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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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About ahm

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  • Ford Model
    Ford Focus Mk2.5(?)
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  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. Hi, Ford Focus 2.5 (08 plate). Finally got around to getting a dash cam (lidl cheap jobby), and want to hard wire to ignition live as I know I will flatten the battery otherwise. Would you believe I asked about this nearly three years ago? So, buy a longer usb cable to fit into the trim around the windscreen and down into the passenger footwell. Connect usb cable to dashcam-supplied cigar lighter adapter. Wire in a purchased 12v socket - black to suitable ground (where?) and red wire (o ring stripped off) inserted into a piggyback fuse. What size fuse? Device amps +5A I have seen as a guide (ie 6A so go 7.5A), but could also go for 10A as existing cigar lighter is set at 20A fuse, but two sockets are connected to that? make sure i buy the right "physical size" fuse! Connect the piggyback fuse into suitable ignition live fuse socket (the right way around*): choose from 117 number plate lamps? 110/125 daytime running lamps 131 rear wiper prefer to avoid 100! * Right way round is found by leaving the original fuse out of the piggyback, and then fitting the piggyback, the cam will only power up the right way! i must inform my insurer as this is a modification. Have I missed anything? Thanks, Alan..
  2. Thanks all! I have finally gotten around to lifting the light cluster and I am still in doubt. Once off, the wiring could be traced through to the boot and it comes out higher up (and is an entirely different loom too. Bit the bullet and pulled the grommet out that is leaking and it is the wiring for fuel flap lock.(The wire went forward towards the fuel flap). What I dont understand is how so much water got into the car. The only two possibilities I can think of are: 1) Fuel flap seal is failing and water than tracks along the wire and through the seal. I don't buy that. 2) The wiring seals for the light custer are at fault, but the water is not following the cluster wiring but finding another path which takes it to the other grommet. When it comes to applying silcone to improves water tightness, I take it I am squezzing a huge gobbet of the stuff in the grommet to seal the "slashes" in the grommet so no water can get in? Or am I also applying it to the external circumference of the grommet so sealing the rubber and the metal bulkhead as well? Many thanks, Alan..
  3. Rainwater is getting in on the driver's side of the boot. As the car is on a slope on my driveway, the water runs under the back seat and into the footwells on the driver's side. Car is drying out really well, and now I have found the leak, a towel in front of the back seat in the boot catches any future water ingress. First photo is the driver's side of the boot: carpet up, storage bins removed and carpet trim on that side removed. At the very top edge of the image is a black rubber seal that the wiring loom running upwards connects into. This is seen better in the second photo. It is this seal that is leaking. My best guess is that the wiring loom is for the rear light cluster. Either that or there is a leak higher up around the roof area (load rails). Outside chance that the wiring could be connected to the fuel flap? I presume I should be taking the light cluster out and checking seals. If I want to reseal, will ordinary household silicone sealant do the job, or should I be buying special automotive stuff? I don't want to just bung up the seal that the wiring loom is passing through - the water is still getting into the car and I'm just sending it somewhere else! Many thanks, Alan..
  4. Wet Rear Drivers Side Footwell

    Arthur No i didn't use silicone. However i only detachec the rear washer at the tailgate and IF the rear washer line is the cause i would expect to see wetness in the boot??? I have managed to pull back the carpet in the driver footwell- yes wet there too. God never thought so much water could accumulate. i have idenified what i believe to be the air con hose - does it connect to the side of the footwell- black corrugated hose with white plastic connector? Seems a robust fit so doubtful. Far more likely i think is the grommett under the white foam that rises up behind the pedals under this in front of the styrofoam is a plastic grommet that fills a hole in the metal floor. The goo that should have made a firm connection to the floor has given up and the grommett rattles around in the hole. Yes it has been a wet winter but could that amount of water made it in??? I'm too chicken to remove the carpet at the back footwell. From what i can see i need to disconnect the seat belt at the bottom and i'm not going to mess with that. Many thanks for the assistance
  5. And a rear washer not working Reading on here suggests the two are related. I want to lift the carpet but don't know how to begin. Do I need to lift any of the trim near the base of the door frame? The leak appears to be at the back of the footwell where the carpet goes vertical up to the seat. I have previously had to deal with the washer. I dismantled the spoiler and the assumed blockage was not at the tailgate so I stuck a garden hose in the water bottle and hosed the bottom of the bottle. That worked for a while. I did put neat washer fluid in thinking that would help break up the crud in the bottom of the bottle. Alan..
  6. Doh! http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/23313-12v-socket-change-to-ignition-live/ Remember seeing this way back in my research - hadn't looked at fuse box or manual at that point! Alan..
  7. Ta very much. If I decided to just pull the fuse from 109 and pop it into 110, what could I expect (assuming it doesn't make the 12v socket ignition live)? My best guess would be: 1) Cigar lighter and 12v socket has no power 2) Daytime running lamps circuit suddenly gets a fuse but no running lights fitted so b*gger all happens. Suspect nothing worse than that?! Alan..
  8. James, Thanks for the welcome. I *think* that is what I meant by a piggyback fuse! Yes, that is the other "easy" option that I could go with, but first, I'd like to get some more info about the fuse move option. I did find a page that told you what fuse slots to use on an ancient Mondeo, but I have only read that it is possible on a Mk2.5 Focus but not specifically how to do it. The other "issue" is that slot 109 is 20A and slot 110 is only 10A. Alan..
  9. Hi, I'm trying to figure out how to wire up a dashcam to my Mk2.5(?) Focus (08 plate). I'm aware that cigar lighter and 12v aux socket are both permanent live and looking for a solution to getting ignition live. I really don't want to have to pull the car apart or splice cables, and a couple of options fit that well: my preferred option below, or get Dave at autostar to provide the piggyback fuse and other bits to add some extra ignition live cabling to attach to. My preferred option is to swap the fuse location to make the 12V socket ignition live - the info I've found so far is that it should be an adjacent socket, but I have yet to find a page on the web that actually states which socket to use. From the manual, I have in the passenger junction box: 109 : Cigar lighter, rear auxiliary power socket This is the fuse that I need to move I believe. Disturbed by the term "rear [...] socket" as I only have one in the centre console. It could be termed rear if some models have one in the glovebox, but I am aware that some have one in the boot! So which slot should the fuse move to? Well, if adjacent then I have a choice of: 108 : Accessory to cluster (audio and navigation unit) 110 : Daytime running lamps ignition supply to lighting control switch 114 : Instrument cluster ignition supply, engine immobiliser 115 : Lighting control ignition supply 116 : Fog lamps However, on looking at the fuse panel, only slot 110 is free (I don't have daytime running lamps). What is getting me is I cannot understand how pulling a fuse and putting in another slot can change the behaviour of the 12v socket! I am not very clued up on electrics - I am guessing that the 12v socket is *NOT* wired up exclusively to the 109 slot but to multiple sockets, and it just happens that you get fuse protection with ignition live if connected to slot 110, and fuse protected permanent live if fitted to slot 109 (and for god's sake don't put a fuse in both!). Am I remotely in the right ball park? Do I have the right shape ball??? Many thanks, Alan..