JW1982

True Ford Enthusiast
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JW1982 last won the day on October 26 2018

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About JW1982

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Wilco
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK3 Champions Edition
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Car Modification

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  • Location
    The Netherlands

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  1. Unfortunately that is not possible on the Focus MK3/MK3.5 The Focus MK3/MK3.5 front fog lights are both powered by a single power supply from the BCM. This basically means that the BCM does not have the ability to swith the left front fog light and the right front fog light independently. If you want to use the front fog lights as static cornering lights you need at least some sort of control module that has the ability to switch the left front fog light and the right front fog light independently based on steering angle, vehicle speed and indicator activity. I am currently developing my own Arduino compatible CANbus controlled cornering light module. My module is connected to the CANbus network and has the ability to switch the left front fog light and the right front fog light independently based on steering angle, vehicle speed, indicator activity and position of the light switch. Apart from this the front fog light functionality also remains fully functional.
  2. The PCM is located behind the left hand front wing. To gain access the inner splash shield needs to be removed. The PCM is installed in a watertight plastic enclosure which can easily be opened by removing the screws. The PCM itself is secured by a mounting bracket (security bracket) which is attached by a shear bolt. Drilling is required to remove the shear bolt.
  3. You only need to change the PCM. After changing the PCM the keys need to be programmed and the PCM needs to be paired with the instrument cluster. This can easily be done with an ELM327 interface and the free Forscan software. Changing the PCM however is only possible if both engines are 100% identical and both PCM's have the same hardware and base software. To determine whether it is possible or not to change the PCM you should compare the hardware numbers of both PCM's.
  4. These pictures were posted on the Dutch Focusclub forum: The owner of this car had the Alloygators installed by a specialist. The alloygators were installed on stock wheels and tyres. 3 of the 4 Alloygators came loose within 1000 KM resulting in damage to the wheels and bodywork. When considering Alloygators it is very important to make sure that the wheels are suitible. This can easily be checked by inserting a small thin piece of plastic between the tyre and the rim edge. If the piece of plastic can be inserted 10 mm or more the wheels are not suitible. In this case there is simply not enough clamping force to clamp the Alloygators between the rim and the tyre which causes the Alloygators to come loose. Residual tyre grease or the usage of certain tyre dressings can also cause the Alloygators to come loose.
  5. I only say that alloygators are not suitible for every type of alloy wheel. There is nothing wrong with the concept of Alloygators but many of the larger original Ford wheels are simply not suitible for Alloygators. Alloygators can only be used if the shape of the rim edge meets the requirements. Alloygator has a simple tool to check this. If the shape of the rim edge does not meet the requirements the alloygators will not be clamped properly between the rim and the tyre and can easily come loose.
  6. Alloygators are not suitible for all of the original Ford wheels (especially the larger wheels). When Alloygators are installed on those wheels the Alloygators will damage the paint of the wheel and can even come loose and damage the bodywork of the car when they come off. There are several examples of this happening on original 18 or 19 Inch wheels. Most Alloygators were installed by (different) professional Alloygator suppliers so an installation fault can be ruled out.
  7. On The Focus MK3/MK3.5 Ford used interior lights with old fashioned bulbs for the lower spec. vehicles and interior lights with integrated SMD LED lights for the higher spec. vehicles. Apart from the different interior lights itself the wiring is also different. I suspect that being a Zetec (which is considered to be low spec.) your car has interior lights with old fashioned bulbs while the ST250 has interior lights with integrated SMD LED lights. If this is true the wiring harness that came with the headliner is not compatible with your car. In this case you either have to change the wiring harness or modify the wiring harness that came with the headliner to match the original wiring harness.
  8. These connectors are produced by TE Connectivity (formerly known as AMP) and are called "Superseal" connectors. The Original TE Connectivity Superseal Connectors can be found at specialized electronic stores and webshops (Conrad, Farnell, Mouser, etc.). Fully compatible Chinese copies can be found on Ebay and AliExpress.
  9. Changing the configuration can also brick a module very easily. Most problems however are caused by low battery voltage during diagnostics or lost communication connections caused by bad quality diagnostic interfaces. In most cases a bricked module can be recovered but this usually requires quite some skills/knowledge and the correct diagnostic tools to recover a non responding (bricked) module. The Forscan program is by far the best, most advanced freely available Ford specific diagnostic system. It is however not perfect. The support for the relative new Focus MK4 is pretty limited. It usually takes a few Years before a new model is fully supported and all known bugs are solved. You also have to be aware that Ford is currently transitioning to the online FRDS diagnostic system. On new Ford models programming and configuring of modules requires a (paid and verified) subscription. On the Focus MK4 for example Forscan did show and support some modules (like for example the APIM) on earlier build vehicles while on currently build vehicles these modules are no longer shown and supported. It will just be a matter of time before the offline programming (including the Ford IDS diagnostic system) will be discontinued completely.
  10. Part number 8S7T-19H449-DAB is an SD-card for the Travelpilot FX. This means that your car is a very late Focus MK2.5 The latest available (2019) SD-card for the Travelpilot FX has part number A66SX-9H449-FG
  11. Take the SD-card out of the SD-slot. There should be a number printed on the sticker on the SD-card. For the Focus MK3 (2011-2014) MFD satnav system the numbers are as follows: V1 = 2011 V2 = 2012 V3 = 2013 V4 = 2014 --> replaced by V4.1 after a very short period because of many known software bugs. V5 = 2015 V6 = 2016 V7 = 2017 V8 = 2018 V9 = 2019
  12. In case you want LED bulbs you can also search for H8 bulbs. H11 and H8 bulbs have exactly the same socket/fitment. The only difference is that H11 is 55 Watts and H8 is 35 Watts. H8 LED bulbs however are a bit more common than H11 LED bulbs. In my opinion the best looking way to install DRL onto a Focus MK2 is by installing combined fog/DRL lights. These are available from Osram and many Chinese manufacturers on Ebay/Aliexpress.
  13. As far as I know the Sky-Wing headlights that are produced by Eagle Eyes are LHD only. RHD versions are produced on request but do usually require a minimum of 50 sets. The LHD Sky-Wing headlights have a projector with a fixed LHD cutoff plate and can not be changed to RHD without modifications to the actual projector. I used HID bulbs for quite some Years in combination with the Sky-Wing headlights. I Always was very happy with both the light pattern and light output of these lights. However within the last Year the development of LED technology made great progress. Apart from the many rubbish cheap Chinese LED bulbs that are available there are also a few really good ones available. After one of my HID bulbs started flickering ocasionally I decided to do some extensive research and buy myself a set of H7 LED bulbs. Based on several reviews I ordered a set of H7 F3 LED bulbs from a Chinese seller. The LED bulbs arrived within a week. After I unboxed the LED bulbs I must say that I am quite impressed with the quality of these LED bulbs. All major parts are made of painted alumium and feel really solid. The F3 bulbs have a small fan cooled heatsink at the back of the bulb. The LED's itself are mounted on a special PCB (liquid heat-pipe) that is connected with the heatsink at the back of the bulb. The LED bulbs habe a small LED controller that should fit in about every headlight. The bulbs have a detachable socket plate. The socket plate can easily be installed into the H7 headlight socket. Next the bulb can easily be inserted and locked into the socket plate. The manufacturer of the bulbs prescribes to install the bulbs with the LED's horizontally. To achieve this the socket plate is adjustable and the bulb can be rotated inside the socket plate to obtain the correct position. Installation was very easy. There is more than enough space inside the headlights for the heatsink and the LED controller. No more hassle with wiring and HID ballasts outside the headlights. It took me less than 15 minutes to remove the headlights from the car, remove the HID kit, install the LED bulbs and install the headlights back into the car. Because my car is configured for "aftermarket HID" (which basically means that the lights are controlled by a steady battery voltage and the bulb check system of the dipped beam is switched off) there are no errors or warning messages. I must say that I am really impressed by the light output of the LED bulbs. Compared to the HID lights the light output of the LED bulbs is even better. The color of the LED light is bright white and very similar to the 5000K HID light is had before. The beam pattern of the LED lights is very good and very similar to the HID beam pattern. Be aware that in the Netherlands where I live HID / LED conversions are fully legal as long as the beam pattern is correct, the lights are correctly adjusted and the lights do not blind other traffic.
  14. This car has the "normal" 6-speaker High Level Ford audio system that is based on the old Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system. This is basically the same Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system that was used on the Focus MK2.5. It is definetely not a Sony 9-speaker or SYNC 1.0/1.1 based audio system.
  15. Active Park Assist has nothing to do with Active City Stop. The Active City Stop system has an infrared laser and 2 infrared receivers that are installed in the large window console behind the windshield. 1 and 2 = Laser and sensors for the Active City Stop system (only present if the car has Active City Stop). 3 = Camera needed for Lane Keeping Aid, Traffic Sign Recognition and Auto high beam (only present if the car has functionality that requires the camera). 4 = Light/rain sensor The Active City Stop is based on the reflection of the laser. The laser is constantly outputting a pulsed infrared laser beam. The reflection of the pulsed infrared laser beam on any obstacle in front of the car is detected by the sensors every 0,02 seconds. This way the system is able to detect the distance between the car and any stationary or moving object in front of the car. If the distance suddenly becomes smaller or the system suddenly detects a nearby obstacle the system will set up maximum brake force and wait for the driver to react. If the driver does not react (by applying the brakes) the Active City Stop system will apply the brakes automatically and generate a warning message on the instrument cluster display.