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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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About Skezza

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  1. OK, got some good ideas now :P I might get a multimeter on it and try the heated screen. I'll have a route around for the other end as well. It's got to be somewhere.... hopefully :P
  2. OK. Well, I'll check the nozzles for a white wire then. That said, even if I find it, I've still got to find wherever the other end is. I have no idea right now.
  3. OK. I'll have a look at the washer nozzles and also the washer bottle. I assume it's the nozzles that are heated as opposed to the bottle itself. If I can find the other end I'll just solder it together and assume whatever it is starts working again :P Strange that it looks as if someone has cut and then stripped it though. Maybe that's just how it was caught. Obviously hasn't been connected in a long time though because the core has started to go rusty. I'll have to cut away the corrosion. Now I just need to find the other end :P That's the tricky bit.
  4. To be honest, I've not had chance to look yet. We both work full time and as you can imagine, the last thing she wants when I get home is me routing through her engine bay. Plus, I've somewhat put it to the backburner seeing as there's other issues that need fixing with the car. Passenger door handle has failed miserably and the heater control valve needs replacing still. Ahh. Heated washers. Now that is interesting. Go with me for a second here. Because this is a luxury Ka... (apparently, right now the only luxury is the problems caused by the previous owner) it comes with a 'heated front windscreen'.... or does it? I thought it did because that's what the little button on the dash seems to suggest. Did Ford put out cars with both heated washer nozzles and heated front windscreens? Or is it more likely to be heated washers controlled by the button on the dash? Stoney, any idea where that wire goes? Is there a better way of routing it or shall I just find the other end solder it up and heatwrap it like any othe wire?
  5. Can You Bump Start Newer Fiesta's(mk7)?

    Thought as much. I very rarely jump start a car with the donor vehicle running. Unless your donor cars battery is absolutely nailed, there's no reason it cannot start both cars comfortably and the donor car in this case is my VW diesel which has a big chunky battery that I replaced at Christmas, so really was no need to risk anything by running my car at the same time.
  6. Hello, I am slowly wading through the jobs on my missus Ka. Whether it's servicing it, or replacing flexi pipe, next job the passenger door handle doesn't open and also we need to work out why the Air Con is as dead as a doornail.... although maybe this is the answer to that one. Last night, I put some valve lifter treatment in, as recommended by delboy, and spotted this random bare wire hanging around in the engine bay. It's from the drivers side, sort of behind the strut as you'll see in the photo. It was dark so I couldn't really see where it was coming from properly. Off the top of your heads, can anyone tell me what it is? I did wonder if someone had fitted HID's in the past because the plastic casing looks a bit cheap and naff, but right now it's really hard to tell. I will have to wrap it with some tape and start tracing it, but let's see what you guys say first.
  7. Can You Bump Start Newer Fiesta's(mk7)?

    Thanks for the replies guys. Much appreciated. Certainly explains my inability to get it going. @DieselPig, no need for the code in the end. After my friend drove it work (a good distance to be fair), and left it for a few hours switched off, the radio was fine on his drive home. So all sorted in that regard. I'm no Ford expert at all, but I wonder if the lack of battery charge meant the smart system didn't fire all the instruments and electronics or unnecessary peripherals? I've seen a similar system on another car. @mintalkin, he's driven the car a few times now and it all seems ok but I'll keep an eye out. Why would it surge though? The donor vehicle (mine) was switched off, so there was no unnecessary charge flying around from my alternator or whatever. We hooked the donor car battery, gave it 30 seconds, fired it up and then disconnected. Surely the fact that the donor vehicle was totally switched off means the conditions were very similar to that of a regular start when the battery isn't depleted? I'm only asking for future reference, not to be difficult. It's a tricky one of course. He was already on the verge of being late for work and hooking up a slow charger really wasn't an option.
  8. Hello, Firstly, I'm not a Ford guy at all, I'm a VW guy, but my missus has a KA, so I sometimes pop on here. Please forgive any of my ignorance :P My house mate owns an 11 plate MK7 Fiesta. Last night, he stupidly left the key in the ignition, all night. He woke up and the battery was dead as a doornail. No instruments, no starter turns, nothing. Quite surprising, I figured with all this technology someone might have put in a check of some sort to prevent your battery from going flat. Anyway, I tried to bump start it (I've bump started plenty of cars) yet it didn't want to fire at all? I've been able to bump start cars with as much as a little nudge, yet despite being on a steep'ish hill, I simply couldn't get this going. I'm just wondering what with the modern immobilizer systems and what not, whether it's not possible to do on the newer Ford's? To me, the mechanics behind bump starting car is you're simply replacing the starter motor with different kinetic energy, so there's no reason it shouldn't work? Anyway, ended up jump starting off my car it because he needed to get to work and was already late. All fairly straightforward although the radio is dead (it's on but there's no sound) so I wonder if we've blown a fuse in the radio? Or perhaps not enough juice in the battery to fire up the whole centre console? Surely once the car was running the alternator should have handled that though?
  9. How Necessary Is The Flexi Pipe?

    Oh I see, yeah that does make sense. I hate the thought of welding under a car though, especially if it was on !Removed! axle stands!!! Plus, it's not always that easy to get a perfect bead around the pipe. I wonder if anyone has tried using something like chemical metal or JB weld, then using a small band clamp to ensure it doesn't move? The only issue I see with that is the limited length of metal coming off those weldable flex's. She's a very lucky girl. I say that £80 to £120 to replace was what we were quoted, not including VAT, however some garages are charging up to £200 for this job. Yep, it took a few hours, and I've covered in cuts, but it's worth it :D
  10. How Necessary Is The Flexi Pipe?

    I did think about trying to get the clamps upside down (just for neatness), but the rain was coming down hard and I was rapidly losing interest :P Why can't you clamp a flexi on? So long as the flexi is under the car it should be possible right? I know some cars have the flexi up at the back of the block, which would make it a tricky job. I could have replaced the manifold + downpipe which would have come with a new flexi pipe, but for me, this way was easier, cheaper and in my opinion a bit more modular. I like modular exhaust components. This is another part, where if it fails in a few years (or before the car dies) again, I can easily replace it with not much effort.
  11. OK, so now moving on to the less important jobs. Next job is the passenger door handle. So I'm seeing this is a bit of a recurring theme with these cars. The little plastic hook thing on the back of the door handle snaps off meaning you cannot open the door from the outside. It's pretty evident it's a voided design, because the weak spot is always going to be the bend. So my question, has anyone else tried putting a nice bead of 2-part epoxy around the weakest point, before installing the new handle. To spread the excess wear slightly? My reasoning is, if the gap is big enough (where the hook goes through) you can easily increase the durability by just using a nice amount of JB weld or something similar. I've done this many a time with things that I've known are to be a common point of failure, but I'm yet to see anyone else suggest this which is kind of.... well, odd because most people have had a go at least. I assume you cannot access the two parts by just taking the door card off, otherwise you could epoxy the already broken handle? I assume from the rear you can see the rod to the lock, connected to the hook, but with no access to the handle itself?
  12. How Necessary Is The Flexi Pipe?

    So an update on this: Replaced the flex pipe on Saturday with an aftermarket OEM'ish replacement (as in the ends were the OEM diameters). Wasn't quite as straightforward as I'd hoped but job done in the end, no welding and the car sounds nice and quiet again and has rediscovered a bit of it's bottom end. All done on stands too, so while it was a bit uncomfortable I'd still recommend it over taking it a garage :P My GF's KA is a 2003, so has this exhaust layout: Decided to go for this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161721862276?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Now I know what you're thinking and you can get an OEM style replacement flex pipe with the matching gasket (about £50-£60). http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/1339087 and http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosal-717-877-Exhaust-Pipe/dp/B00CEFFMOS However, you'll still need to cut through the inlet manifold downpipe so there's no benefit from that regard and the gasket was totally seized up. It really was. I think I'd have ended up making the job a lot harder going down this route. There was no way that gasket was coming apart without a fight. The nearest bolt was solid as a rock. After all, the car is over 10 years old. I know some people swear by sticking with OEM, however it's got 103k miles on, it's old, it's geting a bit tatty and it's just a work grinder, so I feel no real shame doing it with an aftermarket part that gets rid of that gasket at the end of the day. I know people have mixed feelings over universal exhaust clamps, but ultimately, Ford OEM recommend one at the downpipe end, so meh, who cares? ;) Got the car up drivers side and dropped it on a stand (you really don't need both wheels in the air). So the first problem I faced, because she'd ripped the entire flex pipe off at the IM end, there was no rigidity to the rear pipe whatsoever. So when I tried to use my chain exhaust cutting tool, it was just flapping about. It was a bit like spreading butter one handed. So, when all else fails, grab the angle grinder eh? I held the pipe while my gf's old man went through the pipe. Wasn't the easiest job because the gasket was knocking the main body of the angle grinder, but we eventually got through it, not the cleanest cut ever but meh, was good enough. Then the rain started. Ha. Of course. It waited until we'd made the car completely immobile before starting (my temporary fix was still just about working after all, that was until we got out the angle grinder lol). Next, I moved onto the manifold downpipe. Nice and rigid, so worked great with my ratchet chain cutter. I'd say it took about 10-15 minutes with the cutting tool, although it would have been quicker if I hadn't undone the ratchet. Got a cleaner cut, although not the cleanest. I made the cut right next to the flex pipe so I knew we wouldn't be short of pipe going into the flex joint. By this point, it was proper hammering it down so not ideal, but we figured we may as well just crack on and not give up. On a dry run fitting the replacement flexi, it would go on the rear pipe, but for some reason, there was a slight deform in the manifold downpipe (only a tiny one). Perhaps I had overdone it slightly with my pipe cutting tool? Either way, it meant that while the new flexi would go over the rear end, it was too tight going over the manifold side. Cracked out the angle grinder again and shaved a mm maybe off the deformed side of the pipe. Just enough to take the kink out of the pipe. The flexi pipe now went on, although it was still pretty tight. So I took it off again and filled both ends of the flexi pipe with generous amounts of silicone quick gasket and slide it over both ends, doing a bit of twisting to ensure the silicone was nicely spread. We tightened up the universal clamps nice and tight (have to be careful though, they can sheer off). Finally, we put a nice generous bead of silicone quick gasket over the both ends of the flexi pipe to ensure nothing was getting in. The rain was pretty mental by this point, and there were thunderstorms!! My trousers were completely drenched. I'm pretty sure the cough I have right now is partly due to it! Left the car for 18 hours, before starting it up. Moment of truth. Started, nice and quiet. Left it to idle for about 5 minutes before taking it for a trip. Get any moisture out. Dead quiet now. Your local garage will charge about £80-£120 for this job (what we were quoted anyway). This cost £20 for the flexi pipe and £2.50 for the silicone quick gasket (of which I still have plenty left). Bargain.
  13. Service Tips

    Very true. Entirely possible in fact. it does look like it could be water. Not ideal. If it was me I'd have run a few litres of cheap diesel oil after the HGF just for good measure. Not liking the fact it's had water running round the engine for the past 11k miles, although I bet the engines nice and clean. No point in changing again so soon to be fair. I reckon I sucked most of it out and changing after 6k will do it some good. I'll also drop it next time I think.
  14. Service Tips

    Unfortunately. I have done the oil change. Why does that explain the gunk out of curiosity? I will change it after 6000 instead of 10k, then in effect it will act as a flushing oil. Cheap maintenance really.