Dee_82

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Dee_82 last won the day on April 16

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About Dee_82

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Darren
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk 3.5 1l EB 125
  • Ford Year
    2016
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. I dunno about the other guys on here but if a Mechanic said to me, to replace the battery and the alternator based on nothing other than the description of the problem and a vague "check" with a multimeter which results in a vague diagnosis of "overcharging", id take it to another garage. it may well be both. or, it could be one or the other, or even some random electronic issue / starter problem. imo, they are fishing and taking a punt on replacing both of them to fix the issue without spending any time trying to work out what is actually going on. if I were you id either speak to some other folk or do some basic tests your self, firstly pick up a cheap multi meter, connect it up to the battery and position it in the window. with the engine running. turn on all the lights, fans and heaters (including windows) and see what happens to that voltage, it will drop, the question is how much. check the volts in the morning after leaving it over night and when cranking it see what that drops down too. With the engine running, measure the AC (NOT the DC) voltage across the battery Theres lots you can do to narrow down the problem, just takes a bit of time and meter 🙂
  2. CCA is what you really need to know but its just not possible to tell without actually testing it. The problem is that a battery can have 70A of available power but due to the temperature and internal structures, chemical variations, that power may or may not be available to anything but a trickle, thats sort of why you can turn your sidelights on and its all good for hours but as soon as you turn on the fans, all bets are off. its a little like Tescos own brand batteries and Duracell Ultra. In a TV remote, the current draw is so insignificant, it doesn't matter if you use cheap batteries, but in a high current draw, like a heater, fan or even a digital camera, that Tesco battery might not be able to supply power at the required rate. so it appears to die quicker. So in short, if the battery is newish and its not bloomin freezing, you should be ok, ive used a car pump for similar lengths of time and never had any bother but if in doubt, just collect it up to a small little sealed lead acid battery.
  3. Wouldn't worry about volts. its the Amps thats important. if your volts are screwed for a 60W pump youll be having bigger problems. A 60W pump at 12V would be drawing 5Amps. if the battery was good for 10Ah (Amp hours) it would last 2 hours To complicate things a bit more though, if the Battery cant supply the Amps it trades in volts. Thats why an old battery on cranking drops a few volts, a nackard battery may drop so low the electronics go funky and it fails to start. The pump on the pic above has tmax of 30min, probably because the compressor is made of plastic and itll melt if you run it longer, 60W, 12V, 30 Min, your talking 2-3Amps, theres no link between CCA and Ah which is a bit annoying but if you cant draw a couple of Amps from a full battery then its probably time to get a new one.
  4. Spot on, its a company car. my personal car is still the Mk3.5 Focus. I traded that Mondeo in with my partners festa and got a focus. They jokingly wondered why I parked the Mondeo by the skip at the end of their forecourt, little did they know... 😄 We fled the country the next day and moved back to England 😄 I had a choice between this and a BMW 1 series or Mini. Ive driven a Mini before and wasn't happy and I couldn't bring myself to pay more for the BWM.
  5. I get 57.4 now ,thats driving in to and around South west London, which as anyone will tell you, is a complete pita. Still, im happy with that, not so happy with the bouncy castle ride on its 16 by 205 by SIXTY!!! tyres and torsion bar.
  6. Ive had a Mk2.5 - 1.6 tdci 3.5 1l EB and now a 69 plate Mk4 1.5 TDCI The mk2.5 was extremely noisy, she had a fat bum and you felt it when ever you did anything with her. I added rear disc brakes which improved it somewhat. got her mapped up to about 140 and she was a delight, there were one or two... modifications to her that helped this 🙂 the mk3.5 is a little more cluttered but was a huge improvement over the 2.5, she handles well and with a new map she will be a delight to drive. not chuffed with the rear drum brakes and I cant be bothered with insurance hassle converting them so they will have to do. it has sync 2 which I will upgrade at some point to sync3 the mk4 is, ok, its cheap on the inside and thats saying something, it is a little noisier than its EB cousin but still significantly better than the 2.5, no wind noise and tyre roar is acceptable, the audio is not good, sync 3 is great but its just not got great sound. the engine is underpowered on all but "sport" mode and even that is pitiful. its a company car so im not going to map it but looking it up, there doesn't appear to be many options to get more out of the Chinese variant engine. brakes are snappy, clutch is noisy, oh and some idiot decided to stick a bloomin torsion bar on the rear, didn't realise that was the case but it is quite noticeable, ill not be belting this girl around hard so its not a problem but its worth keeping in mind if your wanting to have a little fun. so far im not sold and couldn't recommend it. get a 3.5 and upgrade it to sync 3 and if your not bothered about limited insurance options, convert the drums
  7. What Lenny said! (Good to see you again Lenny!) One thing I may have looked over is the grounding. Grounding can cause all sorts of problems if its not right.
  8. your going to be pulling 500w through this, what on earth you doing with it? id use 4AWG wiring minimum if your keeping it under 20foot, if your hitting 25 foot then give yourself some margin and use 2AWG Yes yes im sure people will say thats overly cautious but if it were my car, id rather be over the top then run hot cables which im sure the insurance company will question if your car goes up in flames
  9. well, some kind person drive in to my parked car twice a couple of years back and flux sorted it out no bother. so whilst I sympathise with those who have had bad experiences with claims , it is not something I have shared. in fact my only gripe with them is the predictable battle I have each year at renewal. its truly amazing how much better their best offer gets when you moan and yes, ive spent more than an hour on the phone to them in the past before getting it back to a better value, I know they have to make money but still a bit of respect wouldn't go amiss
  10. I picked up some sheet rubber and made my own the bolted it to the mounts around the wheel arch. it cost less than a tenner for a set of 4, had enough material to make some other stuff with it as well 🙂 as for your question, I honestly dont like to spend money on something I can make so I wouldn't even look but I suspect there is official ford ones and aftermarket
  11. how did you find getting insurance? most folk I spoke to wouldn't touch me with modified brakes. Flux was the exception
  12. Disconnect the battery and check the terminals on the Main earth strap to the chaise (to the right of the battery on to the mount for the strut, remove the stud and clean the threads up as well) check and clean the terminals and posts on both battery posts. Check and clean the terminals on the alternator. With it all plugged back in again and the engine running, check the AC (NOT DC) voltage across the two battery posts. (AC voltage here can indicate a failed diode on the alternator.) you really should be putting out about 14v when started but Id be more interested to know what happens to the voltage when you turn on the HVEC fan on to full and turn on all the High beams and brake lights. I dont remember a clutch on the 1.6 alternator pulley but I may be wrong on that. When my alternator went it started doing all sorts of crazy stuff, eventually whilst bombing down the outside lane over a bridge on one of the busiest roads in Scotland the car cut out without warning. nothing worked, had to freewheel off the motorway without hazards and pull over, probably one of the most bum clenching moments ive had in a car! The irony for myself was that I had a replacement alternator in the boot and was heading home to fit it! anyway, point is, dont mess about with it, if its on its way out, fix it.
  13. ive never had a Mk1 mate so couldn't tell you, the MK2 looked easy until we tried it. Bloomin thing!
  14. Yeah, those warning lights are particularly important. My old dear drove for miles with what she believed was the handbrake light on, of course on her car that light is also shared with the brake fluid level. NSR rear brake line peeing out fluid through a ruptured metal line. To be fair, it could be made clearer the difference between oil level and oil pressure. I had a hire car (astra) flash up a low level oil warning and since its a hire car and worse an astra I had no intention of spending a moment of my time on it but I spent about 15 min arguing that it was level, not pressure whilst they looked at me as if I was terminally stupid, if a garage cant tell the difference without plugging in a computer then what hope is therefor someone less clued up. Nice one on the new engine, you struck it lucky they didn't kick up more of a fuss.
  15. good question. the short answer is I dont know. the long is that I know on Mondeos up to around 2012 had a dedicated speaker for the front and rear parking sensors but after that point it was the head unit that did the work. if that is the case then you will lose the ability to hear them, the headunit will play back the audio if you can splice in to the correct wires and feed the signal in to the audio input on the head unit. When I had my focus I had aftermarket sensors and a reverse camera. I suppose you could simply pull the head unit out, then pop it in reverse and see what happens, if you still hear it then your good, if you dont then you will need to look up how to splice in to the correct wires.