• Announcements

    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


Members via FB
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About T140v

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Interests
    Classic Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

684 profile views
  1. Hi Stuart.

    I have now bled the clutch actuator. I did not remove the U clip from the bleed valve. Hence why I could not put fluid in but could draw it out. Fluid now pushed in. It starts. Goes into gear, drives. I have had it in 1st and reverse so far. As I am uninsured on the car it cannot leave the track at rear of house. It does however... seem to push a bit too hard (or are the brakes weakened?). And it stalls if I don't ride the brake pedal lightly. But worried about testing on the open road. Do you have any ideas about it?


    Look forward to a reply at your convenience.


    Best regards.  Ian.



  2. Hi T140v (Stuart).


    I wonder if you can bless me with pure rational logic as I am green as a cats eye. I had the same clutch actuator problem. Had it rebuilt etc. Reverse bleded my system drawing fluid out the bleed valve on gearbox and topping up reservoir. I did this because the valve wont let me inject fluid in, but it will let me draw fluid out. So. Deleted error codes. Started car. Nothing in auto. Tried reverse BIG crunch. Checked error code. Got a 'Gear shift position' code. Wiggled stick. N light on. Deleted error code. Transmission light off. Back to where I started. What have I done wrong? It won't let me force fluid into bleed valve. I have tried and tried. I know I am close but can't get fluid into actuator.


    Would really appreciate some feedback.  Ianelliot2@gmail.com



  3. Hi , if you bled the clutch with a pressure system connected to the fluid reservoir then there is still air in the ECU, the system needs to be reverse bled pumping fluid into the nipple on the gearbox, took about 3 X 50 cc syringe full of fluid to do it. Remember to remove some from the reservoir before you start or you will have fluid everywhere. And yes mine went bang when I tried to go into reverse, but was fine after the reverse bleed.
  4. That is the part to remove, and send it all to http://www.ecutesting.com/?gclid=CLjZ0KvGnsgCFUJz2wod1acKiw they offer a very competative price and turn round. When you refit the ECU unit and connect all fluid lines etc you need to empty the clutch fluid reservoir then reverse bleed the clutch system from the nipple on the gearbox bell housing, I used a large syringe, you can hear the bubbles moving through the unit, you will need to open and shut the bleed nipple when refilling the syring. Keep and eye on the level in the reservoir , and ensure it is at the correct level when done. That should fix your problem and the warning light will go out once the car has been driven a few times. Regards and good luck Stuart.
  5. Evening Luke, if you move the rubber boot round the connection and have a look it is possible to disconnect this when the other 4 bolts have been removed the bolt that is seized just clamps the connection to the shaft. you need to move it about a bit to get it to disconnect but it goes back into position easier than it comes out. Good luck. Stuart
  6. A happy conclusion to the durashift nightmare, had another go at bleeding the ecu/clutch actuator this afternoon removed battery etc for easy access to the bleed nippple and used a 50ml plastic syringe (removed 3 syringes of fluid out of the reservoir to make room) and some 6mm rubber petrol pipe, and forced the fluid in through the bleed nipple I could hear the air being moved round the system, when the syring was empty I shut the bleed valve untill another full syring was attached and opened up and emptied the syringe, did it one more time put averything back together started the car all lights came on then went out as they should tried into forward went into 1st no problem, tried reverse, no probs so backed off the ramps. Got the wife to test drive it as she uses it mostly, says its OK. No thanks to Ford who wanted to charge me £1760 parts with no guarantee that it would work and charging me £80 to put it on the computer and not be able to identify the problem. Thanks to www.ecu-testing.com who repaired my ECU/clutch actuator in a week and S&D transmissions Doncaster identifying the problem.
  7. Thanks Dan, tried in forward, could hear actuators working but would not go into gear then lost LCD gear indicator, had to unplug the ecu to get the lights back on and the car to start. Regards Stuart
  8. Thanks for posting this, it has been very helpfull in tracking down the fault in my Durashift fiesta, the ECU/clutch actiator was faulty so have removed it and had it repaired, any one know the correct procedure for bleeding the actuator and associated pipework have had a go using a pressurised system connected to the fluid reservoir and bled the fluid at the gearbox, got some air out but not sure I have it all as the car will not go into reverse ( gears are grating as if the clutch is not fully depressed) the car has the front wheels on ramps so dont want to try forward. Regards Stuart