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Everything posted by FOCA

  1. the reason you did not get a spark is there was no potential difference between the two batteries when they are both fully charged - one would have to be flat(ter) than the other to get a spark If you change the fuel filter it can be difficult to restart the engine after that - filling the filter up with diesel halps, it can take some cranking to bleed the system, the battery can go flat by the time the engine is ready to start, short bursts of cranking are not effective in bleeding and very lomg bursts can burn out the starter- assuming it has additional electrical power as well as the cars battery (there is a knack to it) replacing "service" items is ok (filters etc) but you really need to find out what is wrong, it can be a mistake to jump to conclusions a code OBD reader can help find faults and van pay for itself quickly - you will need an OBD1 one for a TDDI TDDIs are Euro 3 so you can fit a solid EGR blanking plate with no problem (eliminating one source of potential problems)
  2. On a diesel engine they only do a smoke (particulate) test, so you can decat ok and still pass this test (petrol engined cars are a different matter) But there is also a visual inspection, on some cars you cannot see the cat/ decat (due to undertrays/ engine covers etc) so a decat pipe can be fitted ok, on others, where the cat is more visible, it may be nessesary to remove the inside of the original cat, to decat the cat as carbon can sit in/on the surfaces of the cat, it can actually increase smoke, so removing it can reduce smoke (along with things like a solid EGR plate) As well as a dacat/ cat innard removal you may need to remove/ upgrade the exhaust back box, as this can be restrictive (it can restrict flow more than the cat) - so no point in just doing the cat without upgrading the back-box too
  3. It looks like the turbo actuator - could be the VNT vanes sticking, as abave (causing a "knock on" effect) A 2006 car TCDI should have an electronic actuator these can be expensive to fix (again, the VNT vanes should be cleaned/ working correctly before replacing the actuator) the boost hoses may be leaking but also check all your fluids as it may be coming from elsewhere but looks like its from the hoses where exactly is the leak?
  4. Its the DPF you need to heat up - not the inside of the car! Any performance increase may be due to the DPF unblocking rather than a the remap Remaps can be done specifically to increase bottom end power, on some diesels the bottom end power/ torque is restricted to help put less strain on the DMF (dual mass flywheel) mant remappers simply increase the fuelling so the remap "follows" the original map and the "low down restriction" is still in place - a better/ more expensive remap is more sophisticated and can increase bottom end but you may need to strengthen the transmission to cope with the extrabottom end torque A tuning box often increases bottom end power/ torque more than a remap A DPF delete can reduce turbo lag by allowing the turbine to spool up quicker - along with back box delete and decat can make a big difference , (as well as a free- flowing exhaust, as lenny has suggested)
  5. That is complete and utter garbage - EGR valves reduce power/ cause flat spots you dont get better boost from them, but worse boost, the EGR valve reduces the energy going to the turbine (part of the turbo system) so fitting a solid EGR plate helps increase the energy going to the turbine, thus reducing lag/ turbo spoolup time and improving throttle response - as may forum members can confirm from actual practical experience In general, total peak boost stays the same (with/ without EGR/ plate) as this is controlled by the actuator etc Sounds like a complete sharlitan who has taking your money but does not know what he is talking about If you have an underlying fault (like a blocked DPF) it can stop the engines power increasing with the remap, though
  6. Fiesta/ trim models and insuranceare not my area of expertese but - In any given engine size (eg 1.3L) there are different trim levels, the car itself is basically identical (eg, same shell etc) but there is more stuff stuck on the ghia trim for example some trim levels are in the factory (eg,Popular, Popular Plus, L, LX, Ghia, 1.6S, XR2i, RS Turbo, RS1800, Fiesta, Louisiana, LA, DL, SX, Azura, Si, Classic, Classic Quartz, Classic Cabaret, Saphire) Some were "specials" that were done in the dealers, usually to boost flagging sales (typically a couple of "extras" thrown in and a badge stuck on the tailgate) Apart from dealers sticking extra kit on, owners may have retrofitted kit as well The "base" model is usually the lowest or most basic available, perhaps the person that made out the log book put "base" (for base model) instead of "L" "LX" "popular" etc What does it say on the bootlid? Of course, when it comes to insurance, you must be careful
  7. Hi thanks for that! The breather still expells hot gasses / some oily spray even without the inlet sucking it in - the main difference is the engine does not re ingest it As the engine geats up there is some expansion of gasses (mainly air) in the crankcase, as well as some piston blow- by (depending on the age/ amount of wear on the engine + the amount of boost) as the pistons move up and down there is some to-and-throw-ing in the breather, and it can make a "chuffing" noise as this happens The main purpose of the breather is to de-pressurize or stop the pressure from building up in the crankase, so it does not matter if the inlet does not suck the gunge out Ive still got the car, its MOTd and taxed and i use it a fair bit, its "restricted" a bit to get a bit less bottom end power but more mid/ top end and its even lighter than it was, ive got a load of parts ive not fitted yet and i have a few other ideas life is a distraction/ gets in the way, though ive so little time and i cant really justify spending money on it (apart from essentials like tyres/ MOT stuff etc)- might wait untill spring now
  8. But - its not a Ford! I always think VWs are as over-rated as much as Fords are under-estimated
  9. When we are talking about decats we have to be careful not to get mixed up with petrol and diesel engines - Most diesel engines have a small, passive cat, there is no sensor, (no wires, no EML) the cat can be completely removed and the car can still easily pass the emmisions MOT test, as only particulates are measured on a diesel, diesel Ford owners have run decats for years, and passed several MOTs, no problem, recently the rules have tighened up, now there is to be a visual inspection, so it must look like there is a cat present, on many cars you cannot see if there is one or not, as there is an engine cover at the top, and an undertray on the bottom (the tester cannot remove covers) in this case as long as the (diesel) car can pass the particulates (smoke) test its ok - as carbon can build up on the surface of the cat, often a decat reduces smoke On cars where the cat is visible it can be cut open and the innards removed - many Ford owners have done this and passed the MOT no problem (as above, it may even help reduce smoke, especially in conjunction with a solid EGR plate ) in tests, it was found the back- box was more restictive than the cat (diesel mk3 mondeo 2.0 &2.2, other turbo-diesels are similar) On a petrol engined car its a different matter the presence of a cat may be detected by the emissions - and it may be diffucult to get the car running right and the emissions low enough to pass an MOT - in this case a high flow sports cat is probably the best way to go for a modern, petrol-engined road car
  10. All the parts look expensive - http://shop.grahamgoode.com/fiesta-st180-ecoboost-air-induction-silicone-hose-ggf5001-72102-p.asp
  11. It may be possible to connect the inverter directly to the battery - theoretically it only needs 2 wires + and - (i would use heavy duty cable) , it could run through the firewall (scuttle?) this has the advantage if being seperate from the vans' existing wiring - you could add a suitable inline fuse close to the battery
  12. The engines are phisically the same and the difference is in the factory engine map it is possible to buy a 100PS version and have it remapped to about 135 - 140HP the 100PS is good anyway
  13. Fit a panel filter (K&N, pipercross or green cotton) and smooth out the inside of your existing airbox do you want to make more noise, increase power or both? is your car an NA st150PS or the later turbo st180?
  14. jeebowhite has done a guide with links to sellers - http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/tutorials/article/116-got-an-error-on-your-car/
  15. If you had the chance to rewind time and not spend the money on the 1.25 and just buy an ST (or similar) instead - is that what you would have done? In my view you really need the car to have something very special for all the hassle - only just being as quick as an ST is hardly worth it - it needs serious power like a Focus mk2 5-pot (225ps stock and about 260Hp with just a remap) or take it up to RS spec or above (350+Hp) You will have seen the 700+Hp evo-engined fiesta - http://www.fiestaturbo.com/feature-cars/720bhp-fiesta-evo/ No point in mucking about with sub-200hp engines when you could have just bought an ST
  16. Dump valves (another name for Blow Off Valves ) dont work on diesel engines, as there are no throttle butterflies on diesels - they just loose boost If you most have the hiss sound when you change gear you can get fake ones that just make the noise - good news is you can switch them off!
  17. My personal opinion is its not worth the money (£400-£450) for the small power gain (if its under 10% its reconed you wont notice ) the actual gain is not claimed but it says 140Hp on the pumaspeed website (miltek + map) and Superchips claim 138 so on that basis its 2Hp (but the Superchips dyno may be different and seems to read higher than some others) i would doubt you will see a 5hp gain and you really need +13 Hp to notice a significant difference Its typical of NA (naturally asperated/ non turbo) to see very small gains So if your exhaust is in good condition its probably not worth it - if you need to replace your exhaust it may be worth getting the miltek though, as its stainless, and the tailpipe will look good - just dont expect big gains PS - a high-flow (sports) cat and manifold (you can heat-wrap the manifold/ downpipe for a little bit extra gain) may be nessesary to get the most out of the exhaust - again, quite expensive for realatively small gains on an NA engine
  18. There are many reasons why it might do this - one is the VNT vanes are sticking, causing the actuator to not control the boost correctly leading to too much boost, the ECU detects this exessive boost and triggers limp home mode to protect the engine Best to get the codes read/ invest in an OBD code reader to help find out what is wrong before spending money you dont need to
  19. it may have an 88 or 92 degree (centigrade) thremostat so that temp is not exessive and normal, the pressurized system allows the coolant to operate above 100 degrees C without boiling (typically 110 degrees C) Coolant/ antifreeze may raise the boiling point - i converted my Mondeo to an electric pump, and used coolant that boils at a much higher temp, that allowed a de-pressurized system (to put the seals and expensive racing pumpn under less strain) Designers and engineers set the operating temperature as a compromise between performance, economy, reliability and other factors The optimum tempeature for economy, may not be optimum for performance, for example, fleet truck operators in America replaced thermostats with a higher operating temp and achieved better MPG, in their diesel trucks, drag racing cars often have lower temp thermostats fitted On your car, the engines computer (ECU) monitors the temp (often the temp of the engine head itself, rather than the coolant) and if it gets too hot it may compensate for this or even restrict or shut down the engine to protect it
  20. People change, move on / grow up - the Fiesta is fine for a single guy but not so practical for a couple with dogs etc owning a powerful Focus ST estate will (perhaps more than) help compensate for this and is probably the best way to go for you now I would imagine you would miss the Fiesta but the Focus ST estate can be a lot of fun as well.
  21. Can you confirm that it is a mk4 Mondeo please? and the PS rating of the engine
  22. A split in a boost hose may not seem enough to cause serious problems, but - if there is a leak in the pressurised side of the turbo/ inlet, (between the compressor outlet and the inlet manifold, including thye inlet manifold & gaskets, intercooler, sensors and hoses/ sensors etc connected to the boost hoses) - boost pressure will be lost/ reduced its like when you are pumping up a tyre with a bad leak in it, no matter how hard you pump, you cannot reach or maintain the desired pressure - in the same way, the turbo/ ECU/ boost control system(s) try to reach the nessesary boost pressure, but because of the leak, this is not achieved - this can have the effect of the turbo being "on" the whole time, it can get hotter than normal, and it can spin faster than normal, in extreme cases, (turbo) components can fail from too many (turbo - the turbo compressor, turbine shaft / bearing revving too much - the engine may be at normal revs) revs and/ or or too much heat Also, the engine runs on diesel, and air, it is the oxegen in the air that causes combustion, if there is a leak in a boost pipe there will not be enough air, so too much diesel or too rich - this is what causes the black smoke at lower revs, downhill, under a light load the engine may run ok/ as normal, this is because the engine works like an NA (naturally asperated/ non turbo) in these conditions (before the turbo spools up) at heavier loads, (hard acceleration/ high speed uphill etc) the engine is "expecting" more air that does not come this can "choke" the engine, stopping it from revving, the engine may also try to protect itself by limiting power/ revs or inducing "limp home"("limp" for short) mode - this is to allow you to "limp home" at lower power/ revs its a "stich in time" thing, apart from the potential damage to the turbo core, the exessive soot can coke up DPFs, cats and VNT mechs, fuel economy can suffer (as well as performance, obviously) Best to get the hose replaced ASAP Ford will charge you a fortune and it will probably be a rubber part, you could probably get a (better) silicone one cheaper - speak to Stoney, a forum member that runs a 1.8 Focus, i bet he will know the best place to get these hoses Its worth investing in an OBD code reader this can save a lot of money in the long run, i would do the "service" items like air filter, fuel filter, + oil / filter change before buying replacement components you might not need I recommend fitting a solid EGR blanking plate - car will run better with this if you are used to the ST you might find yourself trying to rev the diesel too high - peak power is at about 4k - no point in revving it higher than that (once its sorted) power curve http://www.mybluefin.co.uk/curves/Focus18TDCi115ps.pdf the 1.8 diesel (even when its working well) will feel very slow compared to the ST, the bluefin is realatively expensive at £323 but makes big difference to the power/ torque, and the way it drives, transforms the car/ makes driving less of a chore, in my opinion
  23. I know someone that took the bump stops off completely and the car still passed its MOT
  24. off the top of my head it is 41 front and 35 rear (due to the weight of the engine) even at that, the front tyres can look underinflated/ soft there are different pressures for "normal" use (whatever that is) and heavily laden / high speed I run (it took a long time to arrive at these pressures) 40 rear 39 front on 205/55/16s this is for better economy (its a hypermiling technique) and i like the feel of them like that,(makes it predictable on the limit) i corner hard and i dont like motorways, so the middle part of the tyre does not wear out 1st - the ride is a bit harsher too at these pressures - it may not suit everyone PS - i dont recommend 41 PSI in the front for normal use/ for most people - but the mk3 diesel really needs 36 + psi in the front in my opinion - i had a look around the net and many are recommending recommended + 3 PSI
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