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Dan62

True Ford Enthusiast
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Dan62 last won the day on July 24 2010

Dan62 had the most liked content!

About Dan62

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Profile Information

  • First Name
    J
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta
  • Ford Year
    2003
  • UK/Ireland Location
    London

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I have read before where fiesta's of this age don't have the high speed relay in the battery relay box and don't have the cooling fan resistor, but do have A/C. Seems only 1 relay in the box which must be the WOT A/C relay.
  2. Its a sensor, not a switch. The sensor is a resistor (NTC) which connects to the PCM. The PCM uses the sensor for the temperature gauge and for switching on the cooling fan. If the sensor is either disconnected or shorted out, the PCM will start the fan, it will also bring on the engine management light and log a DTC. If it was a thermal switch I would agree with you, but its not. And I don't think it will be a stuck relay either as turning the ignition off stops the fan.
  3. Above description is incorrect. If the temperature sensor is disconnected the fan will run continuously. It is a fail safe feature. Seeing that you have just obtained the vehicle, I would check that the engine management light works. It should come on when you turn the key to position II and go off when the engine is started..
  4. How many relays do you have in the relay box by the battery?
  5. Its behind the inlet manifold....See the last couple of pictures from this link, with the throttle body removed you can see the PCV pipe and the valve
  6. The BCM and PCM are end points for the BUS, the BUS is terminated at the end points with 120 ohm resistors. Without a wiring diagram you would have to reverse engineer the circuit, starting at the obd port which is the only connector you know for sure is the right BUS, pins 6 & 14
  7. You'll need to go through the process again. Very odd that the resistance is now so low. At least you know your way around the connectors now.
  8. The problem not working with an accurate wiring diagram. Looks like you'll have to check wire continuity from plug to plug for each wire to check you're on the right BUS.
  9. Just gone through the posts again. Looks like the black plug with wires going through the bulkhead is the one I thought we were still searching for . Leave the Black plug disconnected and now working under the bonnet check the CAN BUS resistance at the ABS connector, it should be 120 ohms with the PCM connector plugged in. Forget about the BCM and obd end, you have verified that is ok. If the above test is 120 ohms the break is between the black plug and the ABS connector. If its high resistance or open circuit the break is in the engine bay.
  10. From what you have checked I would say the white/blue wire is broken between the black connector and the engine compartment. As previously mentioned there should be another connector inside the vehicle, A pillar / bulkhead area which is where you need to look next.
  11. Not sure then. The Fiesta has a pipe behind the manifold attached to the engine and that then connects to the lower left hand side of the inlet manifold. This pipe eventually splits and causes what you describe. Not sure the Focus uses the same arrangement but again you must have a vacuum leak for the engine to have high rpm.
  12. Sorry, I don't understand what you have written. See attached diagram, it might help. hs_can.pdf
  13. Check the pipes around the inlet manifold, one has been knocked off or it has split. For the engine to rev you have air entering the manifold other than through the throttle body or IACV. This engine has a mechanical throttle body so resetting the ECU is not relevant. Good luck.
  14. The switch appears to be attached to the selector mechanism so your problem might not be the switch but a worn selector mechanism. https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/99/no/3/1512/15113/65551/
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