nazsky786

True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    730
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About nazsky786

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Naz
  • Ford Model
    FOCUS MK2
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

Recent Profile Visitors

4,796 profile views
  1. Hi, Got issue with my headlights not leveling both are pointing straight to the ground. I've check with elmconfig and tried to calibrate on flat surface but get error codes. This is you put the module in prefacelift and get error code b2621 rear axle vehicle level sensor signal not plausible. Put the module into facelift and you get code b2618 front axle vehicle level sensor not plausible. This is the facelift focus but don't seem to want to work anymore. All that has changed is battery died and that why I gather it needs calibration but it won't do it. Headlights all the way down. Module version is 3m51-13k031-ad. Software version 08.11.2004. Any help?
  2. I would then ask you to check for any stored codes.
  3. Would have been a nice car of they did. More power then the standard.
  4. That could be right. The Bluetooth module is also part of the can bus and the signal for shutdown is never received from the headunit, both work together. But does depend if the car even had Bluetooth. Check battery, and alternator if charging.
  5. We would need to know the actual engine. Did Ford even make a 1.6 petrol turbo? Focus 2011
  6. I agree with stef, you can just clean it and get a good enough seal. Damaged alloys are repairable but depends on cost and extent of damage. Alloy wheels are a softer metal so unless a nail or something had just went straight thru.
  7. If you want to do it yourself try using ForScan. Also you need 2 keys if you only have one the locksmith nor you can get it to start. Pats system requires 2 registered keys.
  8. Issue is cluster to ecu, car will still start and run with just them 2 modules.
  9. Just to check so you have 2 keys at least programmed to the car. With both keys you get 23 flash code? Check all fuses in the engine bay and passenger foot well. To check if it's the cluster you can wd40 the multiple connector and see if it works. Board side not the actual grey connector. If no fix clean the wd40 off as it not the issue. Also check you installed the battery correctly and if the ecu side on the battery box it that is connected correctly..
  10. Causes for the light to remain on are, Failing modules should have stored codes. Keyless systems and aftermarket stereos with the canbus adaptor for steering wheel. It should turn off in 45 mins any longer and you do have an issue. You can get away with it if the battery is stronger or rated higher then the car specifies.
  11. Yes, spuds - I'm surprised it was mentioned first to just check everything is nice and tight. Wheel nuts don't come loose on there own, this comes down to failure to torque them down or even do them up at all and just finger tight.
  12. It is possible to do. Slight modification, and additional parts like rear bracket and bolts but if you get it all included, it is a great mod.
  13. You would need to completely remove any aftermarket stereo which includes any can bus boxes, as WES has said. You normally get battery drain on car either keyless or aftermarket stereo, or failed modules keeping the bus alive. You should be left with just the quad lock connector, and Ariel.
  14. O and Ford use a smart charging system so numbers with fluctuate
  15. Simple dash cluster test will show the battery power before start up and once started. It should be 13-14 volts when charging and 9-12volts when engine off. To test a battery correctly you need a load tester. Alternator you need multimeter, but dash test is free test. And will show you any issues.