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Dee_82 last won the day on August 22

Dee_82 had the most liked content!


About Dee_82

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCI 140
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. Dee_82

    Timing Belt & Timing Problem Advice

    It does sound that way doesn't it 😕 That Crank bolt shouldn't rotate if its locked off in the hole behind the starter motor and you shouldn't be undoing that bolt with the pins in anyway, as long as the belt was left on when you did it, it should have remained in time but if you took it off first then....whoops. If its only a bit out you might have got away with it, otherwise your valves might be sporting a new look. There is crank locking hole behind the starter motor, the flywheel should have been locked off by removing the starter and there is a CAM locking hole in on the CAM sprocket. Im no expert but if you didn't use the pins then get the cam locked off then wiggle the crank in place. If you did lock it correctly then check the crank position sensor, you might have knocked it.
  2. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    So at idle, its around 0.014v, under light load, its around 0.06v, if I slap everything on it can fluctuate between 0.06 and 0.08. it can sometimes spike to over 0.1v but settles. DC voltage is 14.7v at idle, it can drop momentarily to 13v when turning things on but settles around 14.4 and 14.7
  3. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    The squeal was certainly a new one on me, its not something ive heard before and ive had alternators drop out and die, of course it might be coincidently and just another thing going wrong. The main earth strap was removed and cleaned , I haven't checked the main supply cables from the alternator. Ill give them a clean and reconnect them up. So if one of the phases on the alternator is going wonky due to a nackard diode or something, it would introduce a AC like wave form? across the battery although ideally across the alternator would be best to test? what kind of range would you expect to see? mV's I guess? like yourself im not at all sure this will be the problem since the APP error is with engine off or on.
  4. It might be someone on your skin, as you say, you dont use the top as much as the sides meaning anything you put on it doesn't get rubbed off as much. It could also be to do with the sun / how the car is typically positioned during the day. Ive seen it on a few wheels myself although not quite as bad as that. I guess what im saying is, dont rule anything out, it might not be shoddy build quality, it might be something your doing to it. (directly / indirectly) your skin leaks all sorts of oils and can make a right mess of leather if not kept in check
  5. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    okie dokie, So I have IDS up and running, it reports the same problems with the ABS talking to SASM. In any case pin 6 on the throttle is producing 12.4v, the ground on pin 4 is 0.4 ohms off and 3 ohms with the ignition on engine off. The only one I didn't check is pin 5 which goes off to the PCM Now for something a little odd So whilst I was monitoring the Engine PIDs I started switching on and off various things. When I turned the max window clear button on (fires up max blowers, heat, window demist) the variable vane position changed from a reading of around -50v to -65. Thats not much but it is noticeable. I thought it was simple the engine load increasing but it turns out that if I tried max blowers or window demist , headlamps etc it didn't always do it despite the noticeable change in engine noise. Now for the odd part, then all of a sudden I started getting a metallic engine whining noise, dipping the throttle didn't stop it but a few seconds later it stopped on its own accord, slightly nervous and curious if I could reproduce it by fiddling with the blowers and window heaters, the change in vane position didn't happen at all, nothing at all then changed it unless I dipped the throttle. Something else thats a little odd is last night I could have sworn the headlamps with dimmer, slightly more orange than normal, by the time I got home it was fine but again, just another weird one. My first thoughts was the alternator but its putting out good volts and it can sustain them regardless of the load around the 14.2-14.5 mark. Something IDS did pick up on again was another DTC. u0100
  6. Dee_82

    1.6 tdci engine noise

    Nothing wrong with Gates, the original parts were probably made by them anyway. as for the noise, sounds just like any other 1.6 TDCI ive heard 🙂 The Job is actually pretty simple, a good garage shouldn't be charging you for 3.5 hours unless your paying their tea breaks
  7. Dee_82

    Reversing Lights Not Working

    Handy tip, create a new thread rather than necro bump some old ones. 😉 How about you start by telling us what you have checked? I happen to have just about every wiring diagram for the car due to my own electrical problems so perhaps we can work it what's what.
  8. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    That Makes sense, what you cant see in that picture above is that SSPWM does run off to a relay in the power distribution box (R7) and then the battery, it does enter the CJB but not through internal circuitry. SSAN = Sensor Supply For Analogue N... AS = Analogue Signal GND_A = Ground for AS ( via CJB) GND_PWM = Ground for Pulse Width Modulation PWMS = Pulse Width Modulation Signal SSPWM = Sensor Supply For Pulse Width Modulation So one of those two is not playing nice, its labelled as APP-E in the DTCs ===PCM DTC Code: P2127 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch E Circuit Low Input Code: P060D - Internal Control Module Accelerator Pedal Position Performance In my mind that would narrow down the problem to be on 4, 5 or 6? Just checking the other diagrams, turns out that R7 actually powers quite a bit, R7is controlled by the CJB... IC SASM Yaw Sensor APP (PCM) Sensor
  9. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    So I managed to test the CAN network along each of the nodes, SASM, ABS and Yaw. They all shows around 60 ish across the wires, so in terms of the physical network, it appears to be fine. Since the earthing appears normal im going to take another look at the APP This is clearly a problem and theres only 6 wires that can be doing something wrong, the peddle is fine. Heres the Wiring diagram for that section. SSAN = ? AS = ? GND via CJB, not directly connected to Ground. GND for Pulse Width Modulation Pulse Width Modulation Signal (?) Spread Spectrum Pulse width Modulation (?) Im pretty sure ill need a scope to measure whats going on here accurately? I have no idea what pin 1 and 2 are supposed to be though. As well as looking at this I think I might see if I can get ahold of VCM and try updating some modules. ill need IDS to change the CJB or ABS anyway so its probably a handy think to have about.
  10. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    Thats a little disappointing, lol. That being the case I'm back to ABS... Or CAN, or maybe even the CJB. Or perhaps a signal ground. . Just seems strange there's so many little electrical issues. That app peddle being one easy to test
  11. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    So rather than write this out I thought id enlist the aid of Excel. This is all measured from what I think is the signal Ground on the drivers side, I need to double check that. The current ratings are from the G6D139 Power Ground, I connected between the wire and the correct grounding point, was getting a little curious when I hit 17Amps, my meter is only rated to 20! Everything apart from that last set of data with the fan on against the ground point is right. im going to go double check that but its getting to dark for faffing around in the road so it will need to wait. If it is right, then we are still getting 60 ohms of resistance between two chassis ground points but only under heavy load. That sound about right to you?!
  12. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    I replaced the complete SASM, I think ill double check inside the old one and see if I can see the damaged Thermal Fuse which plagued this model of car. Interestingly the Yaw sensor is connected directly the HS-CAN, it doesn't connect to the SASM at all but it does share a signal Ground with the APP Sensor. As for the blower, your correct, the blower does connect between the SASM and the ground point, its joined by two splices , SP195and SP518, the wire gets heavier as it passes down. Curiously a thought came to me, the previous owner didn't use the fan on anything higher than the first couple of settings which might explain why he didn't experience the problems.... being in Scotland I use it a lot, its not something ive kept an eye on so ill keep it set to its lowest setting and see what happens, turning it off makes no material difference to the tests, albeit I haven't tried testing without the fuse which might be worth a shot as the blower controller is a simple resister connected to the CJB with a signal wire from the HVEC controller, disconnecting that controller just turns the fan on full. Ill give that a go tomorrow. Isolating the HVEC controls first, then the blower fuse Im in two minds about the ABS, ill test the HS CAN connection but im still drawn to this electrical problem . The IC has an LCD display that looks "Noisy" its not transitioning in a fluid way and it takes second between menus to clear up. The APP peddle response, picked up as a problem by the BCM and occasionally noticeable on traces. the Blower motor and LCD HVEC display can sometimes dim a little in a pulsating pattern. The Turbo vanes, which move freely until it decides that they aren't. The car can on occasion, normally just after starting stall IF I blip the accelerator, it rises then falls as it hits idle it drops off, no DTCs, restarting no problem. Im actually wondering if the door lock error might have something to do with this as well now since it sometimes locks and sometimes doesn't. The loom is probably in the most horrible of all places in a car, its virtually impossible to get to although I might have access to about 1 foot of it behind the head unit if I remove the cage so looking for errors is going to be a challenge 😞 I removed the chassis ground and cleaned it today, resistance is now 0.3 Ohms from the strut tower to the Ground Point G6D139 with the battery disconnected, when connected and ignition off, that resistance increases 1.7 Ohms, thats effectively through the chassis, if I kill the power to the interior lights it drops to 1.3 Ohms, nothing else changes it unless I pull the connector c1bp02-A which is the main connector to the power distribution board (its not the main source of power though, that is two 30A wires on c1bp02-G) when pulling that plug along with the lights and ignition OFF, it drops to about 0.7 Ohms which is more or less the same as everything else. not sure thats useful information or not but hey, it doesn't hurt
  13. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    Another idea out the window! So the replacement SASM turned up today, works fine but the problem persists between the ABS and SASM. Unless ive managed to pick up the a SASM with the exact same problem I know the SASM is good. I know the HS-CAN loop is good, I know the link from the HS-CAN to the SASM is good. I dont know if the connection from the ABS module to the HS-CAN is good. I dont know If the ABS module is nackard but again, the PIDs all work I dont know if the data packets are being corrupted or lost in a sea of invalid messages I dont know what it is the ABS module is asking for so it could be something that is connected to the SASM but there isnt much that makes sense.(see pic) The only thing that links the SASM to the other problems is G6D139 power ground (thats the one with 8v 10 amps on it when the blower motor is on) and G3D134 the signal ground. Not sure when ill get a chance to test the ABS to HS-CAN link as thats a PITA to get to. But if anyone knows if what is going on with that ground is normal im all ears.
  14. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    Today I decided to forget work and just concentrate on this... Checked power at SASM (Pin1) and IC (Pin 32). Both displayed 12.3v to both modules Checked Current at Power Ground (G6D139) 300mA when off, 500mA when ignition on engine off, 5-10A when blower is engaged. (this is with the old IC in place, the newer one adds about 500mA more. Checked Current at 2 Grounds on Drivers side (G3D134 and G3D135) both reading 0-100mA, turning to 0 shortly after powered up. resistance between DLC HS-CAN + and - (Pin 6 and 14) with no power (I didn't turn the power off when I mentioned this yesterday so re tested) 61 Ohms Resistance between SASM HS-CAN + and - (Pin 4 and 5) with no power, 61 ohms Resistance to Power Ground G6D139 from SASM (Pin 14) and IC (Pin 6) 0.3 ohms Resistance to Power Ground G3D134 From APP (pin 4) 0.7 ohms So the SASM is getting volts, its grounded via a ground point that is in my opinion getting absolutely hammered (up to 10 amps with the blower on) I have nothing to compare that too just now so it might be normal. Im still getting the ABS / SASM error when running tests as well as the APP error so since it was cheap I have taken a gamble on a second hand SASM to see if makes any difference at all. the SASM has a good physical connection to the CAN so unless something is interfering with the signal the SASM might be faulty....
  15. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    So I measured the current on my car from the ground wire to the ground post as well as a direct line to the battery. It was about 1A I pulled the fuses one by one and it dropped to about 200mA when pulled the cluster fuse. I happen to have a different Cluster, an older type 1 cluster So I swapped it with the converse+ (you can do that on the Mondeo mk4 without any bother) The current dropped to about 500mA and the resistance from pin 4 to ground dropped to 10 Ohms, the Converse unit probably requires considerably more power which may explain the drop. It didn't help one bit with the tests, ABS still has a problem with SASM. The CAN has a resistance of about 60 Ohms between the high and low side (pin 6 and 14) which I believe is about correct, Something I forgot to mention is that although the SASM says no DTCs, when I ran the test it generated the same ABS DTC as what is listed below. In fact running ABS, SASM, PCM and BCM test, all generate the same ABS fault with coms to SASM. The Throttle peddle DTCs only come on with the BCM test and yet all PIDs can be read from both ABS and SASM. Turning off ESP didn't help with dropping to limp mode ===PCM DTC P2127:00-2E=== Code: P2127 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch E Circuit Low Input Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC P2127:00-2E=== ===PCM DTC P060D:00-2F=== Code: P060D - Internal Control Module Accelerator Pedal Position Performance Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC P060D:00-2F=== ===OBDII DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: On Board Diagnostic II ===END OBDII DTC None=== ===SASM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Steering Angle Sensor Module ===END SASM DTC None=== ===ABS DTC U0126:00-8A=== Code: U0126 - Lost Communication With SASM Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC Module: Antilock braking system Diagnostic Trouble Code details There are DTCs for other modules. Check All Other Modules On The Data Bus For Function And DTCs Possible causes are: CAN communication fault Internal fault in the SASM. Perform these checks Check the SASM CAN communication connections. Check the SASM power supply connections. Check the SASM for DTCs. Check the SASM fuses. Check the wiring for the SASM. Check the electrical connections for the SASM. Additional Information DO NOT replace the ABS module based on this DTC alone. Do not replace the ABS module based on this DTC alone, unless a fault or physical damage is found. The ABS, EBD, TCS and ESP lamps are illuminated. There will be an ESP malfunction warning displayed on the driver information text panel. ===END ABS DTC U0126:00-8A=== ===BCMii DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Body Control Module ===END BCMii DTC None=== ===PDM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Passengers Door Control Unit ===END PDM DTC None=== ===DDM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Drivers Door Module ===END DDM DTC None=== ===RCM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Restraint Control Module ===END RCM DTC None=== ===HVAC DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning ===END HVAC DTC None=== ===ACM DTC Error=== Unable to read DTC Module: Audio Control Module ===END ACM DTC Error=== ===IPC DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Instrument Panel Control Module ===END IPC DTC None===