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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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About rpaterson

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  • Ford Model
    '99 2.0 Focus estate
  1. '99 Focus gearbox noise

    Fair enough - thanks for your replies :)
  2. '99 Focus gearbox noise

    Cool, thanks for the diagnosis tips. The conditions are as per step 1 so it's the input shaft bearing - bugger. What's the general opinion of recon boxes Vs overhauling the box she has at a box specialist? The box obviously has to come off for either option, but just swapping to a recon box would mean box removal labour + cost of recon box whereas the rebuild option would include the removal labour + however long it took to strip and rebuild box + cost of new bearing(s). Any idea how long it will be OK to leave and still be driveable (ie keep an eye on vibration levels etc) and what's the worst that'll happen when the bearing eventually packs in? I think I noticed the noise back in April when I did a timing belt change, hard to say how much worse it is. Thanks so far.
  3. '99 Focus gearbox noise

    Hi Folks, The mother-in-law has a rattle/vibration coming from the box on her '99 focus (2 litre with MTX75 box). The rattle/vibration goes away when your foot is on the clutch. I originally thought it would be the release bearing, but doesn't THAT noise become apparent with your foot on the clutch? This noise goes away with your foot on the clutch so now I'm thinking about gearbox bearings etc? As far as I can make out, the mountings are OK and I've drained the fluid and refilled with no change. Any ideas?
  4. Newbie with a Q already

    Thanks for the reply. I'm going to be looking out for a good used cluster then, I'll see if the 'mileage correction' folk can sort the different mileage issue. Has anyone stripped a cluster to see if there's just an internal short or something? It seems a shame to need an entire cluster when it's just the one gauge (for now) that's at fault.
  5. Newbie with a Q already

    Right, got an update. Had a tinker tonight and I've discovered that the wiring from the sender to the gauge is OK and is showing decent voltage. When I plug the instruments back in though, the gauge is still dead. This seems to leave me with two options; Faulty gauge Faulty instrument pod I'm assuming a gauge fault as it's only the fuel gauge that's misbehaving. I know that there is a known issue with Focus intrument pods, but I believe this tends to effect all gauges? My next step will be to try soemone else's gauges in mine or vice-versa.
  6. Newbie with a Q already

    Hi Folks, I've joined as one of the cars I look after is my mum-in-laws '98 2.0 Focus estate. I've been doing some work on it this weekend with a lot of success (boot seal, timing belt kit, water pump and coolant). The thing that's got me stumped though is the fuel gauge. You know what's coming, don't you? It's not working - reading empty. Here's what I've done so far; Gauge test - all looks OK, needle moves to max and then back again Bridged the white/red and brown/red (I think wires) to and from the sender. Gauge still reads empty. Tested continuity between gauge and sender - all OK for both wires. The wire to the sender has battery voltage but the wire from the sender has less than 1 volt. I've stuck my multimeter across the sender and I get a resistance reading that does change when I rock the car to get the petrol sloshing around. I'm stumped. I suspect the wire from the sender to the gauge so I'm going to bypass it tonight and see what happens. I was wondering if the gauge test just test that the gauge physically works? ie does it mean that it works correctly or just that it isn't stuck. The dash shows codes 9202 and 9204 for sender open circuit and sender short circuit but I didn't check them BEFORE I started messing with the wires so I suspect that at least one has been caused by me as I doubt that both codes could be created by the same error. Any ideas, I'd liek to be sure so I'm not spending £110 on a sender/pump that I don't need. Cheers.