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About PaulKa

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  1. Hi Maximusi, I bought a 2nd hand B-Max 1L Ecoboost Zetec nearly 2 years ago - My wife has a 2012 Fiat Ka, but she keeps borrowing my B-Max. I can see me having to buy her one too - I can't fault them - so so practical, and for disabled, excellent to get easy access, especially in tight car park spaces. Acres of room once you put all the seats down (including the front passenger seat). I managed to get an average of 61 mpg from a tank when trying driving really gently cross-country, yet plenty of poke if you put your foot down. I especially like the high torque at low engine speeds - Set off in 2nd gear and keep accelerating right up to 50 mph without changing gear - it catches the boy-racers out - especially if they think the car is for old fogies! Hard to believe you can get so much umph from a sewing machine!
  2. Check your insurance cover - mine doesn't effect my no-claims bonus (Direct Line) - though I haven't had the problem.
  3. Yes, I'm inclined to back Tiexen on this one - the engine should switch off when you take your foot off the clutch totally when it is in neutral - and re-start the engine as soon as you touch the clutch pedal again. I found that I I stalled the engine, just press the clutch and it re-starts automatically. Press the disengage button on the dashboard if you want it to disable stop/start mode. When disabled, the yellow stop/start light illuminates in the dashboard. You will have to do this every time you park and then re-start the car as the default setting is "on".
  4. Hi Ian - the hose is for getting cooler air from the front of the car to (run more efficiently I assume). I hit a deer a few months ago smashing part of the clamp that mounts to the front edge. I ran the car fine without the hose on for a while before 2-part epoxying the clamp back into place. The end that you have the problem with would fix with the ty-wrap, or even pop a s/s self-tapper through both layers of plastic just to hold it in place and stop it rattling. I don't know the name of the hose but it is the first intake hose on the induction side - nothing special about it, it just pulls the air in from further forward.
  5. Hi - I have the B-Max 1.0 and have just turned 50 so does that make me old? I also have a (Fiat) Ka 2012 and a Ford StreetKa 2003. Does that make me a hairdresser too? 🙂 I am seriously thinking about a second B-Max with the ecoboost to replace the Fiat - the engine really impresses me. The best I have had is 61 mpg with gentle relaxed (50+) driving yet plenty of "poke" when you floor it.
  6. Hi Jmeasey, the gauges are all sharing the 10A fuse with the interior light, clock & radio. If none of these work then Is the fuse okay? If okay then wiring / connection fault probable between fuse and console perhaps, Hope this helps, PaulKa
  7. Hi Caz, The following assumes you have a basic knowledge of electrics and you will need a multimeter. The battery could be poor but a good way to test is;- Ensure the battery is well charged by going on a long run with the lights, electrics, etc. minimised. Then once parked-up, measure the battery voltage - it should be 12.7V or more, depending upon how long it is left. - Disconnect the battery negative (-ve). BEFORE doing so, check that you have the Radio Key Code because the radio will need this before it works again. Leave the car for a day or so. Measure the battery voltage again, if it remained the same as before, it suggests the battery is not losing charge. Hook-up the battery again and check that the engine starts. If it won't then this suggests the battery has lost it's charge. If the battery is seeming okay then the problem probably lies with the car electrics. Next, ensure everything is switched off on the car electrics. Keep the battery disconnected and using the Ammeter on the multimeter, connect the battery negative to the black negative lead by passing the current through the multimeter leads. The multimeter will indicate if there is any current flowing from the battery. If current is indicated when all the electrics are off, then there is a problem somewhere on the electrical system. To narrow down the search, you can open the fuse box (above the accelerator pedal) and you will see lots of fuses. Ideally you need to position your ammeter where you can see it or get another person to help by taking readings. Next, remove one fuse at a time and see if the current loss stops. If there is no change, put the fuse back in the same position and move on to the next fuse. Do the same test and work through each fuse in turn ENSURING that each fuse goes back in its original location. Once you remove a fuse and the current drops to zero, this will indicate which circuit is at fault - and will help narrow the search. This information will help tracing the origin of the fault, but depending upon the nature, you may still need professional assistance, but time can be saved by following this process. Hope this helps, PaulKa
  8. Hi GCG. I removed fuse No. 2 when trying to trace a fault causing my battery to drain. This fuse controls the radio, clock, interior light AND data for the dashboard. The car could drive but the speedo, fuel gauge, rev counter all showed zero, irrespective of speed. Perhaps you should check the fuse is making a good connection. Is the radio and/or interior light okay? Hope this helps. PaulKa
  9. Welcome to the Ford forums PaulKa :)