Dee_82

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Dee_82 last won the day on July 22

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About Dee_82

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Darren
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Mk4 2.0 TDCI 140
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. Dee_82

    remap

    Not worth it. Save the money for your new clutch and DMF 😉
  2. Dee_82

    Help

    Not sure it uses the pump though, you need to manually prime it changing the filter so im pretty sure the sender is little more than a float device and a filter sock
  3. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    lol, I know, computer systems designed to make cars easier to identify problems just end up making things more complicated to diagnose. the TC warning light, turns on when it enters limp mode but not at any other time. Im actually wondering if those ABS errors might be related to the vibration problem ive had on bumpy roads! lol or maybe the cruise control problem which I just fixed today. I fixed that CC problem today and all DTCs have now gone and remained gone. Im pretty sure I can replicate the limp mode by being steady on the throttle and cruise at 65-70 in 6th, tomorrow im going to try use cruise control in 6th at 65-70 and see if it limps, If it limps on CC then I know its nothing to do with the accelerator sensors as they read 0. The Throttle valve opens cleanly, registers fine. im going to monitor the EGR side, detach the ground points and clean them up and swap out the MAP for a new one.
  4. @iantt I got someone to take a wee video whilst I rocked the car with the clutch and the hand brake on, couldn't hear any knocking but it moves somewhat, that mount also gets really really hot, I reckon it would cook an egg its so hot. The knock is definitely on the drivers side of the car though. I had no idea the engine cover does that funny wobble, its mounted on all it rubber mounts and doesn't touch anything. Your expertise would be most welcome!
  5. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    The MAP is limited to a top value, my 1.6 tdci was the same but I installed a boost gauge and it would routinely rise above its maximum sensor value when using overboost, I suspect this is the same. Ill need to double check the position of the throttle valve, pretty sure the MAP is before the valve so if the valve was shutting then the pressure wouldn't drop below ambient. Its interesting you mention CAN errors though. MAP is one of the suggestions albeit the sub code does suggest vanes sticking in the problem. but more interestingly is the ABS errors. ===ABS DTC U0100:00-08=== Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A ===ABS DTC U0126:00-08=== Code: U0126 - Lost Communication With SASM ===ABS DTC U0401:68-8A=== Code: U0401 - Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM Specifically that second one, SASM is, as far as I am aware, part of the module in the steering column, the same steering column that has the cruise control module problems and in fact the left side also seems to forget which is volume and which is next track. DTC_2018-07-21_17.54.41.txt
  6. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    Haha, Every day is a learning day. just wish I "knew" what needs fixed. Here is a corrected version of the same two graphs, B for bad and G for good. You can clearly see now that pressure builds fine until it hits peak, but just before it does the vanes slam shut, that noticeable drops the pressure down, it then returns to a mid position briefly and gains a little pressure and drops it again, as it returns to a mid point, it then completely swings back to fully closed before snapping fully opened up, we build a little pressure then it snaps closed, dumps some pressure returns to a mid point, gains a little pressure, closes once more and losses it again before snapping fully open and returning to a normal semi open and maintains its pressure until I ease off the throttle. The good graph as that same snapping going on mid where through but if you look at the number of the dots you can see it moved very quickly, perhaps so quick there wasn't enough of a change to make a difference, there was no limp mode in this example. The question is, why is it doing it. The vanes are controlled by a actuator arm which is controlled by a vacuum thats regulated by a boost solenoid, that vacuum is generated by a vacuum pump which feeds the brakes, EGR and throttle valve. The actuator has a sensor that tells the PCM what position its at, the PCM tells the solenoid what amount of vacuum to pass on to the actuator arm, Boost is generated and reported to the PCM via the MAP (and MAF id assume) as that builds the PCM sees the boost level, then instructs the solenoid to make changes based on load. we have a valid MAP reading so the PCM knows what is going on with boost, we also have a signal from the actuator which appears to be recording the movement of the vanes but we dont know if its error free. The DTCs reported that the reduced boost performance was down to a stuck vanes / actuator, the position of which is reported by the actuator sensor. So the PCM sees they aren't moving as it expects them to move and throws a warning that the turbo isnt a happy bunny dropping it in to limp mode which effectively disables the turbo. The actuator holds a vacuum ok, so we aren't loosing vacuum, the solenoid could be nackard but why would it work sometimes and not others, only putting the car in to limp mode when we maintain low RPM at speed for a prolonged period of time. So my thoughts are, the PCM instructs the solenoid to give boost which it does, the actuator tries to continue to opening the vanes, on the G graph you can see it comes down, hesitates, then continues to drop, on the B graph it doesn't drop further, I reckon the PCM sees it stuck then in a bid to correct itself slams it closed and reopens it, didn't work, so it does it again, slams it closed, then reopens, only this time it does open and we run in to max boost, so closes it abit then cycles a couple more times to make sure its free then opens up to get where it wants boost to be before levelling out. Im thinking the turbo is full of crap, but im happy to hear any other versions you might think make sense!! 🙂
  7. Yeah, that part im fine with, getting the damn control arm out off is my concern, if the strut is nackard then replacing both is one thing, but replacing both and the control arms is a different matter, if I had the cash id just do the whole damn lot but im also having to replace the turbo, not having much luck here! 😞
  8. Dee_82

    Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Limp Mode

    Hi Guys, planned to get the turbo replaced on the 6th so fingers crossed, but from an academic point of view I thought is share some more data for you to pick over! All that data is attached, ive screen shot the two areas of interest. So the first picture is a good example, this was a relatively short period of hard acceleration, you can see the Throttle open up, speed increased, MAP maxed out at 249 and held under acceleration. The vanes opened and closed, no noticeable hesitation, as mentioned before the vanes voltage isnt as clear as high and low and the negative values need to be adjusted to make sense of it, but it more or less looks ok Picture Two was a few moments before, same test. hard acceleration, MAP increases as expected, vanes are all over the place and then you can see the MAF readings go a little mental, this is very noticeable in the car, feels like a drop and surge of power and ties in exactly where the vanes are going nuts. So it would appear that the vanes are actually moving and is having an effect on the MAP Time stamp 1205 Time stamp 948 12 monty test.txt
  9. Not sure what I can check with that top one? its completely contained in metal. On my focus I was able to see the rubber fall to bits. I could jack it up with some wood on the sump but what would be considered normal movement, I suppose if I jack it up half an inch or so and release the jack it might drop and knock? I dont think its the torque restrictor mount, it looked ok and the noise is 100% coming from the front OSF of the car
  10. Dee_82

    Anyone used one of these before?

    Cool, cheers guys. I think ive narrowed down my knocking to the strut / top mount, if the BJs are not wrecked id rather not wreck them but im not all that thrilled about maybe taking both off! As easy as possible is what im looking for! 🙂
  11. Dee_82

    1.0 Ecoboost fuel consumption

    it does have one or two pitfalls to be mindful of, notably the turbo coolant inlet / outlet barbs rusting to buggery and dumping its coolant on the floor and the coolant pipe from the expansion tank to the turbo going brittle and busting... other than that its a good engine🙂
  12. Dee_82

    Anyone used one of these before?

    Not as much as that, ill get about 1.3ft max clearance id need to get her on ramps first, then jack up off some raised blocks can probably get it to 1.6ft without too much bother. 2ft would probably be a problem, not enough slabs of concrete! 🙂 what id do for a lift!
  13. Control arm / Ball joint extractor. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141631030182 Looks good on a lift but is there enough clearance on jack stands to pull it down enough?
  14. alrighty, made some progress, finally been able to make it knock by hand, still none the wiser whats knocking as its vibrating through everything, strut, coils, drop links, control arms and tie rod ends. So it only does it by hand in a very specific position its the front right wheel and the wheel needs to be on full left lock, the wheel needs to be loaded up, ie, on the deck., it might not be relevant and ill test later but the road was slight cambered so the front left was a little lower than the front right.. Grab the front right wheel (which is turned left) at 11 oclock and pull at 90 degrees to the car with a very short sharp yank. Single clonk. Double checked the steering lock was disengaged, tried it with and without the engine running, clonk. Big pulls, rocking, nothing, sharp tug, clonk
  15. Dee_82

    Air con .. 07 Focus titanium

    or in other words, discovered a leak and finding it was more hassle then he could be bothered to deal with. Some people!! If I didn't have so many other problems to deal with first I was seriously considering looking for my leak myself. wee vacuum pump and gauge set costs about £120 quid or so. with luck you can find the leak by the sound of the air entering the system, worse case you could get "dirty" and DIY recharge it with gas and dye but thats a little unethical and fairly expensive. after a moment of thought I decided its probably cheaper for the garage to find the leak, unless its the evaporator in which case I think id just say to hell with it. ill do without.