mokes

Budding Enthusiast
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About mokes

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Tim
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 automatic
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Somerset

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  1. Ok, so neither are for steering wheel control then. Odd though as I'm sure that one of the small connectors only has two wires in it? (Brown/yellow and black/white.) I'll take the cowling off the steering column and try to trace the wires back. Bit of a moot point at the moment though as the unit is faulty.
  2. Well, after wiring up the speakers it would appear that this unit is rubbish. The sound is not as rich/clean as the stock Ford unit and the volume goes up in large steps, not gradually. After a point it suddenly jumps to such a high volume that the speakers distort. Utter *****.
  3. Had an old ISO connector knocking around so I got the wires and pins off of it to allow me to populate the rather lacking quadlock adaptor. Now I have power, acc, dimming without cutting into any wires on the car. Seems all the other wires in the car side of the quadlock are for canbu ( 2x wires), radio keycode ( 1 x wire- dont need that now) and alarm (1 x wire). Still got to work out how to get the steering wheel controls to work, I think that is the 2 x wires in the small connector on the quadlock? (Brown/yellow and black/white.) The other small connector on yhe quadlock is for the aux input, which I wont be able to use, but you can buy a 'usb to 3.5mm female adaptor' and as this unit has 2 x usb 'fly leads', I'll still have one free.
  4. Ok, got my new Android unit and bought a quadlock connector/adaptor to splice into rather than into the original wiring. That was the plan anyway. Got the Ford unit out and looking at the quadlock, there are a great many wires in there that do not have a matching connection on the adaptor or to the new unit. Ford wiring diagrams on the web differ immensely, so not much help. Lots mention canbus adaptors but the Chinese seller assures me that I just connect key 1 and 2 to make steering controls work? The speaker wiring side is ok, I can work that out, but steering wheel control (key 1 and 2?) the glovebox aux input and some other wires on the quadlock that are a mystery to me as to their purpose have got me stumped. I didnt want to start cutting into the vehicle harness, but seems there is no other way. I dont think the glovebox aux input is ever going to work either as there is no means of making a connection to the new unit. Maybe its just me? Key 1 and 2 for example, what on earth does that mean? Just wondering if I should have spent more and got plug and play?
  5. Ok, cheers. Most seem to be lacking the cd player, but then that leaves more room for the cables.😀 I gather that I can buy a wiring harness that will plug into the cars harness connector. Then as you say, I need to join these wires to the relevant wires on the harness connected to the unit. Saves cutting into the vehicle wiring. Just got to choose one now.
  6. I'm looking get an Android HU so that I have SatNav, music etc on tap rather than plugging in my phone. I would prefer one with a cd player as I have loads, but really what I'm looking for is opinions from members that have got one. Easy to install? Do I need SatNav or would it be able to use/download apps like Herewego ( its basically an Android tablet in the dash isnt it?)
  7. I did see a couple of Ford 'ex stock' ones on Ebay but the belts were wrong size. They had some bits in with them so in hindsight I could have bought them and then the belts elsewhere. 🙄
  8. Small crowbar/flat blade screwdriver will do the job to some degree. The extra problem is wth a/c models, there are two pulleys mounted piggyback at the crank. This introduces an angle to the belt on install which makes it slip off the water pump pulley. The trick is stopping the belt slipping off the water pump pulley at the very end just as the belt appears to be going on. That's when you need to be able to hold/push the belt onto this pulley whilst turning the crank. Focus, a good guide but relies on having the special kit to do it
  9. Usually there is an idler pulley, to take up the belt tension, but these stretchy belts are a stupid idea designed to give work to dealers I suspect. Not sure how they told you they didnt 'align' it properly. It's either put on properly or not. No need to 'align' anything as far as I know? What year is your car, as they didnt always use stretchy belts? Last time I did a belt was on my Qashqai, a breeze. Even easier was my old 5 series. 5 minute job. Mostly due to them having sprung tensioner (idler) pulleys.
  10. Hi all. No idler pulley on these cars. The smooth puley, I would say is the water pump but I thought that was driven by the cambelt? No tools with mine, I tried to buy a Ford kit with them in it but was told they don't do them anymore and even the mechanic said they use a flat blade screwdriver! What I did in the end was remove the bolt from the top of the alternator and the nut from the top also (there are two fixings on the top.). Then slacken off the bolt under the alternator ( which was already very loose). This then gave the SLIGHTEST movement which with brute force, swearing whilst turning the crank with a long ratchet eventually it went on. All the time putting pressure against the belt thats around the water pump pulley to stop it slipping off. A two man job really, unless you have long arms which apparently I do. It was not sitting on the alternator pulley correctly due to the alternator being slightly loose, but I kept turning the crank and it moved into the grooves. There is one fixing on the top of the alternator that is a threaded rod, which I left in place as it stops the alternator from moving too much. It then allowed me to simply replace the nut onto it, then the long bolt and then tighten the lower bolt. Top tip for anyone doing this job....don't.
  11. I'm changing both the drive belts on my Focus and although they came off OK, but with some effort, getting the main one on ({for the PAS and alternator) is not working. I bought the Laser stupid special tool, which is rubbish and I dont think it works on the crankshaft double pulley set up. The problem is getting the belt to stay on the smooth pulley, it slips off right as you think its worked. There seem to be other tools available, such as the Gates special tool (which works wonders when the engine isn't actually in the car) but thats not an option at the moment, I need to get the car back together today. The alternator has no adjustment either.
  12. Wish I had the time. If it's a profit then ok, but seems like a lot of effort. Also, if I received a parcel from Amazon, having bought it from ebay, I'd be suspicious. Then, when I looked at Amazon and saw how cheap it was, I'd be plain irritated. 😳 This particular occasion annoyed me more because I specifically chose 'nearest' seller so I could get it today if possible. Chinese seller with a UK base would be ok but this was clearly coming from China...by donkey it seems.
  13. Just a silly post, due to finding more and more items on ebay that are not where they claim to be. Today, looking for a couple of struts for the rear hatch, I found a pair that I could easily go and collect and it would be job done. Otherwise it was a ridiculous delivery time for an item that was 10 miles away. Location listed as Bristol........Flat 19, BLK C,2/F, 65 Tung Tau Wan Road, Stanley, default default, 香港 Must be one of those new build estates.
  14. I'm changing the belts soon as tgey screech and squeal a lot, almost metallic sounding, especially on full lock. Reading what youre saying, I wondered if the noise was maybe not the belts but the pump. Kept it on full lock and trickled some water on the belts...all quiet. I will be checking the water pump when I do the belts though. Just got to get some green stuff now, but not looking forward to stiff steering.
  15. So your 100% sure its green then? Assuming the stuff in there now is original, would it be so bad to use red apart from the longevity? Do they mix?I'm also concerned about reports of the green stuff making the steering noticeably harder, it'not the lightest even now. I see you have 'been there ' so to speak. My findings : ,Ford say green ( maybe red) Local garage says red. I'd like to use the right stuff but really dont want heavier steering ( why does it?) Maybe the fluid on my 20k miler is brown( dirty?) due to the reasons you give above? ie wrong red stuff was used. Who knew that changing PAS fluid would be such a dilemma?