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    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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  1. Hi Can anyone confirm whether front n/s wheel hub from a 1.6 TDCI Estate is the same as on the 1.8 TDCI Hatch? Is this a common part over a number of models/variants? C-Max etc? Cheers
  2. Thanks for the replies. Got recovered last night, AA man stuck a new battery in and followed me home. Got 5 miles down the road, warning lights again, power steering failing. Turns out that the alternator was a direct short, and was very hot indeed - the partnumber sticker is black and partially melted. Disconnected it and it was fine after. Gave up on the power steering fuse idea, there's no way I could adequately manoeuver the stationary car, I would challenge Hafthor Bjornsson to park with no assist! Picking up a new (recon) alternator today, fitting doesn't look too bad, just need to de-tenion belt and remove A/C comp.
  3. Went to the car at lunchtime, started it up, sounded a bit "whirry" not loud though, then alternator light came on, whirring noise stopped. Drove for about 20 minutes, including one stop, starter motor sounded fine and restarted. Was not using any electrical accesories or lights. Drove again for about 15 minutes (most of which was in solid crawling traffic), then started getting ABS warning light, check engine warning light, power steering failed. Battery now drained too much to turn starter motor. Have booked a recovery for when I finish work at 4. Will test later to see if it's a belt or actual alternator issue. So I was wondering, hypothetically speaking, if the battery is good and is fully charged up but the alternator is not charging nor providing power, if I removed the power steering fuse (which I suspect is the biggest drain) would it hold enough charge for a couple of 30 minute trips with a single start at each end? Or would it be likely that the other electrical systems would drain the battery in this time?
  4. Hi I have a problem with my brakes fading/just not stopping sharply The problem has been around for a few weeks (starting literally 3 days before my MOT) and in that time the car actually passed its mot with nothing said about the brakes. Tbh I was expecting it to fail due to the brakes, but it didn't. I had the MOT and Service done at a main Ford dealer, all I got back on the job sheet was "brake fluid boiling temperature too low" and a cost to replace the brake fluid. So here's the problem. Normal driving pootling around town the brakes feel fine. I wouldn't say 100% but 95%. However, if you have to brake heavily or unexpectedly, for the first second or so the brakes stop sharply, but after that they just fade off and the car comes gradually to a halt, this could be anything up to about 5 seconds to actually completely stop. The brake pedal feels ok to start with, but then very hard after about an inch of pedal depression. In fact it's probably too hard to push any further after that. It's not spongy at all, but if you repeatedly stamp on the brake pedal hard you do get more stopping effort. The day before the MOT, the car had 4 new tyres fitted and the fitter said that the pads were low, and the discs below manufacturer recommended limit. When I explained the "brake fade" problem I had been experiencing for the previous couple of days they said that the brakes were getting too hot, and that I should have new discs and pads all round, which I did. However, the problem was exactly the same after the new pads and discs were installed but there was no more time to investigate, so I put the car in for its MOT expecting it to fail. As mentioned above it didn't. So I have now replaced the brake fluid with 5.1 as the "boiling point" issue mentioned after the service seemed to make sense with the brakes fading and also replaced the 2 rear calipers as the nipple stripped the thread on one and wouldn't re-tighten sufficiently on the other! The brakes were bled properly but the problem persists. I am now left wondering what else it could be. The master cylinder seems fine, there's no classic symptom of the pedal creeping to the floor. So I can only assume it's vacuum related. I've checked the pump and that's sucking fine, and the non return valve only works in one direction as it should. This now leads me all the way back to the servo unit. I suspect that it's not holding it's vacuum. However I am getting no sound of a breach as I can't hear any hissing of air ingress spoiling the vacuum and if have the engine running and then switch the ignition off and push the brake pedal down, I do get (only) one "whoosh" as the pedal is depressed but then the pedal is rock hard again. According to the Haynes manually it should be 4 or 5 pushes with accompanying whooshes until the vacuum is depleted. Also, if I pull the vacuum tube off I do get a little whoosh so there must be some vacuum in there, right? I'd really be grateful to get some advice on this. Has anyone had the same experience? Basically I've started at the wheel to diagnose the problem and now got all the way back to the servo, so the problem can only be on this side, can't it? The car has cost me around £900 in the last month (4 tyres, discs, pads, full alignment, calipers, service, MOT etc) and I just need it sorted now!!! Thanks :-)
  5. Remote Key Fob Disarm

    Any ideas.... My remote key fob works great from a distance, like 5-20 metres, but close up it's a right pain to get the central locking/alarm to disarm. Standing next to the car, I can walk all the way around it and keep pressing the button and it won't open, but walk away from the car again and once I get a few metres away it will open. It's very annoying! Battery has been replace. Is there like and aerial or something on the control box that receives the signal? Ta
  6. Fitted the EGR blanking plate and I it appears to have done the trick. Thanks for the advice!
  7. Thanks for the EGR idea. I gather it's a popular mod with benefits anyway, so definitely worth doing. I've brought one from eBay, will fit this weekend.
  8. Thanks for the reply. Yes that was my concern that it could be any number of things rather than something definitive. Didn't want to go down the route of trying this, that and the other to see "is it any better?". In answer to your questions: No more smoke than usual. Annual service is due in July (approx 7K since last service). I believe that the fuel filter was changed at the last service, but I would need to check the job sheet to confirm this. I do tend to stay below 3500rpm, so will give it some beans when the opportunity arise on the way home.
  9. Hi I have what is really just an annoyance at the moment, but wondering if anyone knows what might be causing it as it would be nice to resolve! I have an early 2006 1.8 TDCi, and the problem is that when I pull up at a junction (for example) and then go to pull away after being stationery for a few seconds, the engine does not react to the accelerator peddle being pressed and I nearly stall. Prime example would be when I pull up, stop and then someone immediately flashes to let me out, I press the accelerator and start letting the clutch out and there's no more revs than tickover, so I have to wait a couple of seconds and then the revs kick in. If I have been stationery for say 10 seconds it will be fine, so it's only when I have just stopped and literally go to pull away again. Not seeing any other issues except for a flattish spot around 1500-1700 rpm where it feels a bit hesitant and jerky at times, but I suspect this is roughly where the turbo kicks in. Mileage is around 75,000. Any thoughts?
  10. Speakers Dead Down Right Hand Side

    Thanks Artscot will give that a try.
  11. Speakers Dead Down Right Hand Side

    Thanks for the prompt reply Stoney. I am pretty sure that all is OK at the plug end - I suppose I could do a continuity test from the pin to the speaker terminal... The other thing I have not yet tried is taking the door cards of and checking that the speakers are actually plugged in still. Might be a schoolboy error, but the chances of both front woofer and tweeter and the rear speaker being unplugged are pretty remote. I suppose I am asking whether anyone knows if the speaker part of the loom has any connectors in it or does the wire run straight from plug to speaker with no interruptions? For example, I assume that the front right splits in two to supply signal to the woofer and tweeter.
  12. Hi Bought a 56 Focus last year and since the outset the speakers have been dead down the right side of the car - both front and rear, woofers and tweeters. I assumed that the right channel had blown in the standard head unit. Today I replaced the head unit with my old Pioneer one which I know works fine. However, the right side speakers are still silent. All the wires are plugged in at the connector and there are no signs that the wiring is damaged or been interfered with. I know that in the history of the car, the entire dashboard was removed by Ford due to a problem with the aircon or something, and the previous owner (who had it from new) said that the speakers on the right had been dead for years. I wonder if there is a connector of something in the loom that never got reconnected when the dashboard was removed. So if there is anyone out there who has experience of the speaker part of the loom and can shed some light on this, it'd be greatly appreciated - I'd rather not have to run new speaker wiring if at all possible. Cheers Paul
  13. Welcome to the Ford forums H22A :)