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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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About Tiggi

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  • Birthday 01/12/1969

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  1. Ok need to pick your brains. I am looking for the small metal retaining clips for the front grille of my StreetKa. It looks like a minature Wilkinson Sword old fashioned razor blade. Also I would like to get hold of the clip/fastener for the rubber 'bumper' in the soft-top roof compartment as I've had one brake and it took me an mammoth age to find a new one. If you can suggest any companies that do these I will be eternally grateful. I rang Ford and got the reply "huh??????" so I'm not too hopeful that they actually understood what I was talking about. Thanks gang Sian-Marie
  2. Heater blowing hot

    I had the same problem and was fixed with a part costing £30 and labour at £25. In my opinion do not ever under any circumstances go to Ford for your car problems. Apart from the rip-off in prices, they actually damaged my car, hard top roof and the case it comes in. I was so angry because they were supposed to be sorting out a hard-top fixing kit issue and they did a full service which it didn't need (as the previous service was only done 2 months before) and tried to charge me £475 for the privalege. What's more they didn't fix the issue with the hard top which was a burnt wire for the heated rear screen. This was fixed by an car electrician costing me £40. Best wishes Sian-Marie
  3. Hi Simon I got a guy who specialises in these to do it, I found him through ebay and I'm sure he's based near Hereford. Took the car in, he did the job while we had lunch in a local pub (his wife took us in the car) and cost £120. Did a brilliant job and the replacement is much better than the original, much thicker vinyl. Plus he put in the zipper so that next time I crack it I just have to have one sent to me. The glove box clip is a pain when it brakes but get a new one from a KA and it is dead simple to replace. I did mine in 5 minutes, removed the old clip and put in the new one - job's a good'un as they say. Only tool you need is a pair of thin nosed pliers. As for the radio code, I can't help as I changed my radio and actually still have my old one and code. I understand from my brother-in-law that any good garage should be able to help. Take care Sian-Marie
  4. 04 Street Ka Roller Glove Box

    Hi Tracey I had the same problem with my StreetKa and it is really dead simply to remove. I used a pair of pliers and it came out with no problem at all, then simply purchased a standard KA clip and pushed it in until it clicked. Now no more problem. All the best Sian-Marie.
  5. Another Handle Issue!!

    Emma Before replacing the door handle ensure that all the doors are aligned correctly as this will put additional strain on the handle. I went through 4 handles (1 off-side and 3 near-side) before they got the door properly straight and haven't had a new handle since. Also make sure your locks are properly greased to ensure that they don't stick. Frankly I think the door handles are a bit flmsy in the design but it doesn't help when the door has dropped, which they have a tendency to do. I keep a stock of door handles are the first 4 went and have 3 of each in my garage. All the best Sian-Marie
  6. Screws- Badges

    Hi, I've had a few door handles replaced but I'm lazy and got them done by my local garage. The rear badge just pops off and the new one sticks on, no big deal. The front badge I'm also trying to get changed so any information you get I'll be grateful for as well. It looks like you have to take half the front of the car off to do it but I'm sure this can't be right. All the best Sian-Marie
  7. Hi all, it has been an age since I last posted mostly due to a massive move from London to Cornwall. It was stressful but things are now settling down and, as suspected, my health is improving daily. So funnily enough is that of my car, nicknamed Noddi by my company's security team (and it has stuck LOL). The mysterious rattle which Ford couldn't find turned out to be the aftermarket 'manicat' that had been fitted hitting the sub-frame as the new/old design is a fraction longer in the flexipipe - sorted by my new local garage and no big drama. The ABS light not going out meant removing the ECU and sending it away. Unfortunately the fault was caused by a burnt out wire, which in turn wipe the ECU clean. It was tested, the wire replace and the ECU reprogrammed. A big cost at £250 but better than paying for a completely new ECU. Everything working fine. Engine Management Light intermittently coming on, was caused by the coils being corroded. Probably caused when the heater matrix let go and sprayed the lot with water/coolant. New coils and leads fitted and all great. I am amazed that a local garage and my brother-in-law were able to sort out these problems when a main Ford garage couldn't. I am so glad I went through the pain to find the issues as Noddi is running brilliantly and with a new strut-brace fitted is handling like a dream. I am in love again with my StreetKa. One careful-ish owner namely me. However, now I wish to give her a bit of a tart up and one thing I would like to do is change my front badge. Any ideas before I go and bother my poor belighted brother-in-law again? It looks like the entire front of the car has to be removed and I'm pretty sure that can't be right. Just for a badge? Madness if correct. So in any event, I am hoping you are all well and had a happy Xmas, New Year and Easter. With love Sian-Marie AKA Tiggi (the cat)
  8. Thank you for the welcome. I am hoping someone has got some ideas as this is dragging on a bit. I'm sure by time Mick, my mechanic, has finished with this one he'll have completely rebuilt her. He has some ideas and I'm wondering if anyone else can expand on them. 1. Electrical problem. Mick believes this is due to a problem in the wiring loom between the ABS ECU (which is helpfully in a position to get the most damage) and the power supply, fuses and earths have been checked and no fault is reading there so we anticipate that a wire is most probably corroded. 2. Annoying rattle. Mick has a feeling this may be due to the clutch or diff. The clutch, whilst is only just a year old, could have a manafacturing fault or could possibly be that the housing bolts are loose. Both problems he is looking in to. However, it is a mystery so far.
  9. Hi before I start asking questions, please let me start by saying that yes I'm female and yes I don't work on my cars but I'm not a total numpty where technical things are concerned. Having said that I am posting as my mechanic and I are now officially stumped. I have had numberous Fords over the years (my first car was the 1.3 Mexico) and I bought the StreetKA brand new in July 2004. However, she has been a complete pain and we've had a lot of issues with her. Apart from the new HT Leads and Manicat/Maniverter she had fitted when still under warranty, I've since had another Manicat last year and also the clutch done. She has also had a new Lamda sensor fitted (2 years ago), and recently had the anti-roll link arm bushes done and new wishbones, ABS ECU and Pump. However, this is where I need help. The car, despite the new ECU still is showing the ABS light, the usual suspects have been checked and ruled out (including battery, alternator, bad earths etc.and the ECU was sent away for checking, speed sensors have also been check as have the brakes). The code comes back as power out of range. Still the light is there and now the engine management light comes on but the code is 02 bank, which indicates that either I need another manicat or the lamda is again knackered. Now to be honest I think this is actually a wiring problem but I wondered if anyone else has any ideas. On top of this I have also developed one hell of a rattle when the car is in low gear and taking a heavy load, such as coming off of roundabouts and traffic lights. I think this is possibly the clutch as it is the area I am getting the noise from. Any other ideas as the clutch is only a year old and I don't want to spend out on a new one if it transpires it doesn't fix it. Thanks in advance for your help.
  10. Welcome to the Ford forums Tiggi :)