Dave May

Budding Enthusiast
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About Dave May

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/29/1947

Profile Information

  • First Name
    David
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Estate TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Essex

Previous Fields

  • Location
    LONDON

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  1. OK Trev I will take back sales ploy and admin it has an automatic CLUTCH. All I am trying to do is let car buyers know what they are getting when they purchase an automatic car. They can google POWERSHIFT PROBLEMS and get to know the disadvantages of the automatic clutch and why torque converter is the best. I sure you will have no problems with your BMW ZF gearbox. Best Regards Dave
  2. Cheers Trev, this information is priceless, thanks for taking the time to post it, you seem to be very clued up on the subject. Jono2009 said the petrol Mondeo autos are torque converters, I admit I wasn't aware of this. I have always preferred a diesel and was hoping to just have the same TDCI but new 2020 version, but might check out the petrol model as Euro 6 emission standard may be better for London driving. If Ford had fitted letters DCT on the back of cars instead of POWERSHIFT customers would have asked what is was and realised it was not an automatic after being told it was Dual Clutch Transmission. POWERSHIFT seems to indicate automatic, a typical sales ploy. That's why I included POWERSHIFT when writing this post, it gets attention. Even though the PS has pressure release on the clutches when car is stationary in traffic, when creeping along slowly and stopping and starting the clutch is still operating and getting hot and shortening its life, torque converter has none of these problems.
  3. POWERSHIFT was originally designed for Formula 1 racing cars for very fast gear changes but you don't get traffic jams on a racecourse. Try being in a 2 hour traffic jam on the M5 on the way to Devon, the creeping stop and starts are not good for PS as the clutch is constantly slipping and overheating, you will need A/C permently on to stay cool in the car. Pulling a boat up a steep ramp will definitely overheat the clutches and you could get a large repair bill. Best to join the AA, they will get you home.
  4. For everyone out there the ZF gearbox is the best automatic you can buy, it is complete with a torque converter. Hopefully soon to be fitted in a Mondeo.
  5. I notice you have a 2012 s max, is this a POWERSHIFT gearbox. Have you read the bad reports on this type of gearbox and did you change the gearbox oil at the specified mileage ( if you do have powershift ).
  6. My reliable 2004 Mondeo Estate Auto gearbox has done 190,000 miles and never had an oil change or problems and I tow a 1.5 ton boat. This type of gearbox has a fluid coupling ( torque converter) which is a genuine auto with no clutch to wear out. Later Fords and many other car makers use a POWERSHIFT gearbox which is NOT an automatic, it is a MANUAL gearbox with TWO CLUTCHES which have plenty of expensive problems. Type on google POWERSHIFT PROBLEMS you will see many reports. This gearbox has to have expensive oil changes every 35,000 miles and if you tow a caravan or boat the DUAL CLUTCH will not last long, as the TORQUE CONVERTER is missing. Hopefully Ford will ditch Powershift in 2020 and sell genuine autos with TORQUE CONVERTERS. I will be keeping my old reliable Mondeo until Fords gets back to normal. Thought you should all know the difference before buying. Regards Dave
  7. FORD POWERSHIFT AUTOMATIC GEARBOX COULD GIVE TROUBLE. NOTE: I have always recommended Ford Automatic cars because of the reliability of my 2004 MONDEO Estate. It has now done 190,000 miles with just engine oil changes at every 12,500 miles. The automatic gearbox has never had an oil change and never given any trouble and I tow a 1.5 ton boat. This type of automatic gearbox has a Fluid Coupling ( Torque Converter ) which is excellent for a tow car as there is no clutch to wear out. Newer Mondeo's or any Ford will have a POWERSHIFT automatic gearbox which is NOT a genuine Torque Converter gearbox. It is a MANUAL GEARBOX with TWO CLUTCHES which have plenty of expensive problems. Type on google Powershft problems you will see many reports. It has to have very expensive gearbox oil changes every 35,000 miles and if you tow a caravan or boat the DUAL CLUTCH will not last long as there is no TORQUE CONVERTER. I will be keeping my very old reliable MONDEO until it eventually stops working and hopefully by then Ford will have ditched Powershift and gone back to a normal torque converter gearbox. I will not be buying until torque converter is back. Thought you all should know this. Regards Dave
  8. This automatic gearbox belongs to my 2004 Mondeo TDCI Estate but most other automatic cars could have same fault, unable to move shift out of park and have very similar parts. The shift lever will only be able to move when an electrical solenoid valve has 12 volts on it to unlock the lever. This solenoid is fitted in the lower part of the lever consul. The 12 volts comes from the brake lights, so first thing to do is CHECK THE BRAKE LIGHTS COME ON WHEN YOU PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL. If brake lights work, start taking the lever consul apart and repair the solenoid valve which is just dirty electrical contacts. Follow the numbered photo's below, it's very easy to get apart. Photo 1 : Remove both side panels of the centre consul, the drivers side and the passenger side. There is only one short 10mm long screw holding them on . When screw is out pull the panel towards you from the top, there are 5 clips at the top holding them on. Photo 2 : Start at the left hand rear of the fascia panel. lever it upwards with small sharp screwdriver, it will easily come up all along the bottom side. Photo 3 : Further up on left had side, start to lever this part outwards. Photo 4, : Remove top of the shift lever, it's a 3mm Allen key Photo 6, 7, 8 : Carry on CAREFULLY pulling out the top part of the fascia, then it will lift up. DO NOT bend the bottom side up too high as it will snap in half. I pulled the rubber surround out first but this rubber must be fitted same way round, the cutout on the underside of this rubber faces towards the back. Photo 9 : There are 10 screws to remove, to get the black surround off. The red blobs are where the screws are, the two large red blobs are at the lower point and screws might be difficult to see, they are 30mm long screws. Two screws are on the drivers side and two on passenger side, move seats back to get at the screws. These screws are about 12mm long. Photo 10 : Pull out the drink holder. Photo 11 : I unclipped the chrome surround but it's not necessary to remove this. Just lift up the middle part but be careful as there is a plug to move, marked on photo. Also pull out all of the rubberised polystyrene insulation. Photo 12 : This shows the socket part of the plug with wires attached has also to be removed from holder, not just the top part of the plug. This was a bit difficult for me as I did not realise the socket part was attached to the surround. Photo 13 : Look at the part you just removed. Note the white slider, this is the manual way to operate the solenoid valve. The chrome lever surround has an 8mm dia cap, near the P, to remove so a screwdriver or thin pen can be pressed downwards on the white slider to operate the solenoid. Have you found the solenoid yet. At this point you should understand how the shift lever unlocks to move to drive. Photo 14 : This is the solenoid valve to remove. There are only 2 screws to unscrew, the back screw is under the metal frame and was difficult to remove. Only a watchmakers screwdriver will remove this screw, look closely at the back screw in this photo, you should just see the thin screwdriver on the screw head. This photo is out of order, note new screws fitted. Photo 15 : The cut down watchmakers screwdriver fitted in a socket set. Maybe you could just bend a thin screwdriver 90 degrees to remove this screw. Photo 16,17 : The solenoid valve is in 2 halves riveted together. You must now carefully drill out the 2 rivets and look inside. Photo 18 : This shows THE FAULTY CONTACTS that stop the solenoid working. Switch on the ignition and press the brake pedal. Touch the contact with your finger, you should hear and see the solenoid work ( it's only 12v you will not get an electric shock ). Photo 19, 20 : Switch off ignition and pull off the 3 wires so you can remove complete solenoid and clean contacts with emery paper and drill out rivet holes and fit 2 new screws to hold the two parts together. Photo 21, 22 : Note new screws have nuts visible at the top. If nuts protrude at the underside the solenoid valve will not lay flat. Make sure wires are fitted in correct order, see photo. Now switch on ignition again, press the brake and make sure the solenoid valve operates. Photo 23 : The White plastic part next to the shift lever drops downwards when lever is in park and pushes the solenoid so that the buzzer stops and you can remove the ignition key. Photo 24 : This just shows the chrome surround with manual hole open so you can see how to manually operate the solenoid valve to move the shift lever to get you home. Reassemble in reverse order and hopefully have job satisfaction that you have saved lots of money. Good Luck and Best Wishes Dave
  9. The Diagnostic Tester I used is AUTEL AL301 Autolink OBD2 and is still on Ebay at £19.99. There are more expensive AL301's but I found this cheaper version to give the correct fault code. NOTE: some codes are not stored if you switch off the ignition, so I plugged in this tester with ignition still on. Regarding replacing the CRANKSHAFT SENSOR . My Mondeo has an Automatic Gearbox where the FLYWHEEL is bolted DIRECTLY to the engine. If you have a Manual Gearbox The FLYWHEEL is RUBBER MOUNTED to the engine which is proved to be NOT a good idea. The rubber gets weaker with age causing the flywheel to touch the Crankshaft sensor and damages the sensor. First sign of weak rubber mount is iron dust on the Crankshaft sensor or if this sensor has to be replaced more than once. Changing the rubber mounted flywheel is expensive at about £600. I still have my Auto Mondeo which is still running perfectly with 180000 miles on it so thats why I recommend purchase of Automatic.
  10. First thing to do is go on Ebay and purchase a camshaft position sensor and a crankshaft position sensor from " Transitpartsuk" both items cost around £10 each. Camshaft sensor fitting is a very easy 5 Mins, the crankshaft sensor is difficult to find if you don't know where to look. Remove the battery and battery box and the air cleaner box ( 5 min jobs ) the crankshaft sensor is hidden under the silver 1inch dia tube that is now seen and is easily replaced from the top NOT under the car. If the car still cuts out with the glowplug light on and it cuts out when going VERY FAST its a sign of fuel starvation. Try driving at a steady 40mph, does it still cut out, if OK, fault could be blocked fuel filter causing the fuel starvation or injector leakback valves leaking as I experienced. Type On Google " MONDEO TDCI 2004 MORE CUTOUT PROBLEMS ALL FIXED NOW " for more details. Good Luck Dave
  11. I have owned my Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Ghia X Estate Tiptronic Automatic since new and it has not had any serious problems at all. I would recommend that you do not rush in and purchase a manual model but to wait for an automatic. You will not regret having an auto and would never go back to a manual car after the auto experience. The tiptronic gearbox also has the manual mode where you can manually change gear yourself by touching the gear stick up or down or by the + and - buttons on the steering wheel. Also its a good tow car as you can hold a gear on manual mode. My car has now done 170000 miles with no problems at all on the auto gearbox. The 2.0 TDCI engine is also a brilliant design and reliable. I have had a few cutout faults which I managed to fix myself and at 155000 miles I had the injectors reconditioned which again was very easy. With any faults on cars you have to have confidence to fix yourself, think if a garage can do it you can too and save lots of money. Discs and pads are very easy to do yourself and very low cost, but make ramps using 4 X13 foot secondhand scaffold boards £5 each. ( See photos on pinned write ups ). If you view the 2 pinned write ups at the top of this forum "How to change the Alternator" and " Flashing Glowplug and cutting out" you will get to know a few faults and how to fix them. Best Regards Dave
  12. My previous cutout problem was when overtaking and was caused by low fuel pressure ( or fuel starvation ) in the common fuel rail due to worn out leakback valves in the injectors All OK when driving up to 60 mph and cured by reconditioning the injectors which is really just renewing the leakback valves inside the injectors. Read more in my forum write-up ( top of the list ) I now have a new cutout problem (flashing glowplug and instant engine off ) and was more difficult to fix. When I started to investigate my previous overtaking problem I changed the usual Camshaft Position Sensor WHICH DID NOT CURE ANYTHING then I found the injectors were the cause. This time I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor WHICH AGAIN DID NOT CURE THE PROBLEM. Note: These Crankshaft Position Sensors are difficult to find if you don’t know where to look. Take out the battery and battery box also take out the air cleaner box complete ( 2 minute jobs ). You will find the cable to the sensor behind the silver EGR pipe and the sensor is very easy to change from the top ( not under the car ). I noticed in the morning when the engine was cold it took about 5 miles before cutout occurred. It would not start straight away but after waiting about 2 minutes it would start again but then not last long. I suspected a heat problem so took out the engine thermostat but it still cutout after same time. I disconnected the cylinder head temperature sensor ( same sensor for reading the gauge on instrument panel ) but still no difference. When trying to start I loosened the high pressure pipe to one of the injectors and high pressure diesel squirted out. This proved there was no problem with the fuel pump. I was then just about ready to give up and take the car to the scrap yard when I realised I still had the original Camshaft Position Sensor. I fitted this original Camshaft Position sensor ( black one ) and car started first time and is now fixed. NO MORE CUT OUT PROBLEMS. The defective Camshaft Position Sensor was purchased NEW on ebay and was the modified Grey type and only lasted just over a year but only cost £ 9.99. If purchased from Fords they are about £40 each but still might not be reliable. The moral of this story is to purchase 2 of the cheap £ 9.99 Camshaft Position Sensors and keep inside your car together with the socket to fit them. Its less than 5 mins to fit them, right at the front of the engine below the oil filler cap and a bit right . This will save you a lot of aggro and money. If you need more advice just ask. Dave
  13. My car has the fuel pump on the engine NOT inside the tank. Petrol cars normally have the pump inside the tank. You must have a diesel as you have a flashing glowplug. Luckily you fixed it by changing the filter.
  14. No I didn't take any pictures this time. Once the door inner panel is off and you turn on the hose pipe you will soon see what you have to cover up. It is normal for water to get inside the door just make sure it comes out of the holes at the bottom, on the OUTSIDE of the rubber seal on the bottom of the door frame. I found with the speaker removed from its hole in the door ( no need to remove the 2 wires ) the water did NOT get INSIDE the rubber seal, but as soon as the speaker was pushed in place the water dripped on to it and then dropped INSIDE the seal. This is probably the reason that some speakers don't work. The water has corroded the wiring connection. Easily fixed with a minature shower curtain hooked onto the speaker studs at the top.
  15. I had water in the rear footwell of my 2004 Mondeo and was easily fixed. The water came in though the horizontal window weather strip ( where the window slides up and down ). Even a brand new weather strip will not stop all of the rain water getting in. It hits the SPEAKER and drops INSIDE the sealing rubber at the bottom of the door frame then fills the footwell. All you have to do to fix it is to remove the door inner panel ( 5 minute job ) and with a hose pipe you will see the water dripping in above the speaker. I found a roll of 5 inch ( single brick ) damp proof membrane in my shed. This is thick plastic but any thick plastic sheet will do. I cut 3 lengths ABOUT 16 inches long X 5 inches wide. The speaker has 2 studs at the top. Make 2 holes the same width as these studs at the top of the three 5 inch strips. Or just cut a fan shaped bit of thick plastic sheet 5 inches at the top X 16 inches down and about 12 inches wide at the bottom. Remove speaker, then position the 3 plastic strips ( LIKE A FAN OPENING WIDER AT THE BOTTOM ) at the top of the speaker on the studs so that the water does not touch the speaker but runs over the strips like a raincoat and ends up on the outer part of the door panel and then drips out of the normal hole at the bottom of the door. That is all I did to fix the leak on one back door but I am sure all doors can be fixed the same way. Good Luck Dave