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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Mick J

Budding Enthusiast
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About Mick J

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  • Ford Model
    Mk2 Focus Estate
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  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. Lots of grinding when pulling away

    I am a bit embarrassed having just left the car to stand outside for a couple of weeks unable to think about it, I took it to a local fixer just to be sure, he rang me back after replacing the bolt in one of the engine mountings. I cannot describe how much noise was generated, just like having a box stuck between the car and the road in forward gears, worse on full lock. Thanks to all again.
  2. Lots of grinding when pulling away

    Thanks wilto and isetta, it's an old car and clutch/flywheel/gearbox repairs ain't worth it. I was wishing for that reply 'I had that, just tap the front brake with a hammer fix'
  3. Ford Focus 2007 MK2 Estate 1.8 diesel Just popping round the corner and felt as if I had picked up an empty box under the car, grinding noise etc, stopped and nothing. Turned round and drove home slowly – 1st and 2nd noise continued, not tried other gears. Have jacked up each wheel, all spin by hand no noticeable problems. Finding when in reverse there are no problems and all normal, no grinding, clutch and brakes all as normal. Shift to 1st or 2nd gear pull away and clutch feel strange and a small thump as it comes in, as the car moves the crunching grinding starts, depress clutch and the car will roll with no noise. I am thinking if it’s clutch/flywheel and/or gearbox related then not worth the expense. I am thinking perhaps I am missing something, bearing/driveshaft’s. I would like to know exactly what the problem is without spending to much, good chance the car is scrap but………… Is this a familiar scenario, should I be looking or trying something ?
  4. Cannot edit above post, 'Thinking about your original post - try pushing the cable towards the engine, may help pop the catch off.' I was thinking about the bowden cable not the alarm. The catch you have removed the bolts from holds the bowden in place, metal above the radiator has large keyhole shape cutout, bowden/keybarrel/whiteplastic assembly is fitted first from engine side, catch fits over holding it all together. (on fitting my be better to fit cable/whitepart to catch then fit as one piece, it is possible to check it's all working without closing the bonnet) So if the bolts are out you should be able to push the broken white part and release the catch locators (with the key barrel out of the grill). Once I had opened my bonnet I ran with just the black catch and used a screwdriver in the cross slot to open the bonnet when required, I had cut out all the black plastic in my grill. Also thinking you may be able to get a screwdriver into the catch to release if the bonnets opens a bit, the alarm cable will restrict opening fully.
  5. Just going to bed Simon Well done on the catch bolts, the catch has two locating pins that push into rubber locators, bolts then lock it in place. (although the catch has slotted bolt holes there is only one position to fit it, bumpers below the bonnet seem to wind in and out for some adjustment, all not applicable just now) I expect if you were to get a flat screwdriver or something twix the catch and face of where it's mounted, quarter of a inch should be enough, locating pins are near the bolt positions. Remember a short alarm cable runs into the base of the catch, connector has a little latch on the side - you may get enough of the bonnet open to release it - the cable has some slack (on mine), good luck. Thinking about your original post - try pushing the cable towards the engine, may help pop the catch off. You can see the pins on this eBay catch, near the stars. Bottom part is alarm connector.
  6. Simont001 and for anyone else it may help or has read this far !! I had to cut my grill out, break all the white plastic where it go's through above the radiator and pull all the cable/keypart etc out. This allowed me to use a screwdriver to reach and open the bonnet catch into the small female cross shape slot. I drove around like this for a while, torch and screwdriver to open the bonnet !! Grill like a Piranha - how the local kids did laugh. Let me try and describe the parts: the black catch (inc alarm cables) engine side of the radiator (1.8 diesel unable to reach from under with spanner) has a cross shape slot that receives the cross shape male part, this has locking tags and may be a bit short for the job? (pictures above somewhere). The other end of this part fits into the white part you have broken the outer shell of . My theory is this part pops out of the slots on some and can be pushed back using the screwdriver method above, jiggle the key to start to line up the three parts, who knows it may catch long enough to open the bonnet, you may need five arms or a mate. I never got to that point, perhaps the white plastic part was broken, perhaps the slotted part of the lock was broken. Certainly once I started using a screwdriver to open the lock it became a bit more broken (brittle plastic after all these years?). I ended up replacing the grill, the main bonnet catch both cheap on eBay and instead of using the UK part fitted the euro plastic thing that I am not sure I have any faith in - but it's working. On the Euro part the plastic cross shape male part is solid and snaps into the bonnet catch part (cheap ebay again). I also managed to find on eBay a euro type lock with key (little crab claw thing on back) cheap from China - no rush on this. I managed to remove the split pins from my original and new euro lock, swap the key barrel and used an old coat hanger to replaced the split pins (I am still 'one key fits all'). I now see a 'kit' on eBay or this eBay not available when I did mine, euro parts and euro lock, I would also (if I ever do this again) always replace the black catch part even if it looks good.
  7. Thanks for the advice, Povo, ippy & salsheikh. I reseated and cleaned the oily end of the hose, unable to see any splits if there are any, other end of hose jubilee clip screw is under the hose unable to reach just now. Will replace hose with new and new clips. Should I be looking to replace the front hose as well ? - looks a more difficult manoeuvre !
  8. Looking over the back of the engine I noticed this hose and the oil that is making a mess over the hose and metal under the map sensor hose (I have the Haynes out). I have managed to tighten the jubilee clip slightly. Not knowing much about these things, is there anything I should be looking for or concerned about. Thanks
  9. Ford Focus Mk.2 Estate Boot Water Ingress

    Update to above, soaked the car with the garden hose yesterday, left for a bit and still dry inside so seem to have sorted it. smeared silicone over some of the metal inside using a small paint brush. Cut a bit more off the rubber foot at the rear end of the roof bars to clear the silicone and allow better flow. Just releasing the rear fixing for the roof bar allowed the back of the bar to lift 50 to 60mm, rubber foot just pulls down and off, still unsure how end trim fixes to bar. Rooflining now back in, bigger struggle that taking out, would not recommend, managed to snap one of the push in fixings on one of the covers, catch that one later. I found a tub of builders/paintersanddecorators wipes really good with the silicone, gets it off fingers and bodywork where its not wanted.
  10. Ford Focus Mk.2 Estate Boot Water Ingress

    Pat, I had the headlining out, lot of work, but was really banging my head on this one. I found taking the nut and attached washer from the track at the back and above the rear seat (above middle of door) on each side allowed me to slip a piece of timber under the track and get a good view of the channel. (the bolt is captive in the track and has some rubber seating). I had one track completely off but could not see how to remove the plastic ends, the 2" square rubber part at the rear just pulled down and off. A pin hole and some cracking could be seen on the drivers side channel, just a bit of cracking other side, I was getting water from both sides, drivers side worse. We could spray water into pin hole and see immediately water inside, some running along folds and layers of the steel bracing. Pin hole was/is on the joint where one sheet folds over and joins another. I smeared more silicone sealer over the area yesterday and will be out with the hose pipe later today (April 1st), will add to this thread the final result.
  11. Ford Focus Mk.2 Estate Boot Water Ingress

    Have the same problem on our Mk2 estate, this winter lots of water into the spare wheel tray, rear matt and trim soaking wet !! After hours on the hose pipe, all trim out in back of car, head lining out. I suspect there was always some water getting in !! Resorted to using a small garden spray with pinpoint jet over back of car, no ingress around rear lamps or hinges only higher up towards the end of T tracks, could be seen running across inside layers of steel to drip from folds in the steel away from the cracks/holes. Removed one T track, 3 bolts, but just taking the rear 2 would allow access to channel, as above found small (tiny) cracks and hole in joint under rear end of the T track, covered in silicone both outside and inside, For small holes a large amount of water was let in, I know this winter has been wet - but !! The rubber foot at the rear of the T track pulls off easy and I am cutting the bottom of the flap to allow water to escape quicker, I still have fingers crossed on this, and will keep trim out and silicone gun handy for a few weeks. will update if needed. Hope this helps someone