FreeFocus

Budding Enthusiast
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    17
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About FreeFocus

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Nigel
  • Gender*
    Not Telling
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Ghia Hatchback
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Car Restoration

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Basingstoke

Recent Profile Visitors

1,016 profile views
  1. Hi anyone have for sale or knows wherevto get an original mk1 mondeo estate rear bumber. Tried ebay. Bteakers gumtree find a part. Can be new or used in good condition thanks email brazier305@btinternet.com 

  2. Thanks for the feedback, shame that the after market suppliers can't make a decent product. I'll giuve parts gateway a try, in the past it's been hit and miss with decent parts and junk being suipplied (I bought several BMW E39 spares via breakers on parts gateway). May try sealant if I can't find a good alternative.
  3. I have a 2008 Mondeo Ghia (BA 7). My headlight units aren't as water tight as they should be and let in a bit of water in prolonged periods of wet weather. I decided to replace them (didn't fancy the option of using sealant), bought some "top quality" after market units off ebay which had the usual after market problems of poor fit etc so had to refit the originals. Ford parts are £300+ per side, can anyone recommend an after market spare that is a good quality replacement? I've seen various parts companies offering brands such as Abakus, DIEDERICHS... once bitten twice shy.
  4. I had to remov a Parrot CLK3100 kit which was pretty shabby and suffering buttons that didn't always work. I decided to replace it and the factory issue Sony with an Xtrons Android 8.1 Head unit which is meant to be plug and play on a 2008 Mondy. This comes with a CanBus box and wiring harness to attach to the factory ISO connector. Having removed the parrot, I connected the Sony up and it worked fine. Plugged the Xtron unit it and it refused to power up. I have tried with the ignition off, position and 1 and position 2. I notice the following: The supplied xtron harness has two connectors for ACC, one goes to the canbus box and other other to headunit directly, only one of these can be connected to the the cars wiring harness. Similarly I have two wires tagged Key A and Key b, but only one can be connected at once. I have tried different combinations and nothing works. The Parrot had been wired to the hazard warning lights, I assume as this provides power when the ignition is off. I cut the wire at the point where it had been spliced into the parrot harness so as to be able to remove said harness from the car. I noticed an earlier thread on this forum where the chap was connecting a Kenwood up and couldn't get it to power on until until he released there was no switched live. I am wondering if I have the same issue with the Xtron unit. For the avoidance of doubt, the Sony is back in the car as I write this and working perfectly so I know the issue has to be with the Xtron or the supplied harness. Thoughts gratefully rec'd.
  5. I managed to fit the GPS Antenna: Removed the glove box Pull off A Pillar Trim Removed the side panel (required pull door seal away from frame) Easy to thread the cable through and reassemble, however, see my next post as I have another problem!
  6. Thank you for the replies, I am going to have a go this morning and will post back on how I got on.
  7. Hello, I've got an Xtrons Unit to replace the factory fit Sony Radio and wondering where I should place the GPS Antenna. On my old 5 series BMW the antenna was placed the A pillar on top of the dash by the passenger door. The audio engineer fiddled it down to the radio. No audio engineer this time, just me and can't see an obvious way to get the antenna wire down to the head unit. I had wondered about removing the A Pillar trim and glove box and hoping I could find a path, but parts diagrams and postings elsewhere aren't giving me many clues and keen to minimise trial and error strip down. Thanks in and advance.
  8. My mechanic has advised that the manifold/cat assembly has seen better days and while it's not dangerous or leaking it will need to be replaced sooner or later as the outer casing has deteriorated. He also tells me that having done a similar job on a Volvo (which has the same engine) they ended up using genuine Ford parts as cheaper after market parts didn't fit properly. Ford part is approx £450 + 2-3 hours of fitting. Has anybody had any success with after market parts and where would be a good place to go for a competitive price in the Reading/North Hants area.
  9. Hi I am thinking about a Mk4 2007/2008 143bhp petrol engine in Ghia (90k) or Titanium/X (77k miles) form. Both have partial service history, scuffs and scratches but not that tatty over all. 1) The 2.0 Ghia, had a flat battery when the dealer started it and after that the display was showing engine fault - was this to do with the flat battery or a sign of something worse? 2) Am I correct in assuming these are chain driven? 3) Is there anything I should be looking for in particular mechanically; the 2.0 Ghia seemed to lack a bit of "go" compared the Titanium/X I am looking at (flat battery issues?), but other than than both seemed to drive OK. Our other car is new and small which is fine for most things so looking for the Mondeo to be a "run about" that take larger loads and also on occasion cover longer distances. I opted for petrol as I have read these are more reliable than the diesels variants and cost less to fix. (I had a MK1 Focus petrol saloon which wasn't too expensive to repair and best of all it didn't need much maintenance!) 4) I am looking to replace the standard sony radio/6cd changer with an aftermarket sat-nav jobbie (seems to be several around) - any recommendations as to which is best any implications for the interaction with the drivers LCD screen in the Ghia or Titanium/X. Thanks
  10. Thanks, that's useful info. If I do replace the alloys I would want to go with Ford alloys anyway, but it sound like I would need to have check that the tyre supplier could change the CCC/remove the rack limiter. I suspect I would go for 16" - it's all about being practical rather than the car looking good. I know the dealer has had the wheels sprayed so reckon they will want a full refurb in a year or two anyway.
  11. Just about to pick up a 2011 Mk3 Titianum which comes with 18" alloys (option from new I assume). I don't fancy the prices of 18" tyres so wondering if I can change to 17" or 16" alloys without too much trouble - would welcome thoughts.
  12. Hi, I have a focus saloon with RDS5000 head unit and 6 cd changer. I am wondering if I can put an in dash sat nav head unit to replace the factory head unit. I am hoping there is an easy and cheap upgrade! Thanks
  13. A few weeks back I accidentally opened the drivers side rear window using the drivers door master control. I pressed the up button and the window went down more, pressed up again and it went all the way down and stayed down, neither the front or rear passenger switch would do anything. My local mechanic got the window up and found that with the master control out of the loop the rear switch operated the window (so motor OK). He thought the master swtich was faulty. I purchased a new master control switch, fitted it and while the front windows work perfectly, the rear passenger side window clicks and doesn't move, the rear drives passenger window goes down but not up (even when pressing the up button it only goes down!) - pressing the swtich to isolate the rear windows allow the rear door switches to operate their respective windows. My other observation is that closing the drivers door can trigger the locking central locking - i.e. it makes they same sound as pressing the unlock button on the remote control with the car unlocked. I doubt that the new switch is faulty as it seems to have the same problems as the old one. My theory is the wiring loom in the drivers door, perhaps where it folds/unfolds as the door opens, has seen better days. Has anybody seen this fault before, if so what was the cause? All clues gratefully rec'd. I am also wondering what the part number(s) are for the drivers door wiring loom and ideas on cost. Online research has been unsucessful so far;I hate going to the main stealer unprepared!
  14. Problem solved. I took the car to my local body shop who determined that water was getting between the seems, he did a bit of welding and job done - no more moisture in the boot.
  15. Hi Thanks for the thoughts - I don't have a spolier so sadly can't check that out - it's a '99 Ghia! The roof rack plugs are worth a shot - most likley be the weekend before I get the chance for a look see. Thanks