit the alignment tools the camshaft timing is not correct. If the timing is not correct it can be corrected by removing and reinstalling the crankshaft pulley. This however requires quite some special tools like for example the torque multiplier (303-1611), torque multiplier adapters (303-1611-1 and 303-1611-2) and the crankshaft locking tool (303-1602). Changing the wetbelts on a 1.0 ECOboost is not rocket science but without all special tools it is very dificult to perform this job correctly. Since the special tools that are required to perform this job are quite expensive (especially the torque multiplier) there are very few independent garages that have these special tools. Many that try to perform this job without the special tools fail ! It is also important to know whether they changed only the main wetbelt or also the oil pump wetbelt. Changing the oil pump wetbelt is a considerable amount of work because the sump also needs to be removed but not changing the oil pump wetbelt while changing the main wetbelt is extremey stupid. Since the oil pump wetbelt is installed behind the main wetbelt on the crankshaft the oil pump wetbelt can only be replaced if the main wetbelt is removed. If in any doubt it is highly recommended to have the wetbelts changed again by a Ford dealer or specialist who generally are experienced in performing this job.
  9. From a technical point of view there is nothing wrong with the 1.6 TI-VCT engine. The 1.6 TI-VCT engine that is used on the Focus MK3/MK3.5 is basically a further development of the older 1.6 TI-VCT engine that was used before on the Focus MK2/MK2.5. On the Focus MK3/MK3.5 there are several different versions of the 1.6 TI-VCT engine: 1.6 TI-VCT 85 HP with IB5 manual transmission. 1.6 TI-VCT 105 HP with IB5 manual transmission. 1.6 TI-VCT 125 HP with IB5 manual transmission. 1.6 TI-VCT 105 HP with Powershift dual clutch automatic transmission. 1.6 TI-VCT 125 HP with Powershift dual clutch automatic transmission. Technically however on the Focus MK3/MK3.5 there are only 2 different versions of the 1.6 TI-VCT engine: 1.6 TI-VCT with single catalytic converter and 2x O2 sensors (85 HP / 105 HP with IB5 manual transmission). 1.6 TI-VCT with dual catalytic converter and 4x O2 sensors (125 HP with IB5 manual transmission and 105 HP / 125 HP with Powershift dual clutch automatic transmission). This means that the 85 HP with manual transmission can easily be upgraded to 105 HP and the 105 HP with Powershift transmission can easily be upgraded to 125 HP using original software. The 1.6 TI-VCT engine however also has is shortcomings. Being a traditional naturally aspirated engine the 1.6 TI-VCT has a pretty low torque output (which is only available at higher RPM's). As a result of the low torque output the 1.6 TI-VCT feels pretty gutless and the engine needs to be revved to perform adequately. Also be aware that the 1.6 TI-VCT was designed in a time (the Sigma engine was developed in the early 90's) that fuel economy was not the top priority. Do not expect the 1.6 TI-VCT engine to be very good on fuel economy. There is a good reason why the traditional 4-cilinder naturally aspirated 1.6 TI-VCT engine was fully replaced by the downsized 3-cilinder turbocharged 1.0 ECOboost engine. The 1.0 ECOboost offers the same engine power and a much higher torque output (at both low and high RPM's) with a considerably better fuel economy. I suggest to drive both the 1.6 TI-VCT engine and the 1.0 ECOboost engine.
  10. hi there i wonder if you can please I've got a ford grand c max 1.5 diesel 2016 i have put a new steering wheel with cruise control onit I've plugged it all in activated with forscan to cruise control and asl done everything right as far as im aware but still no cruise control only thing that happens is the cruise control buttons light up and that's about it. i have come to a brick wall don't know what else i can do ive followed ur instructions and loads of others and still not working please could you help i don't mind paying you if it gets working my email is jason.williams2375@gmail.com kind regards jason and many thanks 

  11. The camera behind the windshield is not a normal camera. The camera behind the windshield is a high resolution black and white camera. The camera is integrated into a control module that constantly processes the camera image. The system can detect for example: * Ambient light intensity. * Light intensity in distance (other traffic). * Traffic signs. * Road markings. * Distance to objects (other traffic). This camera is not suitable to be used as a dashcam. Even if you are able to get an image from the camera it will not result in a usable image.
  12. The old 1.6 TI-VCT combined with the Powershift gearbox is not particularly known to have good fuel economy. To be honest an average fuel consumption of 25 MPG during winter is quite normal for this type of engine.
  13. The connecting rod bolts of the 1.0 ECOboost are considered to be regular fully threaded high tensile steel bolts. These can be re-used without problems as long as the correct installation procedure is used. Despite the fact that Ford considers the bottom end of the 1.0 ECOboost to be unserviceable (the same applies to most other Ford engines so this is not strange at all) there is still quite some information available from 3rd party sources. Below some tightening torques I managed to obtain: Connecting rod cap bolts Stage 1: 8 Nm Stage 2: 12 Nm Stage 3: 18 Nm Stage 4: 35° Main bearing cap bolts Stage 1: 10 Nm Stage 2: 24 Nm Stage 3: 30 Nm Stage 4: 15°
  14. The symptoms you describe are common when the swirl flaps are stuck. When the swirl flaps are stuck in the position for high RPM's the engine feels gutless and underpowered at low RPM's The Duratec HE engines have swirl flaps inside the intake manifold. These swirl flaps modify the air flow within the intake manifold and have 2 positions. 1 position for low RPM's and 1 position for high RPM's. The swirl flaps are vacuum operated and controlled by the PCM using 2 actuators. Malfunction of the swirl flaps is a common problem on the Duratec HE engines. This can either be caused by a mechanical fault like the flaps being stuck, broken or even completely gone (sucked into the engine) or by an electrical fault like defective actuators.
  15. The CANbus network does not go to sleep with the door open. The CANbus network enters sleep mode approximately 20 to 40 minutes (depending on settings and options) after the car is locked. Until the CANbus network enters sleep all CANbus modules are active and consuming power.
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