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About ScorpionSX

  • Birthday 11/02/1988

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    Focus Mk2 1.8TDCi Champion
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    General Automotive
    Car Modification
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    Trencin, Slovakia

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  1. Hi there @Solis, sorry for the late reply 🙂 ... I'm still here, car is still alive, just not posting very often 🙂 But to your question - yes, those 3 plastic pieces are required. Otherwise you would have a gap between the bottom engine cover and the bumper. You can of course tie the bumper to the cover with lets say some of those plastic ties, but that creates a tension in the bumper which it's not really meant for. So lets say if you would scratch something with the bottom of the bumper, you could crack it much easily than if there wasn't any tension in that area. I know it is expensive, but if you don't want to pay the full price at Ford, you can ask some breakers if they don't have any CCs around, they have that plastics there too, you can get them (hopefully) cheaper. I did go to Ford, I didn't have the nerves to explain to every breaker what exactly is that what I need, lol 😄 (they all thought I'm talking about the whole bottom engine cover). With those triangle pieces around the back of the foglights it's better, you absolutely don't need those and to this day I don't have them. It's also part of the "support" for the bumper, but when you would hit something, the bumper breaks either way, this will not help it in any case 😄 And yes, of course you need the front foglight surrounds, but that's obvious - it's a different shape than regular ones. Those are very cheap and you can get them from aftermarket manufacturers for like 5€ a piece.
  2. Not a dead thread, I just don't have much time to post the updates 🙂 @yunii Yes, I have the stalk with cruise controls. It's integrated with the radio controls, so basically there are 5 more buttons added to it. It works just like the buttons on the steering wheel, it has the same functions. It can be connected to the factory wiring, either instead of the factory buttons, or as a new install - the wiring is usually already there. If you have Voice on the stalk, you have to decide if you want to keep it, or have the cruise controls. As far as I know there isn't an option with both - you would probably have to build one stalk by yourself.
  3. It's possible, of course. In elmconfig, there should be a option in HEC, to turn on "Instant fuel consumption" - or something very similar to that, I don't remember the exact name...turn it on, re-start the car and drive...you should be able to see the instant consumption on one of the "pages" of the cluster menu. It's working with all types of cluster except the most basic one with only mileage showing.
  4. You can definitely upgrade MK2 pre-facelift cluster with no trip computer to even the "maxi-dot" one from the facelift version - the one with the display all the way through the middle of the dials. But yeah, those are pretty rare. You have better chances of getting one with the "standard" display for the facelifted mk2 - there are usually plenty of those on ebay and/or various breakers offers. What you need to look out for: petrol/diesel versions - since you have 1.6, you obviously need the petrol version - it has rev range up to 8000 rpm (I think) - diesel is lower. And also the mileage - the best way for you to do this without visiting a garage to code the cluster for you, is to find one with lower mileage than you currently have. And then, of course the visual status of the cluster - it shouldn't look like it's been through a mud spa... The process of configuring it and tools required: new cluster (obviously), ELM327 cable with HS-MS CAN switch (so a "modified" one), laptop, and elmconfig and Forscan software (both free) and knowledge of using these tools. Then, you simply connect with your cable to the car, using the elmconfig download the configuration of your old cluster (HEC tab and everything in it) and save it to your PC. Swap the clusters. Connect to the car again and check if the cluster is working - i.e. you can download the configuration also from the new one. There is a VIN tab (I think) on the HEC page, so put your VIN number in it and leave it as it is, press save to HEC and you should be good (the config for petrol versions should be basically the same for all cars, so right now, there is no need to load your old config to the new cluster, it's just good to have a backup). Then, you need to code the keys to the new cluster, as the immobiliser is paired in the cluster. For this, there is a manual on the Forscan forums, so please follow that, I rather don't want to explain it here so I won't forget something. After you are done, you can try to start the car. If all works, you can increase the mileage using Forscan to match your old cluster and also I think you need to program the remote keys again, so the lock/unlock will work (follow some youtube tutorial on this, it's really simple process). And, you're done. Sounds like a lot of work, but it really can be done in like 30 minutes or so, if you know what you're doing. And the cluster pops out easily from the dashboard, as that can be a pain in the a$$. I did a swipe on mine recently and it costed me about 60€ (I already had the cable), I know the prices are little higher in the UK, but you should be able to squeeze to a GBP 100,-...I think.
  5. I didn’t but all was fine, though it ruined the clutch quite fast at that point...but it was worn pretty bad at that time already. Got it replaced soon after that. Now I got the remap out and I’m running with stock map, only with K&N and that’s absolutely no problem. With a “standard” remap, there should be around 140-145 horses, but I still have to try it, I just didn’t have the time yet 😕
  6. Thanks. Yeah, I’m trying to stay OEM as much as it makes sense. I was thinking also going with Ford stereo, but functionality-wise, the china one is a better choice. But aside from that, I think most of the stuff is just taking what was OEM and making it the best version possible.
  7. Wow, so it's been quite a while since I posted some update here, so lets get to it, shall we? 🙂 As mentioned before, I got a set of internals for the conversion to 4-electric windows system and so with a help of a friend, I retrofited this sometime last year. Don't really have a picture, they are windows...you know...they look the same as before 😄 Next, I found cheap rear tweeters from Mondeo (I think), so I put these in as well, it may be a placebo effect, but the sound is improved a bit: huh, I guess there you can also see the rear window control upgraded 😉 Next on the list are the original AFS lights. For those who don't know what that is, they are projectors that turn based on the turning of the steering wheel, so you go left, headlights turn left and vice versa. Very good upgrade for night time driving and much better in combination with some good LED "bulbs". Much better than xenons I think, but also much harder to get all the parts. Next is cruise control. This was on my list for some time, but I never got to it, since I don't usually drive that long distances to appreciate it fully, but finally got to it anyway. I have the 3-spoke wheel, so the original buttons are not an option for me. I went with the next best thing, which is the stereo control stalk. This is completely from China, but it's an OEM part only with added buttons. Halfway through the list of upgrades now 🙂 ... next are the mirrors. Since I already had the door modules for the all-4-electric windows, it was much easier to retrofit puddle lights and finally plug in the turn signals properly. I didn't go with the folding, since on the pre-facelift mirrors they fold like 2-3cm, which doesn't make any sense and I don't like the shape of the facelifted mirrors, so I stayed with what I had. Found some nice ones with puddle lights and swapped them. I like this upgrade very much, in the night it's much better look than just the angel eyes that turned on before on unlocking the car, because this lights both sides of the car fully with the high power LEDs that I put in. Back in the interior, the most recent updates are for the instrument cluster and the stereo (and backup cam). Few days ago I fitted the facelifted IC, this was also very low on my list, because I didn't like the red backlight that much (but starting to like it actually 😄 ), but it became basically mandatory with my stereo going out of service. As you know, on the Mk2 Focus, the time is only displayed on the stereo, and when it broke, I didn't have any idea what time it is when driving the car (I don't always wear watch and I don't want to look at my phone) - I'm just used to, after 12 years of driving this car, to look somewhere in the centre console and see the time. Now I have to look on the IC, but the time is there and that is good. And I also had to replace my backup cam, after 2 years it just stopped working (I think maybe water damage), so I went with the "fisheye" version, which is...fine. When it breaks I'm probably going back to the regular type. And today I also got a new stereo, which goes nicely with the "fine" theme of the backup cam, advertised with a bit more functionality than received, I have to manage to get some upgrade from the manufacturer. And, I also ordered the black version and got a silver one, so there's that too...ehm... And one last upgrade, this time on the outside, the rear "smoked" aftermarked LED lamps were replaced with OEM Ford LED lamps (you know, the ones from Titanium/ST/RS), which is a nice change for me, I wanted to change the look of the rear a bit, it was too dark I guess. Soo that's it for now I think, I'm probably not really done with the car, I'll see what comes next, I'm slowly collecting some parts for dual zone AC and also heated seats should be nice 🙂 Thanks for reading, like, comment, subscribe, and I'll see you later 😉
  8. Actually, as far as the money goes, the whole thing cost me less than 100€, which is pretty cheap I would say. Although paying those 200€ more when buying the car new and getting the all-electric windows fitted from factory is definitely worth it! The work is what makes it a PITA.
  9. Sorry, but this will not work just like that, after enabling it in Forscan or elmconfig. The functionality simply isn't supported by the "hardware" in your doors. To enable this you would have to retrofit at least front door modules from an all-4-electric windows equipped car. This also requires some changes in the wiring of the door looms and so on. Not un-doable job, I did it myself (with a massive help from a friend), I now have all 4 windows in electric. I used a how-to guide from a local forum board (localized in czech language only) and with all the needed parts it took about 8 hours (with breaks) to fit it.
  10. Yep, fits straight out of box, no clips needed. You can twist off the ring that is held in place by the stock headlight bulb clip, fix the ring in the headlight and then just twist the LED bulb in it’s place. This is for the pre-facelift though, I don’t know how they would fit on facelift lights. If the bulb wouldn’t be visible = subject to easily be seen by the police during a check, I would hapilly use the 6000K version all the time. It’s very very usable for everyday driving.
  11. Sooo I got to it actually pretty soon...here are pics with 4300K LED, 6000K LED and standard halogen (I think GE Megalight Ultra 120). I created the collages for the pics, it would be too much to upload I think... These are all in reflector headlights, OEM for Focus mk2 pre-FL.
  12. But you can check out these guys, they tested them in many reflector housings and the beam pattern is pretty much the same, only it's more "curved" as is the EU/UK style of the pattern: - see at about 5:50 where are them on the wall...no glare, no messed up beam pattern...this was the same with FF2 pre-facelift reflectors... 😉
  13. I currently don't have the reflector headlights on my car, I use projectors and there the beam looks like basically standard projector beam with the " __/¯ " pattern - it would be opposite in UK. When I will have some time to swap the headlights again I can post the pic, but I don't think that will happen anytime soon...
  14. In my FF2 lights they lock just fine. The ring part is removable, so you can lock that in first and then just put the bulb in. But I didn't see them in any other lights, don't have another car with H7 bulbs to test them unfortunately. What Andy says in a post above is technically correct, but today you can get LED bulbs with such good pattern, that they are fully functional as a halogen replacement, without blinding other drivers. I personally have tested these bulbs with my friend and I wasn't blinded by his (reflector) headlights even on a bumpy road. So this very much depends on a quality and mostly build of the LEDs. Do not throw them all in the same basket. Although it is true that they are a MOT failure basically everywhere, though you might not get stopped by police, since you have pretty modern car which often uses xenon lights and I doubt that every police officer will inspect the headlights on every car that passes them. (knock knock on wood)
  15. Get these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Partol-H4-HB2-H7-H11-H8-H9-9003-Car-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-80W-9600LM-CREE-XHP50/32774450794.html I tested them in both projector and reflector headlights, and they work very well and don't blind oncoming traffic. If you are unsure of the "Aliexpress brand", then notice that they are the same as these which are sold at extremely high price: https://headlightrevolution.com/supernova-v-4-led-headlights-h7-bulbs/
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