nazsky786

True Ford Enthusiast
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About nazsky786

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Naz
  • Ford Model
    FOCUS MK2
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Oh and if you need the wiring just for door modules I can get it for you. But it will just be wiring for door modules. You will need to lay it down next to the original wiring. So you end up with redundant wiring but door modules. And added weight.
  2. Thanks for the reply. I had lifted the complete car, which seemed to have fix it. I think you do have to do it twice(calibartion) but car needs to be level and empty boot, only carrying things it normally holds. As for all 4 electric windows what I did was got a focus with all 4 electric windows. And just cut out the door module wiring. And transferred it over. Saying that the only reason I did this was the car I found turned out to not have curtain airbag wiring in correct place/ if at all. The dual zone is simple to install also get the parts install it is difficult. You remove both front doors and there is a bold hidden you remove that from both side after you have removed the dash etc and the releases the crash bar system. After that's move you can get to the heater box. You need space to get around the car. As you need to get to ac pipes and coolant under bonnet. So make sure you have the ac gas removed properly.
  3. Was the issue you had the same if you changed the software on the module to prefacelift and facelift? Try Forscan as well. Thats gives more details on what to do.
  4. Hi, yeah, sorted it. I'm not sure 100% how. I lifted the car up and placed on axle stands then used elmconfig to configure it. It seem to have worked but headlights was facing to far down. So I then done calibration on flat ground after fixing the perfect place and done the calibration again. It was this calibration that fixed it. The sensors themselves on mine were fine. Its just the car didn't want to calibrate for some reason before and messing with setting etc didn't help. My thinking is the sensors just needed to know the beginning and ending of the suspension travel. So jack car up off all 4 tyres and the find nice flat ground. Don't really have a exact fix, else I would have put it up on here.
  5. Hi, Got issue with my headlights not leveling both are pointing straight to the ground. I've check with elmconfig and tried to calibrate on flat surface but get error codes. This is you put the module in prefacelift and get error code b2621 rear axle vehicle level sensor signal not plausible. Put the module into facelift and you get code b2618 front axle vehicle level sensor not plausible. This is the facelift focus but don't seem to want to work anymore. All that has changed is battery died and that why I gather it needs calibration but it won't do it. Headlights all the way down. Module version is 3m51-13k031-ad. Software version 08.11.2004. Any help?
  6. I would then ask you to check for any stored codes.
  7. Would have been a nice car of they did. More power then the standard.
  8. That could be right. The Bluetooth module is also part of the can bus and the signal for shutdown is never received from the headunit, both work together. But does depend if the car even had Bluetooth. Check battery, and alternator if charging.
  9. We would need to know the actual engine. Did Ford even make a 1.6 petrol turbo? Focus 2011
  10. I agree with stef, you can just clean it and get a good enough seal. Damaged alloys are repairable but depends on cost and extent of damage. Alloy wheels are a softer metal so unless a nail or something had just went straight thru.
  11. If you want to do it yourself try using ForScan. Also you need 2 keys if you only have one the locksmith nor you can get it to start. Pats system requires 2 registered keys.
  12. Issue is cluster to ecu, car will still start and run with just them 2 modules.
  13. Just to check so you have 2 keys at least programmed to the car. With both keys you get 23 flash code? Check all fuses in the engine bay and passenger foot well. To check if it's the cluster you can wd40 the multiple connector and see if it works. Board side not the actual grey connector. If no fix clean the wd40 off as it not the issue. Also check you installed the battery correctly and if the ecu side on the battery box it that is connected correctly..
  14. Causes for the light to remain on are, Failing modules should have stored codes. Keyless systems and aftermarket stereos with the canbus adaptor for steering wheel. It should turn off in 45 mins any longer and you do have an issue. You can get away with it if the battery is stronger or rated higher then the car specifies.
  15. Yes, spuds - I'm surprised it was mentioned first to just check everything is nice and tight. Wheel nuts don't come loose on there own, this comes down to failure to torque them down or even do them up at all and just finger tight.