Foc'd off

Budding Enthusiast
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Everything posted by Foc'd off

  1. Thanks for the reply BOF. It's done 91,000 with full service history and well maintained. The problem to me feels like there's a gate in the selector box beneath the gear lever that's partially worn. Either that or a selector rod is mis-aligned, the gearbox is otherwise very smooth and quite and it makes no difference if it's hot or cold!!
  2. Hi All, I recently purchased a 1.6 petrol 2005 Zetec climate Mk2 Focus and apart from some other niggly problems the one that's bugging me is the gear change! It's fine from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th and 5th plus reverse, but when I slow down for a corner or junction and want to go from 5th to 3rd it's a real fiddle trying to get it to engage. If I go from 5th to 4th then 3rd it's ok but not from 5th to 3rd. Selecting any lower gears ie: 4th to 3rd to 2nd to 1st are perfect. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  3. Yeah my local dealer is at Dunton near Basildon and they are open tomorrow. No worries about the cost, they could be a few pence or a few quid each but I need my car back on the road. Thanks for your help, I appreciate it ;)
  4. Thanks jeebowhite but these diagrams don't show the O-rings I need. The ones I want slide over the fuel feed pipe from the top of the combined pump/sender unit that sits on top of the fuel tank Edit to add, sorry my fonts seem to have gone bad like my o-rings!!!
  5. Hi all, I have a 2002 1.4 focus, and the O-rings on the fuel send pipe from the top of the pump/sender assembly have failed. Does anyone know if these are available from Ford and if possible a part number please? The original items were assembled as O-ring, nylon disc, O-ring on the snapfit fuel pipe from the pump. Thanks in anticipation!!
  6. Hi all, I'm going to change my cambelt this weekend on a 02 1.4 with 89k on the clock. I have seen the crank TDC holding tool which is apparently a 10x1.5mm thread with a narrower plain section. My question is, can someone please tell me the length and diameter of the plain section and length of the threaded section to the bottom of the hex head. I've seen a few examples of people using a threaded M10 bolt without the plain section which in my mind would cause the timing to be out by a degree or so. I have the engineering ability to create this part, I just need the measurements. Thanks.
  7. Well I'm no nearer to a solution than before. First I measured the IACV, that comes back as 9.7 ohms, the plug on the loom shows one pin at 12.8v and the other appears to be earth. I was wondering why bother to have an earth wire to the IACV when it could easily be done through the chassis ground? Anyway, I removed the ECU and stripped it to find masses of metal filings inside, some were on the legs of a rather large processor looking chip. I removed all the dust etc and rebuilt it. Still no difference, the IACV holds fully open no matter what. Whilst I'm thinking about this, does anyone know the travel of the IACV piston? Mine only moves about 3mm from shut to fully open!
  8. I'll go out and check these now and report back, I'll also be taking a more thorough look at the condition of the wiring for frayed/earthing wires corrosion etc. Thanks all for your comments!
  9. Let's not get into an argument over this. All I really want to know is why my IACV is holding open at any temp or rev setting. My bets is a damaged ECU/PCM module but I would still appreciate any feedback on this!
  10. Thank you for your reply, i may also suspect it's the PCM since I found it was damaged due to a previous accident. I will drag the ECU/PCM out and see what's going on. I have access to a scope but in all honesty I can't be asked when the only problem is a low idle when cold!! With the IACV disconnected it's fine when warmed up.
  11. Let me enlighten you. PCM = Power Control Module TPS = Throttle Position Sensor TMAP = Thermal Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation ECU = Electronic Control Unit IACV = Idle Air Control Valve
  12. Can you give me something more to go on? Saying it's knackered is one thing but do you know of one where it opens fully? In otherwords, is the PCM putting out a higher voltage to cause it to open or is there another reason? My engine has a TPS tested ok, TMAP sensor tested ok, PCV hose found to be collapsing and replaced, ECU reset made no difference.The IACV voltage is at a constant high, I suspect it's the PCM module, saying it's the IAC is a poor answer considering the above!
  13. Thanks for your answer but I'm really not looking to do a bodge, I just want to find out what is causing this problem so I can do a proper fix!
  14. My apologies for registering and diving straight in with a problem but I'm at a loss!! The story as follows. My Focus is a 2002 1.4 with only 80,000 miles on the clock. The issue with it is the idle air control valve opens fully causing the engine to idle at ~3000 rpm's. With the IACV disconnected the engine will stumble when cold but idles perfectly when warmed up. I have checked about everything I can find, and did find the PCV hose was collapsing so I replaced that at a cost of £17 from Fords. I then did a ECU reset and reconnected the IACV but this made no difference with the engine still idling at over 3k. Now comes the hard to answer question. How would an IACV typically fail and would one fail in the open position? When the ignition is on and whatever the state of the engine (running or not), if I connect the loom to the IACV it will pull fully open. If not the IACV being faulty, I'm suspecting the PCM is the culprit. Thanks in advance for your help!