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TomsFocus last won the day on August 18

TomsFocus had the most liked content!

About TomsFocus

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    Doesn't even own a Ford...

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  1. DPFs have been factory fitted to mainstream cars for the last 15 are there still people that don't know about them!?
  2. Lol, had never heard of rumination syndrome, I wonder how two very different things ended up with the same name! How many more weeks of holiday have you got left now? I did something interesting on Saturday evening after a really rough couple of days, went to a fireworks display down the docks (it's now called the Waterfront since no-one uses little boats for commerce anymore lol)...had to park on a very dark and empty side street, then lots of people around, noise, lights, motion etc once I'd reached the Waterfront, quite a few drunk people as well and I was very worried about thieves, knives or bombs even with so many people around...however, I didn't get stabbed or shot or bombed...and the fireworks were pretty good tbh. It's just worth remembering that although there seems to be an awful lot of bad things happening nowadays that we have no control over, it's not all bad... Also, did you spot me on AR last night? I'd forgotten just how miserable I looked on it!
  3. If you mean the constant metal tapping noise that's just diesel knock. It's completely normal, not a problem at all. It's just caused by the way diesel burns compared to petrol.
  4. Lol, o reckon the steam was outside then, no wet footwells means you can rule out the heater matrix/pipes.
  5. This is a can of worms really lol, totally depends what you want to do. Even polishes aren't all 'polish', some have a heavy cut to remove scratches but can cause damage, some are just full of fillers which are easy to use but just mask scratches until the rain washes it off. Either way, you will want to seal the paintwork after a polish with wax or sealant to protect your hard work!
  6. Are the footwells damp at all, particularly the drivers side near clutch pedal? And was the windscreen damp on the inside or the outside? I reckon it will be either the cap or the reservoir tbh. The caps have springs in them to hold a certain level pressure but release above that, they get weak over time and let out too much pressure. The reservoirs are notoriously bad for tiny hairline cracks that expand in the heat just enough to let the pressure out but not always easy to see. Both cheap to replace but stick to genuine parts for them imo.
  7. Nope. Mk1 Focus's are worth so little you could buy another for less than the repair costs.
  8. It's not a myth, boiled fluid on the Mk6 ST is a common issue. If you plan on tracking the car I would definitely recommend relocating the PAS reservoir. If it's just for road use then you could just get away with a regular fluid change instead.
  9. I'd agree with the above, it's not the filter itself but the housing that's the issue here. It's fine immediately after you've tightened it, but then over the next few weeks the heating and cooling cycles warp it again until the seal is lost. As a free test, don't replace the filter next time, just remove the lid and then refit it as if you were changing the filter.
  10. Just a generic OBD code reader I assume? Something Ford specific like Forscan should show the hidden codes.
  11. Slave cylinder has probably failed if you can't see any leaks higher up. Will need to remove the gearbox to find out though, and by that point it's worth fitting a new 3pc clutch kit anyway.
  12. Have you got a tape measure? I'm pretty sure the Mk2 ST is only 2.25" so 1.6 is probably only 2 or even 1.75" at a guess.
  13. Nope. Being a non-turbo engine there's not any significant gain to be had from remapping I'm afraid. If you're in a position to change to a more powerful car that's really the only option here.
  14. Yes, you just drive it the same as you would a conventional auto. Leave it in Drive and foot on the brake for traffic lights etc. No need to return to neutral unless it's going to be a long wait like a level crossing. They can be a bit juddery at standstill due to their design but it shouldn't be a problem as long as the car isn't trying to drag you forward. Hill starts should be the same, although just remember the 1.4 isn't a powerful engine if you're used to something bigger. For a steep hill start you may need to hold the brake with your left foot and give it a few revs with your right foot before lifting the brake.
  15. Yeah it's easy enough. Just under the fascia there's a small plastic cover that just pulls off. Then behind that there are 2x T30 screws. Once they're out the whole fascia pulls out. The unit itself is held in by a few more Torx screws.