LightningMat

Haha, looking good! 1.0 125 Zetec S on order!

You'll love it! Certainly not a "fast" car, but it is quick enough for most roads, is fun to drive and economical too. 1.0 125 Zetec S on order!

You'll need to check the correct pcd (4x108 ). Also, consider the offset, as some offsets can cause issues with tyres rubbing or effect the handling. Also, I think you are talking about re-fitting some existing tyres to the wheels, in which case you'll need to know the wheel widths onto which those tyres will fit (you'll be able to Google this). 1.0 125 Zetec S on order!

You can change the oil as often as you like... You could change it EVERY thousand miles... But that would cost a LOT!! Changing it every 5k will certainly ensure you have good condition oil in it, which if that is every 6 months, then that's not too excessive. (Can't comment on the warranty aspects of what oil to be used though). If you are changing the oil regularly, then there is certainly no need for an engine flush - Some of these can actually cause problems if not done exactly right, and (in my opinion) should only be used to solve specific issues with deposits in an engine (usually in older / higher-mileage engines that have not had such regular oil changes).

Seriously, don't be afraid to take it above 5k!... Give it some beans every now and then (when appropriate for the road conditions, speed limits, etc), and enjoy it! It is technically 'impossible' to over-rev, due to the standard rev limiter, so don't worry about it too much (just don't drive around at 6k rpm all the time though!!!)... The most important thing is not to rev the engine too high until it has warmed up properly. As FOCA said though, you will see (and feel) power drop off when you get near the limit, somewhere around 6k, so there is no benefit of going above that, and certainly no need to take it all the way up to the rev limiter.

Nice car TJ, the Metal's are good looking motors.

Yes, seats are totally different. I found the ZS seats actually more comfy than the ST seats... And more comfy than the standard Z seats... (Just my personal opinion). It would seem that MattDRX's arguments "against" the ZS are slowly starting to unravel, as it becomes clear that he never actually owned a ZS in the first place... Making it technically impossible for him to pose a substantiated argument... Ho-hum.

Bonnet strut looks good mate - nice and sturdy... Are you happy with the quality of it - Does it hold the bonnet well? Where did you get it from? - Link please!

That lag of the turbo is perfectly normal at low revs. It is noticeable when the turbo is not spooled-up. You will get used to it quite quickly... You will probably find that you will adjust your driving style ever so slightly to get the most out of the car when coming from an NA to a Turbo.

I like those wheels, they will look good!... Did you not like the ones you painted previously? 1.0 125 Zetec S on order!

Heat soak is where as the engine bay gets hot from the engine, the induction kit sucks in this hot air, therefore actually becoming less efficient (in some cases it can become less efficient than a car with the standard air box fitted. This is because standard air boxes are usually positioned to pull in cool air from outside the engine bay).

The sidelights and the DRL's are different bulbs... The sidelights are 501 / t10 /w5w fitting - loads of options to upgrade, popular option being led bulbs. The DRL's are the same bulb as the main beam, and are the H15 bulb that you are referring to... There are no decent "blue/white" upgrade bulbs currently available that I am aware of. The link you posted is for a blue "cover" that effectively goes around the original bulb - this is supposed to give an effect of a bluer/whiter light, but never tried myself. By the way, the dipped beam are the H7 bulb, and again there are plenty of "upgrade" options available.

Looks very smart... And very clean and shiny! B) Wheels look fantastic too!

No problem, happy to help! I know what you mean though, is very difficult to see some things, so when someone else has already done it, make the whole process a lot easier.

Got some more little things done over the weekend... De-tangoed the front and rear: Bulb Comparison: Before: After: I think the most noticeable difference is on the rear, where it now looks a lot "cleaner" without the orange bulbs. The front bulbs were nice and easy to do, just popped the rear covers off the headlights to access the bulbs and was as simple of just swapping the bulbs out. The rear bulbs were slightly more complex, as you have the remove the entire rear light cluster to fit new bulbs - Easy enough when you follow a guide though - I found one on here and followed that! Next, I applied the DMB gel on the steering wheel: Before: After: I heated the gel and the steering wheel badge before application (used a hair dryer) - Gel was very easy to apply and it certainly seems to be very well stuck down, so no risk of it coming loose any time soon! Next, I removed the "Fiesta" badge from the rear and stuck on "S" badges front and rear: Front - Before: Front - After: I decided not to cut the front grill, instead I padded out the middle of the S badge with some small sticky pads and stuck it across two of the bars on the grill. Seems to be stuck alright, but I will keep an eye on it. Rear - Before: Rear - During (de-badged): Rear - After: I used a hair dryer to heat up the "fiesta" badge on the rear to soften up the glue before removal. I then simply used dental floss to slide behind the badge, and using a slow and gentle "sawing" motion, the badge came off very easily. I peeled off the remaining fixing tape and cleaned up. I Heated up the S badges with the hair dryer before applying, to ensure sticky pads were nice and sticky! Then I took a few more photos... Check out my gallery for more!!