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Dee_82 last won the day on April 16 2019

Dee_82 had the most liked content!


About Dee_82

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    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk 3.5 1l EB 125
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. Turns out my old car, is still going strong, it passed its MOT just the other day, it may or may not have had some modifications on the DPF 🙄 If it were modified, i doubt the new owner would have spent the money to not only install a new DPF but also map it back in again, so all that being the case, it wouldnt appear to have failed any MOTs over the last 3 that being said. Its a risk and if that car did have some mods on the DPF, it probably would have contributed to me getting rid of that car in the first place. Also worth noting, that Tom on here had a hell of a time replacing the DPF with new one, probably easier to get it taken out and cleaned in one of those sonic baths
  2. Grab one of these Then go get Forscan for free If you have a laptop your sorted, if you dont then android should do the job but will cost you a few quid on top of the device, iphones.... no idea, but you can start by getting an android phone 🙂
  3. what did you plug in? not all tools are equal, a lot of ford codes cant be read by a generic reader
  4. If it's a metallic tap tap tap sound I believe it's the fuel pump. Put a screw driver to your ear and hold it on some of the metal parts towards the top right side, looks a little like a bike bell above the oil fill port. It should ring loud in your ear when you hold it on the correct part
  5. On the above linked post from 2016... I fixed itself when I replaced the two fronts as a pair, typically had a side wall puncture on the good one so replaced them both. After that no problems in the wet. I guess their must have been a size difference between them that was just enough to throw it out somehow As to your problem, I've had similar issues in the past with minor systems causing major faults. I had a number of turbo faults at one point ,some of which where resolved by fixing a stuck cruise control button. As Peter said, it's possible it's just shoddy ford programming. That or it's intermittent and just waiting for an appropriately sharp bend to knock it out again! 🙃
  6. The timing belt and pump is a walk in the park compared to that bloomin alternator. Lock it all down with pins, , swap out the belt, pully and pump, torque it up, pins out, (dont forget the flywheel) couple of turns, do the pins line up? yes, good to go, no, adjust belt and try again. If you want o be really anal about it you could count the teeth between markers there really isnt a lot that can go wrong in any case, its better the devil you know imo. Get a new car and your starting from scratch
  7. isopropanol is amazing stuff, usually the first choice for cleaning just about anything 🙂
  8. My MK4 doesn't have that feature, its a company car and its a little lacking on the frills! I much prefer my mk3.5 but its saving me miles on my own car so, happy days!
  9. haha, I know what you mean, mk 3.5 has that auto park thing on it, I used it a couple of times but to be honest I cant bring myself to use it, makes me too nervous! but I admit, the few times I tried it, it was flawless
  10. Helps "Reverse out safely"? I have a solution for that problem that costs nothing at all, learn to park properly 😉
  11. Its Gotta be the Front screen, my 3.5 has most of the bells and whistles on it and my mk4 has a few of the missing parts thats not on the mk 3.5 but sadly it also lacks much of the fancy stuff on the mk3 like auto wipers, the only thing id mod to the mk3 is the Sync 3, I did look in to modding the TSR in to the mk3 but the cost is insane and not worth it. But when you boil it right down, I can do without TSR, I can do without Sync 3, auto wipers, auto headlights etc and pretty much everything else that either of the cars has over the other one but the one thing that drives me nuts when using non ford hire cars is that front window. In the winter, its truly a god send. Best feature ever.
  12. definitely worth checking the other end, I had a hose drop of a clip which interfered in the cable selector a while back
  13. curiously enough, I initially installed 5K HIDs and whilst brighter, they were actually terrible. eventually I installed 4.3K. Its to do with wave lengths and reflection / Scatter / absorption, anyhow, turns out, then the colour of most roads is perfect for making it hard to see 5K light. the Yellow look provides less scatter and thus more light reflected back in to your eyes 🙂 Or something like that. Its all to easy to see that they are brighter up against a wall or a garage door or even looking at them, but bright does not equate to seeing more
  14. unless the laws have changes in recent years, I had HIDs in my Mk 2 focus. they were proper projector jobs, actually cost me a fortune to do properly and totally not worth it but it was fun. well, the permaseal was anything but fine but you get my point anyhow, in terms of legalities, your screwed if your pulled over BUT in terms of MOT, youll be fine. the wording is key, if you have HIDs you MIGHT have auto levellers and washers, if equipped, they must work. That leaves plenty of room to wriggle. I eventually installed the washers but never got around to the levellers, it never once became a problem, in multiple garages.
  15. I dunno about the other guys on here but if a Mechanic said to me, to replace the battery and the alternator based on nothing other than the description of the problem and a vague "check" with a multimeter which results in a vague diagnosis of "overcharging", id take it to another garage. it may well be both. or, it could be one or the other, or even some random electronic issue / starter problem. imo, they are fishing and taking a punt on replacing both of them to fix the issue without spending any time trying to work out what is actually going on. if I were you id either speak to some other folk or do some basic tests your self, firstly pick up a cheap multi meter, connect it up to the battery and position it in the window. with the engine running. turn on all the lights, fans and heaters (including windows) and see what happens to that voltage, it will drop, the question is how much. check the volts in the morning after leaving it over night and when cranking it see what that drops down too. With the engine running, measure the AC (NOT the DC) voltage across the battery Theres lots you can do to narrow down the problem, just takes a bit of time and meter 🙂