Blagger89

Members via Twitter
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Blagger89


  1. Sorry to bump but I have a disappointing update.

    Cars been on AutoTrader and eBay and failed to shift as yet. Had a few enquiries but people can't seem to understand that the cars not taxed and can't be driven away.

    Anyway, been keeping the car active and turning over the past 2 months with no issues and driven round the block a few times and its always seemed fine. However sometime in the past two weeks its officially shown signs of a HG blowout and the oil in the cap and dipstick is milky coloured.

    As I can't seem to shift it I'm going to start stripping the engine, and have a look at replacing the HG myself. Got my Haynes manual and plenty of spare time and its not like I can do any more damage, the cars bust as it is!

    What I want to know is how can I tell if the HG/Pistons are warped or need skimming. As the cars been fine running I'm hoping that nothing is warped as the previous HG failure the car refused to work and thats when it was warped previously and cost alot to repair!

    Any info on the process would be great!


  2. I dont think it would be a cracked block, like you said highly unlikely and I'd be pretty aware of it happening. Head Gasket? Could well be, I know I have a leaky valve cover gasket as I went to change the Spark Plugs and there was a little puddle of oil around each plug.

    It's up on ebay at the moment, if it doesn't sell, it's going on AutoTrader. If that doesn't shift it, I'll be looking at taking apart the engine top down to get to the head gasket and seeing the likely damage on that, if it doesn't require skimming (not sure if I'd know) I could quite happily buy the part and put it back together and revive the car.

    My other option is to shift it to a used car dealer and part ex it for another car (possibly an 04+ Focus model).


  3. Well the plot thickens. Put the new cap on this evening when i returned from my second job (car was parked at the garage next to my other job). Let it idle for 20 minutes while sorted some stuff out, then drove it back with heater on max and on max fans....got up to normal temperature and had no issues driving back even getting up to 50mph in 3rd. Revs all seem fine and no other ill behaviour. Will take radiator off tomorrow and try flushing that clear through, checking all hoses, and re-filling with fresh coolant. Will then run around the neighbourhood and see what happens from there on in.

    If it does persist, I'm picking up a 52k L reg 1.2 Corsa for £200 of a family friend to have as a go to car for work etc, and will slowly strip the engine off the focus and try to see if theres any damage.

    The mechanic said it looks like a head gasket failure or cracked block? But wouldn't confirm unless he took it all apart which is money I can ill afford to do as money is required for a working car to get to work. I will continue this as I just don't trust any garages in the area due to four previously not finding an oil leak on my car only for the engine to blow doing a ton on the motorway due to.....lack of oil!


  4. Got it back from garage today, failed a block test. Said that there was gas in the coolant which suggests head gasket gone or a crack in the engine block. Doesn't seem worth repairing so will be ringing a few scrappys to get some money for it.


  5. Righto, well I've got a new cap en route so tomorrow I'll pop that on and then try getting rid of the airlock. I've literally left it running for 20 minutes earlier and it doesn't seem to have budged. But then again, the cap does seem loose as there was a very faint hissing from the cap when I turned engine off.


  6. Afternoon, I do have a replacement cap on its way, should be with me tomorrow. Taking it to a garage round the corner to double check its not the Head Gasket. Once thats ruled out I will take off the radiator and try flushing that through.

    When idling with the fans on full and max heat I only get cold air, the hot doesn't kick in until I start driving it. The hose furthest to the right (when looking at engine) is normal temperature until driving then it goes hot. And the hose on the left stays normal when idling and gets a little warm after driving.

    I have read somewhere it could be the PCM needs recalibrating?


  7. I've had Head Gasket blow before, in 2009. Ended up having a new engine put in instead, since then ive done under 40,000 miles on it so I would hope that it hasn't gone. That, and RAC and I have checked for head gasket being blown and have no other visible signs. No white sludge in oil and no debris in the coolant which happened when it blew before. I'll check the water pump for a leak tomorrow/Tuesday but theres no signs of any leaks anywhere.


  8. Hey all,

    2002 51 plate 1.6 Zetec Focus here.

    Car was overheating and RAC came out and said thermostat has gone, so I've bought a new one and fitted that, checked the housing and it doesn't show any visible cracks.

    Still overheating and losing coolant (however it might be too watered down as I've done a few flushes over past few days) but showing no signs of any leaking.

    Took the thermostat out and back in today, and then left it idling for 20minutes with fans on showing no issues, then took it for a drive round the block for 15 minutes and the temp gauge jumped up again to red zone but no warning lights came on, then the fan kicked in and the temp gauge went back to normal.

    Opened the bonnet and the coolant is lower than when I topped it up however I suspect this is due to the water ratio being wrong and it evaporating off.

    Checked all the hoses and they seem all fine, and the expansion cap seems fine and no issues there.

    Anyone else got any ideas what I can look at before taking it to a garage? Ive ordered a new housing for the Thermostat and thats on its way

    Cheers for help in advance.


  9. Hey all,

    I have a 2002, 51 plate, 1.6 zetec hatchback.

    Its on 110,000 miles and had its MOT in May. No major issues other than an electrical fault.

    About a month after the MOT i started having a slight grinding sound when turning right at slow speeds, it wasn't all the time and as i had to go across gravel at my place at work i just presumed it was some gravel stuck within the brake area causing it.

    It went away for a while then came back when i didnt turn right as much, say, when the hands from 10&2 would be at 11 and 11&3. or 12&4.

    Over time its got to a point where it was occuring when turning left.

    I just drove it back home from Bournemouth and during the journey it was making a sound like a grinding noise when i was going forward, straight, left or hard right, the only time it wasn't making a grinding sound was when i would be steering only slightly to the right.

    It sounds like its coming from the right hand wheel well, but i was also passenger in my car and its sounds the same on the left side. I also have a lot more vibration coming through the steering wheel when its making the sound and can literally feel it getting worse or better as i turn the wheel in different directions. but only when travelling at more than 15mph. Any less and the sounds/grind only happens when in full locks.

    First off, what should i be looking for under the bonnet for signs of wear to rule out some options, what could it be? I'm thinking/hoping its the wheel bearings as a friends dad says if it is he'll do them for free for me.

    Due to the age of the car it could be CV joint? Steering rack? Drive shaft?

    I'm not too sure.

    Also, is there anything wrong with taking it to a garage and getting them to have a look so I can get a quote and then just weighing up whether to scrap the car.

    The body work is pretty damaged but the engine itself (although the car has done 110k) has only done 40k, the clutch is less than 10,000 miles old, brakes and tyres are less than 10,000 miles, shocks are all under 10,000 and the fuel pump got replaced 25,000 ago. So not sure what I could even get for it. I paid £1500 for a new engine to be put in so with 40,000 on the clock (motorway driving) i would say anywhere around 5-800 would be reasonable?

    Any advice would be great, cheers!


  10. Thanks for the swift reply, the 2nd ebay link comes with the fob and blank key blade so i'll purchase that as i can't find the T number anywhere for the first link.

    So once purchased I could effectively take to Timpsons and get them to copy the blade on my spare key which is in near perfect condition, then reprogramme.

    Sounds easy enough.

    Cheers!


  11. Hey all. I'm new here cause I'm a little bit confused from browsing google and other sites.

    My 2002 Ford Focus Zetec came with 2 keys, one remote fob with the 3 buttons, and a standard key.

    My main remote key is pretty worn and won't open the bonnet now, and takes alot of effort to turn the ignition, so without me causing any further damage to the ignition barrel i've started using my spare key. Not an issue.

    I want to get a new spare key, preferably a remote fob and i've been reading that i can buy a key and can programme it myself to use the central locking and then programme the immobiliser. However, it states that I need at least 2 working keys.

    I am understanding this as two remote keys, if not, then this is perfect and I hopefully can get a new remote keyand programme them myself without having to go to the dealer and paying £100+.

    I have attached a picture of my keys as I've read theres blue chip and red chips and its boggled my mind.

    If anyone can offer any advice that would be great!

    post-33829-0-59495500-1338565936_thumb.j