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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


rg1642

FOC Supporters
  • Content count

    96
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About rg1642

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday 07/22/1961

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Russ

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.8TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Norfolk
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Travel
    Road Trips
    Entertainment
    Computers & Electronics
    Arts & Crafts
    Literature
    Sports & Leisure

Previous Fields

  • Location
    East Harling

Recent Profile Visitors

1,484 profile views
  1. 1.8tdci mk2 fluctuating temp gauge

    Yeah sorry I forgot to say Id done the thermostat as well. Did that due to the slow warm up. Also had the water pump changed when I did the cam belt. I'm stumped. Just hoping theres a software glitch or something someone knows about. Ford fitted the new high pressure pump for me a couple of years ago so that's when it had its last software update. Its always taken ages to warm up from when I first got it at 65000 but since the new pump was fitted Ive had a gradual drop in fuel efficiency as well coupled with this weird coolant gauge fluctuation.
  2. Hi Folks, Does anyone know of any wiring connections that could allow the throttle position sensor to affect the temperature gauge? It is accompanied by a 10mpg loss of efficiency. When I accelerate the gauge drops from normal to a quarter and then returns when I stop accelerating. I have exhausted my knowledge and really don't want to go to the main stealers. I have done all the obvious, Changed CHT sensor Cooling system OK Had the clock unit / dash checked Injectors checked HP Pump is virtually new Changed rail pressure sensor 1 fault code for a Can Bus error to the dash I am thinking there must be a connection between this fault code and the problem as I now know the clocks / dash itself is ok. The car runs perfectly. There is some black smoke when accelerating but I cant see the injectors being told to dump enough fuel to actually cool the head so I have put that down to the 135000 miles its done with the original turbo. I have three cars in the family with the 1.8 tdci engine and this one has also always taken ages to warm up, even for a diesel, twice as long as the other two. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Russ
  3. 1.8 tdci cold starts

    175000 and all the plugs work ok. I haven't changed the CHTS. Never thought of that. Can't be shot but might be just starting to break down I suppose. The cars nearly had it to be honest but this just annoys me that I can't solve it . Lol 😀
  4. 1.8 tdci cold starts

    Hi, I have 3, 1.8 tdci cars in our family, 2 x focus and an Smax. Now the mk2 and Smax start whatever the weather but the Mk1 is a pig in the cold. I have been through all the plug, loom, relay checks on the mk1 to no avail. The mk2 and Smax glow plug lights stay on for 6 seconds. The mk1, 1 second. I have checked the voltage to the plugs and that goes when the light goes out. My question is what controls the time the power is supplied to the plugs? This is the only other thing left to check and as this is the only difference between all three motors I am assuming it's a fair bet it may be the problem. 😕
  5. Anyone out there a wheel alignment expert? I am trying to get my head around 4 wheel alignment. I bought myself a second hand Balco set that had recently been calibrated. I put the gizmos on the wifes car ( I have had some basic training) and although the rest wheels adjusters are solid they are only a tiny bit off. When I square up the front and back wheels the tie reading In getting is +6 on the off side and -6 on the near side. Now I know this cancels each other out but it seems they are large figures. What I want to know is if this is ok or is it highlighting another geometric problem? The card a MK1 Focus hatch 2003. Thanks Russ
  6. Hello all, My wifes Mk1 diesel has started throwing a code (cant remember no.) for 'MAP sensor circuit fault' which is accompanied by limp mode. Turning the engine off and restarting cures this for a few miles and then it's limp mode again. Clear the code and you get 20 or 30 miles until it comes back. This only started happening after I changed the clutch! No connection I know but strange. The vehicle speed sensor and one of the wheel sensors also packed up at the same time????? I have checked the electrical socket on the sensor and the vacuum pipe has been replaced. Also checked all the pipework from the air box to the EGR. The car runs absolutely perfectly until this fault appears. Any help out there please? :)
  7. LCD Ododmeter failure

    Thanks for that chaps :)
  8. LCD Ododmeter failure

    Hi, Would anyone know if a failure to display milage on the lcd screen was an MOT failure? The screen works intermittently. Sometimes just random lines, sometimes the milage. Also if I had to replace the whole unit, does a used unit hold it's old cars milage or does it display what is in your cars ECU? Ta Russ
  9. Ran for an hour out today. Not a peep out of it. LOL next time I drive without it connected you know what will happen :)
  10. Awesome stuff buddy :) . I got Forscan so I'll run it while I'm out for a few days and see if it happens again. Sods law it will be ok for a few days or weeks now. LOL but at least I know the way to go. I assume I am looking for a big differentail between the FRP & pressure regulator readings?
  11. Hi all, My 1.8 TDCI 2006 Mk2 had a new fuel pump fitted 18 months ago by Ford at the staggering cost of £1800. (Cambelt done at same time) Last week I got a few seconds of rough running, engine systems fault warning, and the red light. Nothing for a few days then the same again, twice in one day. Nothing again until yesterday then the same again. Stuck the scanner on this morning and it was throwing up codes for Rail pressure too high and pressure regulator fault. Is there anything that could cause this other than another pump being on the way out? :(
  12. Mk1 Focus clutch biting point

    This has stayed the same for months now. Drivable but just want to know about the sloppy pedal. :)
  13. Mk1 Focus clutch biting point

    Yay it is one of the 'in the bell housing' concentric slaves. Used a Sealey pressure bleeder from the reservoir. Looking at the system the bleed nipple is obviously above the slave so it would appear gravity has some place in the bleed. I don't see an obvious reason why bleeding from the back up would make any difference but I may try it just in case :)
  14. Hi all, I know the biting points seem to vary on clutches but after I recently changed the DMF, clutch & slave the biting point has literally been just off the floor and its very easy to stall. I pressure bled the system but compared to the other focus's in the house the pedal seems a little sloppy for the first few mm of travel. Do you think there may still be some air in there? How long should I let fluid run through from the pressure bleeder too? There were no bubbles coming out. Can air get trapped anywhere? ta Russ