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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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DONFRAMAC last won the day on July 25 2010

DONFRAMAC had the most liked content!


  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 03/30/1949

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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Mk6 1.25 Zetec Climate '58 reg

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  • Location
    Northern Surfing Capital
  1. Happy Birthday DONFRAMAC!

  2. Car Is Struggling To Start.

    At the age your car is, that is the usual end-life of a car battery. I would shop-around your local Ford Fast-Fit centres for a new one, of a top brand. Some are naff, in terms of warranty, but you can still get Exide, Crompton, etc., plus the Ford product, FOMOCO, which is very likely O.K. However, it could be the alternator also. My wife had a knackered one in her 30 month old Corolla. At least a Ford one is a lot cheaper. Other times it is the charging regulator, not replenishing the battery. If you end up at a Ford centre, have a new battery put in the remote key. They may charge £5-7 for that, even though the CR2032 battery is only £4 for 2 at Tesco (energiser brand -- Panasonic is dearer).
  3. Window Wiper Help???

    When my '58 reg Mk6.5 was over a year old, I had new Valeo blades fitted by our local Citroen mechanic, but less than 6 months later, the passenger-side one started "skipping" across the screen. Poor performance from the top French brand, that is fitted to Toyotas. I went straight up to our local car acessories shop, and got his best ones fitted, for less than £18. He was once the top mechanic in our own Citroen garage, and only stocks reputable products. I have since had a new rear one fitted, also from there, all bubble-packed items. He also sells Haynes manuals cheaper than on-line. I also cleaned the glass with Autoglym Fast-Glass, after trying Sonax Clear-Glass:- Autoglym wins. I have just bought summer-grade Prestone Bugwash Screenwash (use it neat), at £6 at Tesco, £1 more than in Autoexpress feature article. Halfords charge another 99p above this, for this 4 litre of highly reputed American brand. P.S., I don't think renewing rubbers alone is worthwhile, as I recall getting "flip-flop" noises from the old blade frames, as they get older,-- just as annoying as skipping.
  4. Ka Gearbox Problem-Please Help!

    I got a photo off another site, that helps avoid undoing the reverse gear detent bolt,(or 5th, I forget) which is lower down than the allen-socket top-up hole. The detent bolt must not be used for draining, as there is a sprung ball behind the hex-boss bolt, and gear alignment may be lost. The top-up hole is a couple of inches higher, and an inch towards the clutch, and it takes an 8mm allen key. The reverse switch is outside the plastic boxing, about 2 inches towards the clutch, and slightly higher than the top of the fill hole. A two-wire plug is pushed on the spade terminals on the switch body. Remove the electrical plug, and unscrew the switch body, and set it aside, while you use this hole for sucking out the oil. Obviously, the 'box needs to be NOT in reverse. All these features are on the forward face of the gearbox, below the battery. The car was on a hoist for the job. By the way, today I was in a HI-Q diy front shop, and saw that very Silverline brand 4 litre oil sucking pump, with ball-shaped chamber below the pump. This was at "Goodtread Tyres & accessories" in Alness, north of Inverness. They are also motor factors. They quoted me £49 each for EcoConti3 tyres for my wife's Aygo, £4 cheaper than the net, and 4 Denso Iridium sparkplugs for £32, almost £8 cheaper than the net. I hope you have enough info now. I've just paid £22 for professional guidance from "just answer.com" which advertises in this site. Sean correctly pinpointed my centre seatbelt lock-up problem, and it just cost me the trip to my dealer to get a 5-minute fix, and I only need a large torx key if it happens again. So, he earned a tip. The garage was free, but 6 gallons of petrol wasn't.
  5. Ka Gearbox Problem-Please Help!

    I've just found the Ebay LINK to a 4-litre pump, that Dan62 used via the reverse switch hole and got 2.2 litres, replaced it with SMX-S. The seller of the pump was Discount Toolz, Chesterfield, and the product was made by Silverline. (I own a few tools by them, gardening, and mechanical, from a local Ironmonger's.) They have a website for you to register the warranty. Look up Fiesta page 35, 2nd item down.
  6. Ka Gearbox Problem-Please Help!

    Halfords do stock the Castrol SMX-S, at about £13/litre, only 3 bottles needed. There is a posting on the Fiesta part of this Forum that gives a LINK to an Ebay advert for oil-sucking pumps that can go down even the dip-stick hole, the tubing is that small-dia. That AD. shows several capacities of oil receptacle, and prices from low teens to ~ £30. There is a small chance that Halfords stock that kind of oil-change sucking pump. I knew I had drained the 'box well because of the amount of fresh oil needed to reach overflow fron the level/fill hole that is concealed by the black plastic gear-linkage boxing. The oil bottles have a pull-out extension pipe to poke into the fill hole. The correct level is below the hole, by about the short leg of a small allen-key, so a fast fill, will leave some space for the oil to settle lower, and be cautious topping further, using an allen key probe. The main point is to suck out of the reverse-switch-hole, which is higher, bigger, and outside the black box. My mechanic had to repeatedly squash the tube flatter, and push it further down thro' the gear-shafts, catching all the oil in an old white emulsion plastic tub, -- easy to gauge the amount sucked out. The Ebay kits have quoted volume holding. I took a printout of that Ebay products, and gave it to the mechanic who loaned me the diesel priming bulb/pump.
  7. Brake Fluid Change After 10,000 Miles?

    My '58 reg Mk 6.5 Zetec Climate is <10,000 miles, and wasn't even moisture checked at the 2 year service. I am on a 3-year service contract, and expect to be stung for brake/clutch fluid change as an extra, this September, + MoT work (the MoT fee is part of the contract.). I was made aware of the moisture check when I started the contract. I was given very nice loan cars both times, and the car got washed well, and I got better oil last year, -- Castrol Edge 5W30.
  8. Run It In Hard!

    I've alwaws known to extend revs during the 1'st 1500 miles, with the engine hot, and don't use the best fully synthetic oil until you feel the motor loosen, perhaps at about 10,000 miles. I wish I had heard about the biker's advice years ago. At one time cars were filled with a lightish oil for the 1st 1500 miles, but that was a generation ago. 30 years ago, a colleague felt his Escort 1600CVH loosen off, at about 27,000 miles, at the same time he needed a new steering rack. He had been doing a lot of caravan towing, needing rear spring assisters.
  9. In Need Of A Exhaust

    "BOSAL" is a respected Swedish brand, and "TIMAX" is not very durable. Our local McConachy outlet for tyres/exhausts/batteries, sells both. I will just try my Ford dealer first, as I know that my Renaults I owned in the past had very good exhausts, and aftermarket ones only lasted 2/3rds the time, but that was before systems were aluminised, or fitted with catalysts.
  10. Disappearing Oil

    Your mechanic is correct about bore-wear:-- get a cheap replacement engine from a scrappy, and it won't cost a fortune. My scrappy, at Overton Garage, Dyce, Aberdeen, gives a short warranty with its salvaged parts. Sometimes oil is lost via a bad sump gasket, or valve-stem oil O-ring seals. Another route, is via crank-shaft end-seals. Bore-wear at that miles would have to be caused by neglect of oil-changing, or the odometer has been tweaked or replaced.
  11. Fog Light Wattage ? H11

  12. Mark 6 2002 1300Cc Engine

    My Haynes manual for this model shows both these engines are 70PS Rocam 8V engines, but there is also a low power 60PS version, the BAJA, to be avoided. The gearboxes are the modern cable-linkage versions of the IB5. The throttle linkage is also up-to-date. The engine maintenance chapter does not make any differentation between work on any of these engines. (P.S., 60PS is also the power of the OHV Endura E engine, which this chain-drive SOHC engine is based on, I.E.the old Ka engine, which got re-engineered in Brasil, where they use petrol/ethanol blend fuel, requiring some mods.)
  13. Sticking Heated Rear Screen Button

    Just a part panel to come off. Get the Haynes manual, if you really want to tackle it yourself. There is now a manual for the Mk 6.5. I only got an older manual.
  14. Sticking Heated Rear Screen Button

    This is a cold-weather problem. I bought my new Fiesta Zetec Climate in Sept. '08, and went back within a month with this problem (just a quick bit of light sanding of the square aperture in the panel:-- 10 minutes.), plus I had notchy gear-changes. I only cured the g'box last summer by filling the 'box with the correct grade of fully synthetic Castrol SMX-S, 75/85 grade, GL3/4, as currently available from Opieoils. The stuff that came out was obviously different, like the Motul Technosynthese semi-synthetic oil. I would take this job to a small workshop, as I did with my front callipers when they needed fettling, at 1 year old.
  15. Lies And More Lies

    You have pointed to a significant error in your MPG calculations. The enhanced rolling-circumference of the fat rubber on steel wheels totally raises the final-drive gearing of the car, and mess with the calibration of your odometer, as it will now be understating the miles travelled, on all your travels. By the way, running-in needs some revving periods, with the engine hot, to bed-in the piston-rings to the steel bore-liners, and minimise oil-usage, and loosen it up. Driving like an octogenarian is very bad for engines, as bore-wear does not extend far enough up the cylinders, so piston-rings are known to shatter when a younger driver extends the revs.,later. Ultra-gentle driving just polishes the bores, preventing cutting-in of the cast-iron rings to bed-into the steel bore inserts. Once polished, bedding-in can't be done.