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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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About nazsky786

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    Too much time on the boards

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    West Midlands

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  1. Modified Car Valuation?

    I did have to shorten the wheel well, only slightly so it still holds the tyres seal and pump etc. RS ST you don't have this issue as there have no rear boot spare wheel well. I've put it for 25.000. Reason for it is you cannot buy a mk2 RS awd with that power in 5 door. But you can get the mk3 RS in 5 door awd but a 2.3 4 cylinder instead of the beauty of the 5. Power output is within same region if remapped etc. The AWD is slightly different as my car has a front LSD, which does not come on a mk3 unless you get the limited version. RS mk2 also don't depreciate a lot reason for it is it looks more aggressive better sounding etc. All in all if anything was to happen it would be replaced for the focus RS mk3 or build up another which takes time. If you disagree please state how much you would price it for like for like replacement, not how much to sell it for. O an thanks to everyone who has already commented. Regards
  2. Modified Car Valuation?

    It's the price of replacing it for like for like, or total money put into the car to get it where it is. I've attached pictures I think.
  3. Modified Car Valuation?

    With every car project or had it's ups and downs. But is fun and a great car to drive. The snow was best. Seeing Audi driver shocked with a focus turning it rear wheels. I need to attach pics which I will do later need to blur out reg etc.
  4. Modified Car Valuation?

    Hello, As you have guessed I have a modified Ford Focus, which I'm trying to get insurance on but keep getting the question, how much is it worth? A question which I have no idea and maybe just over estimating. The car originally was a 1.6 Ford Focus LX Petrol. Mods that have been done are: Engine swapped from Focus RS500, this includes the LSD Gearbox and other bits to get it to work, intercooler etc. Engine is complete with turbo etc. 350bhp but man be remapped to 425 which is soon. Next we move to brakes which are standard Focus RS brakes, and suspension which is lowered with coilpacks from Balistain, adjustable etc. Move onto the fun bit.- it has been AWD Converted from Kuga and Volvo V50 Parts, was told be expensive but wait long enough for parts and you can do this for less then £1000. Then we has Body, it isn't 5 door version of a RS, in original ink blue with gloss black accents. Body kit includes front and rear bumper, bootlid, bonnet, headlights, wings, doors trim removed, rear lights, wing mirrors etc. Outside looks like a RS but 5dr. Interior is a mix and match, it has St 3 leather seats heated, with door panels in leather black. Dash and some panels are alcanatra wrapped. Headliner is black with submarine lighting and starlight as seen in rolls Royce. Cluster is changed for a big screen cluster from RS. Mileage is at around 90,000. Shell has done more. All lights led converted, ps2 in glove box. CD player pioneer sat Nav etc. Dashboard boost pods. So in essence a Mk2 RS ink blue with 90,000 miles 5door with 2.5 litre 425bhp AWD. Nearest replace the I can think of is a 2.3 focus RS new one. I will attach picture but hopefully you can decide for now. Take care
  5. OK, looking at it now then the traditional pats system works. Try placing the fob in the armrest and try starting the car. It maybe the fobs need reprogramming to the KVM Module. Also this sounds like the issue of the car being stood and the key fobs being next to a device that can cause interference and mess up the pair coding. Reprogram the Fobs Keyless system. Then we shall move to any issues that remain.
  6. Did you use correct battery type? No accidental mismatch of positive and negative? When you say it start with keyfob next to pats is that with Blade or not? Looking at codes the car has actually forgotten the keys that are registered to it. My car did same but it did sort itself n it own. You may need keys reprogrammed. And for the air system check all fuses. You may have the wrong battery type, fuses gone, rats got inside the car and made a home for 3 months. But looking at the info without the further details it just a reprogram keys, and a fuse for dual zone climate system.
  7. Dash, tail, side & reg plate lights not working

    The problem you have sounds like you have used standard led lights, if you have rear headliner lights then your car will only allow for can bus led lights. The fuse blowing is the gem module itself popping it to prevent damage. Installing a 10 fuse into the gem would mean you have potentially damaged the gem internally. Install can bus leds and then see if it resolves the issue, but by the sounds of it the gem internal pathways may have burnt out.
  8. Just asking if it is possible to install a mk3.5 RS steering wheel onto a mk2.5 RS. I like the flat bottom, and steering wheel controls. So far the steering rack is the same. So the clockspring will swap over and the wheel, so that it come to what wires would need placing where. If anyone has wiring diagrams for RS steering wheel that would help me know what wires I need to tap the mk3.5 steering wheel into. There also appears to be 2 types of airbags one with 2 connectors and another with one. If I use the one with 1 connector should be a straight swap. So plan is Remove old steering wheel Change the clock springband the indicator stalk peice Install new steering wheel Trace wires to each component. The left and right directions on the steering wheel will be obsolete as the RS only does up and down and select.
  9. Focus mk1.5 VSS (speed sensor)

    Did you keep a note of the old codes before you did a reset? As P1000 suggest someone clear some old codes, pending or stored. P0723 - would suggest you have a wiring issue or sensor issue. As you stated you have change the sensor twice, that would mean you have some wiring tracing to do. You need to see if any wiring has been damaged or kinked. As the signal is intimate you need to check wiring. You could also try going over a bump or harsh road and see what the needle does then. Or something that is shouldn't be but could be a issue is the connector is either not on correctly to the sensor or is worn out, or broken locking tab.
  10. By the sounds of it, it is a dead or potential dead pcm. The ecu can cause all these issues but so can a fuse or wiring issue. It's a lot of work to track electrical issues, some just keep swapping parts until it's fixed. Do as the other member have stated and get the dealership to solve it. As a new ecu is a lot of money, and it doesn't even come programmed to the car.
  11. 06 1.8TDCi Engine system fault after service

    Starting with the easiest the power steering malfunction can display when you try to start the car multiple times, as to decrease the power in the battery. Low voltage causes this error, but once you have good voltage at the better is should stay off. If you have a diagnostic tool see if you have any codes stored or pending in the PCM. Does the car your having issues with have MAF? Mass Air Flow. It should be located near to the air filter housing. If it does disconnect it and see if the car will start you may need to press the accelerator to get it to not die. If it runs, then you have a faulty MAF, however before we go parts changing you need to make sure all the piping going from the author housing to the throttle body are secure and tight and have absolutely no holes or cuts. Get back to us with the codes and someone on here will help you. Take care
  12. Many places do remaps, it's suggested on here to always have a custom map, as your car could be in better condition engine wise to be able to push more power, it also gives you the opportunity to tell the tech what mods have been done. If it's a standard car you want more power from then bluefin is easiest option, or you can take it to pretty much anyone who does there own maps, don't do off the shelf maps that anyone can download and install, it's safer to keep the original ford pcm file.
  13. Supercharging my MK2.5, Can it be done?

    ST Conversion is best choice. As JW said you will need some of them parts others you can do at a later date. You cannot use the RS gearbox as the driveshafts will never fit and you wheels will come way out. As RS is wider. ST or RS engine with ST gearbox, and front subframe from ST. ST standard is 225BHP, RS is 300BHP and you could stage 1 the ST and get around 260-270bhp But ST engine would need a Block MOD. RS Cam get away with it but these engines are 1. Hard to find and 2. Worth loads of money. Wiring is easy once you old engine is out. You may also need to swap the abs module unless you find a ST1 wiring harness. The only reason you need to swap the engine bay wiring is for the power steering and some other connections for sensors. You could pick up ST engines for around £2000, including the gearbox etc. Breaking ST for around 1500+ but that's if your lucky. It's cheap if you do the work yourself, if not your out of luck this can cost 1000+ to get a garage to do it. You may also if you have the heater core which has a black clip in the piping need to replace that with complete version without cut, as the ST or RS engine do run coolant alot faster and more pressure. You will also need the top strut mount. All in all this is a engine you can have fun with. BTW its a VOLVO derived T5 Engine. 5 cylinders of pure power and sound. If you crazy enough to beat others to the 600bhp mark.
  14. Turbo Whine

    Whining from the turbo is normal when it is engaging. If it really loud then you have a issue, check air filter is clean, and check oil. But a normal whine when on the power is normal.
  15. Fuel Flap 56 plate

    On the MK2 the fuse is part of the central locking. So if that is working the fuse is fine. If you have tested both flaps and neither worked, then you have a wiring issue, saying that did you press unlock again on the key fob when it wasn't opening? And has that side of the car been damaged? Also make sure all connectors on the fuse box passenger are secure. The ones your looking for are brown in colour one small one big. Regards