True Ford Enthusiast
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About BOF

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    Too much time on the boards

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  1. 41 is not a lot of ampere-hours these days, with all the electrical kit in a modern car, which you seem to have added to (and it isn't clear from what you write how they are wired). incidentally Tayna list a Varta C6 for 59.97 plus deliv (and also the Bosch S5001 which is the probably the same battery but more expensive) and that has 52Ah 520 CCA and a 5Yr guarantee. This is probably your fundamental problem. You probably are not fully charging the battery. Did you ensure that the battery was at 12.5 volts or more before it was fitted? You probably have to ether make the time to take the car on a longer journey or put it on a battery charger, eg, overnight otherwise you will always struggle.
  2. A few minutes? While the system can be over-cautious that sounds like a fault. Could be battery on its way out or could be that the battery isn't getting fully charged. Do you have any voltages?
  3. Probably any connection that might be disturbed when changing the filter during a service; ie by the filter itself.
  4. No fluid for the DPF; you are probably thinking of an 'Addblue' type system which this isn't. For oil most people use ether the Ford-branded oil or the Castrol GTX Magnatec to the appropriate Ford spec although my preference (and I don't really know why) has been Mobil Super 3000 Formula F (although it is no longer so cheap from Halfords as it was).
  5. The advice from Varta (produced in the same Johnson Controls factories as Bosch and very similar if not identical batteries) is not to fit a new battery until it has been charged up to at least 12.5 volts.
  6. BOF

    Tyre time.

    You are quite difficult to help. You don't say what size your tyres are and you don't say what you want from them except that you don't want to pay too much for them. "blackcircles Quality Choice tyres" are probably whatever budget tyres they think that can get good money for and will be different in each different size and possibly even from week to week. In context then all I can say is that you would probably prefer XL tyres to non-XL tyres.
  7. Well that's connected but it is an effect not a cause. You are using the right oil aren't you (although this only really causes cold start problems)? For the clutch (etc) problems if you can clean up the crankshaft position sensor and things improve (for a while) then that is a good clue. Unfortunately it s a good clue that the clutch/dpf s shedding material and is probably towards the end of it life. In some cases a similar thing happens wth the pinion on the starter motor picking up (technical term, here) crud and slowing down engine cranking. If the fuel line to the fuel filter has an air leak that also cause simethiing similar as you have to re-prime the filter before it starts. Often this is helped by turning the ignition on for ~ten seconds, off for a short while, back on for ten seconds, off for a short while, and only then trying to start. This can also work if the glow plug doesn't stay on for long enough (and the glow plug on times look a little short to me...but they should work).
  8. You are right that both exist and the 'efficient grip' is the older design. 'Performance' doesn't cover all the sizes that the older efficient grip did, so you don't necessarily have a choice.
  9. Drn the page that you ln "This tyre has been replaced by the Falken ZIEX ZE914 EcoRun" Eco always makes me a bit suspicious as it is often a sign that the manufacturer has gone a long way down the 'poor wet grip/lasts a lifetime' route. That said the newer Falken Azenis FK510 has had good reviews. No, but I do know about the Brav 2's. Barum is owned/part owned by Continental and they make very decent budget tyres. The 2's are a bit noisy when fitted at the back (actually a lot noisy on certain road surfaces and on the back of a Mondeo but fine at the front) but are otherwise similar to a 'poor man's SportContact 3'. The production qualty is very good - well above average - but the tyre design does not have the sophistication of some. I'm confused about the difference between the HM and non-HM (High Mileage...but what actually changes???) versions, but I'd still bet on these being a decent budget option. Another tyre that has received good comments is the Firestone RoadHawk (and exactly none of the earlier Firestones). BrIdgestone/FIirestone have taken a step forward with their latest designs. User comments on wear seem below average but some of those comments seem to have been made before the tyre was actually released... Hankook are always good for a well-priced option and don't forget the Nokian Z-LIne. I've had the Goodyear Efficient Grips and can't say I was all that impressed.They are not available in XL (which is my preference because of sidewall stiffness and on a Mondeo...well, its a heavy lump) they don't grip as well as an F1 assy 2 don't really last longer and they are more expensive. And the F1 assy 3 is improved from the 2. And they are a bit delicate...maybe an XL version would be better but you can't buy that. Or a tenner cheaper would gve them an advantage over an F1 Assy 3. If you did want a Goodyear group tyre (and they do tend to be good on fuel economy) and the F1 assy 3 is too much for you a Fulda SportControl 2 might do the trick.
  10. It is quite plausible that if you have fumes under the bonnet they only get into the cab when stationary. I had something similar when my injectors were leaking.
  11. That's the 'Ford Service' which does still include the mobility insurance. The over four years 'Motorcraft' service - which is the cheaper one - doesn't as far as I can tell - although there seems to have been the possibility of negotiating or paying an admin fee for it, although that may have just been a transitional arrangement.
  12. If you liked the PC5 you'll probably like the PC6 even more and they are only a couple of quid more if you shop around. Maybe there is something more suitable for you but you don't say what you want.
  13. These are probably mostly unrelated to the advisories. The const velocity gaiter needs doing before it does allow grit in because that wll destroy the CV joint after a while and increase the expense. generally though this doesn't cause a screeching unless it is very severely gone and it would be worse when you go round corners in one direction. Brakes can screech but it generally does change depending on whether you are braking or not. Something else that does screech is a slipping drive belt. This does sound horrendous and isn't the most serious thing in the world (you can drive with it for a while) but the charging of the electrical system will be a bit limited. Usually the cure involves cleaning the affected belt (if eg oil has leaked on to it) or tightening the belt. Eventually the belt could need replacing but that doesn't happen much these days. This could be related to the oil leak of course but may not be; it is also usually worse shortly after starting (and may go away if you blip the throttle) when you have high electrical loads and when the weather is wet. If the mechanic genuinely said 'axle grease' you can stop trusting him straight away. As implied earlier it should be specialist brake grease either 'copper grease' or 'ceramic grease' although I suspect that it isn't brakes at all causing the noise unless it depends on braking. The engine check light is a bit worrying; is a service overdue? What about the oil level (partic with the leak)?
  14. I have to say that when mine went at 115k, I swore. Get it done.