Vendee

Budding Enthusiast
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    203
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About Vendee

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Paul
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost 125 Titanium (qty 2)
  • Ford Year
    2015
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Norfolk

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. You could be right. It looks like we both have 2013 models so the batteries are getting on for 6 years old. I'll probably keep mine going for a while because the stop/start system isn't a "must have" for me. Thanks.
  2. The BMS reset works on mine and the stop/start system is fine for a couple of days, then it stops working again and I have to do the BMS reset again. I'm not really bothered but it would be interesting to know what module is causing the BMS to fail all the time.
  3. The video is from a later model than mine. I found this old post from Iantt and found that it did work. its essentially the same procedure but explained a bit better (no offence). "Ron, if you want to have a go at reseting battery monitoring, just do as follows Ign on for 10 secs, press rear foglight switch 5 times, press hazzard switch 3 times, wait 10 secs. Battery light flashes. Ign off use car, and see if that fixes"
  4. Doesn't work for me either.
  5. Its hard to say for certain but if the alternator has been changed in the past week and you say the noise is there with the engine running and the car stationary, chances are your problem is related to the alternator or the aux drive belt and its tension. It would help if you stated what engine type/size you have in your fiesta.
  6. I found that the Momentum price offset roughly breaks even for me. I started using it a couple of years ago because it extended my range. With Momentum I could mange to fill up once a week. Without it I was filling up every 6 days. I hate wasting time in the filling station.
  7. My 2013 125 Titanium has 38k on it. It has been quite good. 4 new tyres and front pads/discs. Turbo pipes had early signs of corrosion so cleaned up and painted. Wife's 2015 125 Titanium has 22k on it. 2 new tyres... that's all.
  8. Thanks for that. Later when I saw that some of the clear units were genuine Ford parts, I realised that they must illuminate red.
  9. I was checking all my lights today prior to MOT and found my spoiler mounted brake light wasn't working. This is a LED unit and luckily I was able to swap this with my wife's Mk 7 to confirm it was the unit and not the wiring. I've left the good light fitted for the MOT (even though its not a legal requirement to have the 3rd brake light working) but I would like a replacement at some stage. Looking about, most of the new ones on ebay are clear as opposed to my existing red one. Do the clear ones illuminate red when operated? Cheers.
  10. You need something like this:- click here to secure the wheel to the threaded fixture on the bottom of the spare wheel well. The fixture in the link I gave is quite expensive so I would try and get one from a scrapped car. Have you found that your spare alloy sits quite high and that the boot floor cover doesn't sit properly? The wheel well was designed for a space saver wheel and you can buy one of these quite cheaply. They fit perfectly in the space and weigh a lot less than a full alloy. Don't forget you will probably need a jack. Here is a link to an ebay listing for the space saver wheel, jack and the screw fixture for holding it in place:- Spare Wheel Kit
  11. This is the Fiesta forum. You need to post your question in the "Focus" forum and you need to give more details i.e. engine size, mileage, service history etc. From memory of my Focus days, misfires were common relating to the ignition system. Coilpack failures were common and plugs, leads and coilpack needed to be changed all together. Plugs should be NGK gapped to 1.0mm. As Dezwez says, try get a OBD2 reader to get any codes.
  12. Ford filters are "Motorcraft" brand. Motorcraft is a division of Ford.
  13. The 1.6 zetec engine was generally quite good but a proportion of them suffered from a broken oil control piston ring. The cause of this was never proven but many thought that a history of high revs on a cold engine was the cause. You are right..... it is not really economical to repair unless you can get a cheap engine from a scrapped car. Even then, there is no guarantee that the replacement engine is any better. Most people just source a supply of cheap oil and keep topping it up until the consumption gets really bad. Sorry.
  14. The problem is that paint will not adhere properly to FeO and its sheathing properties are greatly diminished with a good chance of break through.
  15. It will continue to corrode under the paint. Perhaps not as quick as if it was exposed, but it will still corrode.