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Dee_82 last won the day on April 16

Dee_82 had the most liked content!


About Dee_82

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    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCI 140
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  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. Yeah, those warning lights are particularly important. My old dear drove for miles with what she believed was the handbrake light on, of course on her car that light is also shared with the brake fluid level. NSR rear brake line peeing out fluid through a ruptured metal line. To be fair, it could be made clearer the difference between oil level and oil pressure. I had a hire car (astra) flash up a low level oil warning and since its a hire car and worse an astra I had no intention of spending a moment of my time on it but I spent about 15 min arguing that it was level, not pressure whilst they looked at me as if I was terminally stupid, if a garage cant tell the difference without plugging in a computer then what hope is therefor someone less clued up. Nice one on the new engine, you struck it lucky they didn't kick up more of a fuss.
  2. good question. the short answer is I dont know. the long is that I know on Mondeos up to around 2012 had a dedicated speaker for the front and rear parking sensors but after that point it was the head unit that did the work. if that is the case then you will lose the ability to hear them, the headunit will play back the audio if you can splice in to the correct wires and feed the signal in to the audio input on the head unit. When I had my focus I had aftermarket sensors and a reverse camera. I suppose you could simply pull the head unit out, then pop it in reverse and see what happens, if you still hear it then your good, if you dont then you will need to look up how to splice in to the correct wires.
  3. 1, the wiring will be different, you would need to disconnect it from the BT module and wire it up to the headunit, if possible, id replace it leaving the original wiring intact. 2, it has 3 USB ports, 1 for the DAB, one for USB storage, leaving you with a spare one, wifi and GPS is connected via a SMBs 3, possibly, it works on the same principle but you will need to wreck the wiring to it, my personal preference is to leave the original wiring intact 4 I dont use it at all, It might be useful but I need a 2Amp charger to keep my phone ticking and use GPS, phone etc. soo.. I dont bother, my head unit deals with the music, my phone the GPS, I have a newer car just now and I still use the phone for satnav 5, of the new devices? not a clue, but 1 second is comparable to my one old so assuming its much the same, cold boot times on my old Windows CE was around 4-5 seconds 6, never, but mine was the older eonon unit that used windows CE, CE is usually far more stable, early android ones where horrific, which is why I went for CE, if I brought a new one today, id get an Android one
  4. Id focus on that wiring loom you fiddled with to get it working, trace the wires from origin to destination and try work out what is causing it. if you have a multi meter you could run a continuity test on all the wires, if that doesn't lead to any results, try a resistance check, searching for wires with particularly high resistance. if you dont have a multi meter then unwrap that loom and check the wires, your looking for breaks or discoloured sections, typically swollen with a white bleached look or a covered in a green dust, your looking for problems with the termination of the wires or water damaged plugs, unplug and look for white / green dust around the pins. You really need a multimeter to do it right. you mentioned washing the car causes it, check for water ingress where is shouldnt be, particularly around the PCM, GEM, fuses and electrical plugs . its a needle in a haystack, you need to narrow it down 🙂
  5. you often get what you pay for. essentially you have two choice, windows CE or android.a few years ago android was utter garbage and windows CE was much more stable, CE was limited in its functionality but was bomb proof, in fact I think they used it on SYNC2. However More recent versions of android are more stable and are getting better but is HUGELY dependant on hardware and this is where it gets a bit messy because every Chinese factory in in china will have a cloned version that may or may not be any good and may or may not use CE. with this in mind I would strongly suggest you go for something branded, it will be a clone but you will know what you are getting and you have a company to speak to if it goes wrong I had a Eonon Unit, the first unit I brought had a faulty the DVD drive and they promptly replaced it, never had a problem since. Eonon will not support Ebay Eonon units as they are just as likely ripped off clones of theres then the real deal thats their latest version. the pre-order status is normal, these things are all typically stored in China. Occasionally they store some stock in the UK but only the most popular ones
  6. spot on, when changing the oil filter as well (as you should be) fill the engine to about the half way mark. then start the engine until the oil pressure light goes off. turn it off, let it sit for a few min, then refill to max. that oil filter will hold a good amount of oil in it so if you fill to max then start the car, it will drop a bit which might make you think your losing oil
  7. sorry for the delay. ebay. I think I ended up getting one from a 1.6 HDi of the same age, which is the same engine, I think its only ford that wont let you get the sensor, the 2.0 TDCI is built by the same folk PSA
  8. BG109 or EPR as its now known is good stuff. highly recommend it
  9. you cant just copy the data, the Key is tied to the SD cards serial, so you need to do some jiggery pokery to get your new copy working. or just get it off ebay
  10. you cant use newer versions of Android to read the SD Cards CID (location for serial number) I think they disabled it in android 8 or 9. This means you might need to delve in to the world of Linux to get the correct information from the card in order to make the correct key.... or just spend £20 on ebay and save yourself all manor of hassle 🙂
  11. clear the DTC and see if it returns (no point hunting for a one of glitch that happened 2 years ago!) if its still throwing up that error then its likely the fuel pressure sensor is either faulty or the wiring is damaged. Your not supposed to replace the pressure sensor on these things unless you replace the whole rail but I did it on the 1.6 TDCI without any issues. one thing, what OBD reader did you use. some are better than others and they might omit some ford DTCs
  12. it might be a dodgy solenoid on one of the doors. I had a similar thing happen, it would lock if I hit the unlock button first then the lock button but ive heard of all sorts of issues. basically the solenoid gets gummed up, clean it up and all was good. It might be nothing to do with your issue but its a possibility.
  13. it shouldnt be a nightmare. you need to replace the steering wheel and depending on wiring you might need a new dash loom. then its just reprograming the PCM and BCM adaptive cruse control is totally different and would be a big job.. its not something I would take lightly though, it was straight forward enough on the MK2 Focus but we had ELMConfig, Forscan now does programming so it might be easier now but I think it should be noted that if you do it wrong, you might end up with a huge paperweight and an even bigger bill to get it working.
  14. They shouldnt be given a licence without proper training in the first place. once they have proven they have the competency to drive properly and safely, then if they then choose to drive for 10 hours straight and wipe out some family because they fell asleep and crossed lanes, throw the book at them for all eternity. Just now ill accept that drivers aren't given enough time to learn and so might not know what to expect but thats the problem. hiding it with tech wont help. if we had fully autonomous driving then by all means, but we dont, but so long as its the squashy fleshy stuff responsible for the car and not a piece of silicone (or is It the manufacture thats responsible, or is it the hardware / software designer, or is it the programmers thats responsible or the last person to service the car?) , then we cant take that away from the driver. its the same with this EU speed limit nonsense. It just creates an environment where is acceptable to be a crap driver because tech will save the day. I say its not acceptable to be a crap driver at all and if that means not learning to drive until your 24 and had to drive XXX hours with blackbox supervision and multiple tests / assessments then id be happy my kids had to deal with that if it meant they are a more rounded driver.
  15. id much rather those people who cant drive properly and safely dont drive at all 🙂