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TomsFocus

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TomsFocus last won the day on December 19 2022

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About TomsFocus

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  • First Name
    Tom
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    NA
  • Ford Year
    Non
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Suffolk

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  1. It really depends on the engine setup and the material quality etc. Back in my Peugeot days the 2.0 HDI dry belts still looked new after 10 years/100k when I was changing them. Ford then used Peugeots interval when they started using Peugeots diesel engines. I guess that's why they stuck with the idea when they moved to the wetbelt in the 1.0EB. 100k is just a nice round number and isn't likely to be covered by the first owner, who will be considering maintenance costs in the first 3 years or so. I don't think it's actually based on real world 'testing' as such. I will add that at the same time as the HDI belts were lasting over 100k, the equivalent petrol engine - 2.0 GTi6 - was known for putting a lot of strain on the belts, and they had an interval of just 30k! As I say, totally depends on the engine.
  2. There is no time limit given in the MOT manual. Wording is simply 'light indicates a fault' for ABS, Airbags, EML and a few others. (Not all lights part of the test). I would say they should pass despite the delay, but it'll be down to tester discretion if they deem the delay to suggest a fault is present.
  3. Yes. There is oil mixed into the air con gas to keep the pump lubricated. There's a seal inside the switch that's probably failed. It's an easy one to unplug, just has a little tab on the right hand side (as pictured). If you unplug it you should be able to confirm whether there's oil inside the plug. As for your brake fluid leak. The clutch uses the same fluid on these and there's a chance the slave cylinder is weeping. I'd have a look underneath the gearbox, to see if you can see fluid seeping out between the engine and gearbox. If not, then I suspect a leaking brake drum cylinder.
  4. Different auto's are setup in different ways. You can't assume info from one will be correct for another. As the Fiesta has a manual handbrake and no auto-hold, I agree with Dave, only use the handbrake in N or P.
  5. All remote keys are expensive unfortunately. Have you tried a local locksmith rather than Timpsons or main dealer?
  6. Correct. You will need to tell the car about the hardware changes. 2014 is an awkward year for enabling software changes in the Focus though. Could be too late for FoCCCus or too early for ForScan.
  7. Got round to testing those batteries today... One's holding 3.6v...the other 0.1v!! Guess they're both scrap now then. Really glad I kept them in storage for all this time.
  8. Which one lol? I'll assume it's a 2.0... I think the TB is right on the front of the engine on those. It's easy to find anyway, will be on the thick intake pipe. If you can find it, remove the air intake pipe to it and just check the flap moves smoothly when you switch the ignition on. It won't move much while the engine is running. If you can get Forscan on it, that might show us some more codes than the generic reader. While I do agree, he's already been to a garage where they've fobbed him off with an easy fix and can't be bothered doing a proper diagnosis... Unless he knows of a decent local garage, we're probably the best option at the moment.
  9. Same triangle with a square holder to be used while replacing a damaged circle.
  10. That's on the side of the boot. Not under the parcel shelf.
  11. That's the Air Con pressure switch.
  12. Top yellow circle is the loom plug for the engine ECU. Bottom yellow circle is one of the gear selector cables. I agree that air filter isn't particularly bad. Seen much worse. I doubt you'll get a noticeable improvement in economy from replacing it but no harm in doing it as they're cheap & easy.
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