Dee_82

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Dee_82 last won the day on August 22

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About Dee_82

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Darren
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCI 140
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. my camera has been working for months, buggered if I can remember where its plugged in but ill check and get back to you. Its not hard to work out though. turn the engine off, leave it for half an hour (dont lock the doors) then go back and see which fuses are not live. turn the ignition on, if it lights up you have your ignition on. the ones that didn't turn off, are your battery on.
  2. Dee_82

    CHARGING SYSTEM SERVICE!!

    Turn the engine on and measure the volts, it should be between 13-14.5, then turn every light fan and other electronic device on and see if it drops. if the car drops to 10-11 volts then you might start seeing problems caused by the alternator not working correctly. It doesn't mean its broken, it could be a bad ground, just needs cleaned.
  3. Dee_82

    DPF Active Regeneration

    Na, I wouldn't bother with that mate. Just thrash it for 20 min or so every now or then. Good long hard drives at a sustained high-ish RPM keeps the DPF doctors away.
  4. Hi Guys Anyone have access to a complete electrical diagram for a Mondeo mk4? ideally a PDF!
  5. Dee_82

    Mondeo Mk4 Throttle DTCs....

    So I replaced the pedal, no effect, it still brings up the same problem monitoring the APP D and APP E they are more or less in sync, sometimes it can show APP E being 0.3% of a difference but more often than not its the same, that sounds like it should be within the margin of error? So it comes back to, do we have the correct voltage entering the pedal. Just to recap, this doesn't kick off when driving about, it only shows when the BCM is tested. If anyone has 10 min, it would be helpful to know what their pedal connectors volts are, especially pin 1 and 2. The pedal has two sensors, im thinking pin 1 and 2 supply the 12v reference and 5 and 6 are the separate monitored lines. Reading about how these things work suggests that when the pedal is pressed one sensor reduces resistance and climbs and the other increases resistance and drops, the PCM then does some jiggery pokery to determine if the pedal is misbehaving. So that being the case, pin 2 and maybe pin 5 looks a little wonky, unless anyone has any other ideas, im going to double check there is no volts on the grounds, ill check resistance with a ground point for good measure. Then if I can find a wiring diagram, check each of the wires and check for resistance to wherever they terminate (I think its the PCM)
  6. Dee_82

    Where’s my EGR?

    TO be fair, there is little you can do to prevent the EGR getting gummed up, its the accumulation of soot and oil vapour from the PCV that builds up and cooks hard. DPFs can be seriously screwed over if not driven correctly, but beyond driving it correctly, there isnt a maintenance procedure to help them. What would be interesting is to see what effect / cost to the environment an EGR has over one that doesn't. I.E Yes you get reduced NOx but you also use more fuel, would reducing fuel also decrease NOx (over the life of the car) and what about other gasses and pollutants? then you have the added cost of repairs, how much pollution / gas is generated from making new parts that wouldn't otherwise need to be made and decommissioning of them (presumably being melted). undoubtedly it would be better to have the devices, but by how much, over the life of a car if it only makes say, 10% of an improvement, is it worth the increase in financial cost of say adding an extra 10% to the cost of the second hand car (from fuel and repairs)
  7. Dee_82

    bike carry help?

    I had this chap https://www.saris.com/product/gran-fondo It was the only one I could reliably attach to my Mk2.5 with Zetec S / ST Spoiler. Genius device if you ask me, id still be using it today on my Mondeo mk4 were it not for the tailgate being made of plastic (skin) that would possibly rip off the car when mounted correctly. It has what on first look appears to be quite a lot of play in the bikes when going over bumps but ive drived hundreds of miles around Scotland with two bikes attached and no weakening or slacking of the straps. Incidentally, ive had it fitted on Older Mondeos, Fiestas and Nissan Jukes (not mine!!) etc. its really versatile. and due to the design can usually clear any spoilers. If you pre rig the top and left side straps you can fit the carrier in about 2-3 min. bike on in 30 seconds.
  8. Sounds a little tappity if you ask me. its over cylinder one and doesn't sound all that dissimilar to a noise I had with the hydraulic lifters, usually fixed for a short time with an oil change.
  9. Dee_82

    Possible turbo trouble

    If he didn't remove the DPF then he injected a chemical in to the air intake. that would have to pass through the turbo then, the engine itself, then back through the turbo to get to the DPF. I Dont believe that they contribute much if anything in the way of cleaning the DPFs if they are full. Firstly the car isnt able to pass air through it, so best case, the chemicals, if they survive combustion, will clean the avenues the air can pass out through, ie, the clear / partially restricted ones. The only way to really clean these things is to remove them and connect them to a high pressure water pump or a ultra sonic bath. You could attempt a forced regeneration with an ELM327 device and Forscan, but that will only work if it can get hot enough. Check the small print on the "clean" you got, be interesting to see if there is anything in there which says something like, if it doesn't work then tough luck.
  10. Dee_82

    Possible turbo trouble

    if you get a Haynes manual it will detail the process for filling it up, but basically, if you look at the rear of the car, you will see a small plastic container strapped up next to it. looks a little like this picture below. Two pipes, a fill and drain pipe, I honestly cant remember which is which but you can just make out one of the connectors on the pic below, its the black rubber bit with a circular end to the right of the tank. The DPF sensor is strapped to the side of the battery box (pic below), two rubber hoses connect to the DPF. one of those hoses runs right next to the oil cooler and can become brittle and snap. By all means check and replace that sensor but I doubt its at fault. More likely the hoses are broken, or and this is something to consider, they didn't clean the can. Did they remove it from the car? if not then there is no way on earth that they could properly clean it
  11. Dee_82

    Where’s my EGR?

    the only way an EGR causes smoke is when it messes with the air fuel ratio so it was never an issue after I had it mapped out of the Focus. before hand it might have had an effect on opacity tests but its fairly common, quite a few folk on here said they had similar results after a DPF / EGR removal, Its not against physics at all, its about a cleaner running engine produces less visible crap and EGR, DPF removal (and usually the associated remap that goes with it) cleaned up my focus no end. in fact it was as clean as it was on its first ever test it had my 2.0 is as clean as a whistle now, it does have a DPF in place which isnt ideal but at least its a simple job to replace on the mondy. the 1.6 was a complete pain in the bum. NOx might be a problem but on the scale of problems its probably not as bad as you might think, deliberately wrecking engines with EGRs isnt cool, especially when the least likely people to afford the repairs are the most likely to end up with the problems. anyhow, point is, no one is going to get done for blanking an EGR just yet, the test measures opacity, not NOx and unless its really obvious its been tampered with, which would be hard to see without taking it apart or connecting up a computer, no ones going to see it as being done.
  12. Dee_82

    Where’s my EGR?

    The opacity test on my Euro4+DPF car got better afer removing the DPF and blanking the EGR... go figure! I did get rid of it though because the DPF can easily be detected as gutted these days so, time to go. my 2.0 TDCI has its DPF intact but the EGR was mapped out a while back, no visible smoke. which makes sense since the reduced combustion temp has nothing to do with soot or smoke of any colour and only in reducing cylinder temps to stop NOx being Formed in high quantities. As for seeing it being modified... they could, but they would need to change the rules again
  13. Dee_82

    Reverse camera help!

    You can pick up cheap NTSC to Pal converts off ebay so dont go spending a fortune on one, just mind what you do though, these things are typically designed for in house so it might require some jiggery pokery to wire in ideally it would be a 12v device in which case with the aid of an inline fuse you could just wire it straight in to the 12v feed powering the camera.
  14. Dee_82

    air con condensation

    Its having a pee.. leave it be. 😉 My old car used to do it loads as well, it just depends on how much moisture is in the air and how hot it is. The only way to get water out of that drain is to have a buildup of water on the evaporator, which can only happen when there is a big difference in air temp between the evaporator and the air, if the air is full of water then it will condensate on the evaporator and will be drained away and dumped on the floor. I suppose if the evaporator is getting so cold and its freezing the condensation before it can drip away. then you might end up with water dripping out later, I suppose that could be caused by a block in the airflow from the cabin fans but you would probably have noticed the reduced airflow
  15. Hi Guys, another day another problem, hopefully someone can cast their eye over this and bounce some ideas around... The two DTCs below crop up when doing a BCM test on forscan. Symptoms are flutters on RPM, sometimes if I dip the throttle and release it, it will drop then spike up before returning to idle. Slight delay in acceleration from peddle press to action. ===PCM DTC P2127:00-2E=== Code: P2127 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch E Circuit Low Input ===PCM DTC P060D:00-2F=== Code: P060D - Internal Control Module Accelerator Pedal Position Performance I monitored the two APP sensors and its mostly the same with some minor variations. disconnected the throttle sensor / switch and cleaned with no effect. Sooo, firstly, Does anyone have a wiring diagram on PDF? cant seem to find a Mondeo mk 4 one anywhere Secondly, if someone happens to have a few min spare could you measure the voltage from all 6 pins with ignition on, engine Off? Not sure of the pin out on the connector but as you look at it with the connector clip on the right 1 - 12.5v 2 - 11.1v 3/4 - ground 5 - 0.14v 6 - 5.1v ill need to backprobe it whilst connected to be sure the peddle is working correctly but it would be helpful to know if whats going in to the peddle is whats supposed to be going in and there isnt a damaged wire. Any help would be great! Cheers