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Everything posted by Carl0s

  1. So, i used to drive 2.0 tdci mk3 before i bought this focus, and now im planing to change to mk4 mondeo. The car that i have in mind is 2010, 2.0 TDCI (140) automatic, driven 230k km... The MK3 Did 470k km succesfully whitout a doubt before i sold it, could i assume same from the mk4? The mk3 engine was fords own, the mk4 is aparantly borrowed from PSA? Any ideas if the CAM is chain driven, or belt driven (and how often it should be changed)... And owerall, is it worth to buy? I loved the MK3, but i have the doubts from the mk4 (especialy when the first psa engined car i bought was this focus, and 3 months after i was changing an engine to it)
  2. Ford buttons or self made? I noticed that the GEM beebs on the rear window heater trick, even if the buttons were set up all wrong.
  3. Sorry for late response, i was on work trip to germany, and the hotel had no wifi (what is this, 1960's ?!) For the resistors, the 511 is ok, and 300 you can make from the allready existing 120 and 180 resistors :) I can take piture inside my remote tomorrow, but the awesome paint picture that i did shows same, much more clearly since its kinda messy looking inside the remote when you have the resistors going from button leg to button leg, and the jumpwires going on to another legs. It is possible to use the existing connections on the board, but i didnt bother to plan it that long. I just used stanley to cut the conections 2mm away from the button legs, and then used the resistors and jumpwires to do the connection. Some pictures: Here you can see the button legs, marked whit sharpie Here is picture of the original connections cutted out: Now, here is picture of the connections. DO NOT COPY THIS ONE!!! THIS IS WRONG! This pic is from the first version that i made, and it does not have that "looping". This picture is just to show you how i packed the resistors inside the remote, and what i mean whit the jumpwires (brown ones)
  4. Here's super cool pic that i made whit paint! :D You can use the circuit inside the remote, and the buttons on the circuit board (thats what the picture tries to represent). Just cut the existing button connections, and just solder wires to the button legs, like shown on the picture. The 300ohm resistor is not a "standard" resistor, but you can make 300ohm by soldering 120 & 180 right after each other.
  5. What kind of radio stalk do you have? (or morelike what kind of stereo). I had the CD6000 whit the Vol Up, Mode, Vol Down buttons on the front, and Seek + / - Rocker on the behind. I made the Vol+ to Set +, Mode to RES, Vol- to SET- and the seek up/down to On/Off.
  6. Yeap, if we assume that the current comes from the White wire to the first resistor input, the first resistors output goes to second input, second output goes to thrid input and so on. and on the end of the 5th come the brown wire. Now you connect the off button before the first resistor to the white wire, and to the brown wire set+ button goes after the first resistor, and to brown wire set- button goes after the secod button, and brown wire res goes after third and on goes after fourth, So, when no button is pressed, the current goes trough all the resistors (i think this is so that the gem knows that the remote is connected) When you push OFF, it skips all the resistors, and just shorts the 2 wire. When you push the SET+ button, it connects the 2 wires right after the 1st resistor etc. If you are planning to use the radio remote, i can give you somesort of how-to, what so solder where. if you plann use your own buttons, you need those momentary buttons. The CC remote only gives "impulses" to the ECU what to do :)
  7. The picture thats on the pdf is pretty much the best i can come up whit, (i suck at drawing) but i try to walk you trough it. So, here you see that the resistors are all lined up, so that when no button is pressed, the current needs to go trough all of the resistors. When you push the OFF button, the current skips all of the resistors push the SET+ button, the current goes trough only the 120ohm resistor push the SET- the current goes trough the 120ohm and the 180ohm resistors push the RES button, and the current goes trough 120, 180 and the 300ohm resistors And finaly, when you hit the ON button, the curren goes trough 120,180,300 and 510ohm resistors.
  8. Fixed it!! And now it works. I had read the schematocs wrong. The resistors are connected in line, not 1 resistor per button like i first thought. Many thanks :)
  9. Hmm, now it goes odd... I made the CC buttons to the radio remote. Since it has 5 buttons also, i just cutted the origian connections to the buttons out, and replaced them whit my resistors. But, now for some reason the "Set + " button does not work (the GEM test using the rear windows defroster does not beep from it). Ive checked the scematics, and double checked them. The Set + button is specced to 180ohm and measured is 180.1ohms. All the other buttons work, and the GEM responses when they are ~1% range of the required value... :/
  10. Awesome! That did the trick :) Do i need to activate it somewhere else, or is it good when i went to the "speed controls" and enabled cruise control from Cluster and PCM ? (Also, when i checked the GEM config it sayd Cruise enabled)
  11. Thanks :) Downloaded it, and installed it, but non of the info changed on the information screen. Is this how it should be, or should there be somesort of expiration date, or is it normal that they are "none" ? (i didnt try it on the car yeat, the "none" on "days remaining on license" just does not anticipade anything good) Also, do i need to be complitely offline to use IDS, or is it enough that i just block the connection that firewall asks when the software starts?
  12. Thanks man :) If its any help, heres picture of the info screen: Also, heres the "readme" from the cd
  13. 84 there was ome patch on the DVD's that came whit it :/
  14. edit: Yeah, so i got my IDS VCM today, and when i go to "Toolbox", "Module Programming" it throws me error: "Selection not available"... ?! What should i do?
  15. Nice, apart the exhaust that shoots all the diesel fumes inside the cabin :D And that is not a pleasent smell... I hope i have some spare time this weekend (just moved so need to unpack stuff) to replace the exhaust so it comes out more on the side of the car. But, luckily its been pretty warm (~12c) in these last weeks so there has been not realy need for it :)
  16. Just a headsup.. If / when you get your hood open, remove the 2 screws that keep the grill on. After that the grill is hold in its place anly by few clips. Thisway, if the unlock mechanism starts to give trouble, jou can simply pull the grill off whitout braking anything, and operate the lock.
  17. Good thing i changed the product... Acording to the mhhauto: "Not suitable for module programming (can corrupt/lock PCM,TCM)" :D The new one atleast says on the function list: * Programming & Installation of new ECUs (PCM, ABS, Instrument Cluster, Air Bag, Fuel Pumps, etc.) * Set, Adjust or Remove Speed Governors So i think it should do the trick... :)
  18. I would start by checking the fuse... The AC wount turn on unless the fan is on, so thats why you get no light...