TomsFocus

The clutch is probably slipping when the pedal sticks down, so full engine power isn't reaching the gearbox.

Deflation Detection System It uses the ABS sensors to measure tyre circumference through wheel speed. If pressure drops, the tyre size changes very slightly and become out of sync with the other 3 wheel speeds.

Most Mk2.5s have DDS available, just not activated as standard. Only takes a few seconds to activate with ELMConfig, or possibly Forscan nowadays. No extra hardware needed but can be a very useful feature. My Mk2.5 drove poorly on the day I picked it up. Steering was really heavy and didn't handle great - though I just assumed that was the handling of a 'modern' car, compared to the old one I'd been used to. Wasn't until I got fuel & checked tyre pressures a few days later I realised there was a slow puncture. 🤦‍♂️

Pre-heating the interior & defrosting the windows. Personally I just couldn't waste all that fuel idling an engine on a cold map though. Would rather just wear a coat.

All well and good until the fob battery fails.

Pull the switch out and check for power to it with a multi-meter. If it was a non-genuine switch, it's not uncommon for them to break within a few months.

The whole point of keyless entry is convenience. Having to use a Faraday pouch defeats the purpose of it. Also worth noting that Faraday pouches don't last long, the material breaks down pretty quickly when fobs are being pushed in & pulled out regularly. Solid tin is more effective long term. If people are that bothered about keyless entry though, they can either switch it off, move to a better area or buy a car without it. Really not a massive issue.

Ironically, that little black square suggests they do! Must be an old school thief that's still jamming a screwdriver in a lock barrel!

£60 from Ford - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393418812948?

You can order them from Ford or directly from McGard.

Fault codes need to be read again.

Although other electrics work, if there are no warnings for immobiliser, 'press brake' or engine malfunction then chances are the battery charge is too low for the starter motor.

Don't think I've ever walked around the house with keys in my pocket. First thing I off-load for comfort when I get in. Considering relay theft generally happens late at night, chances are most people would be sat still anyway. Of course, the major flaw there is if they get up to see what the noise is outside. FWIW, I specifically chose a car without keyless entry this time. But not for fear of theft (nice area, away from the main road etc), simply because the two keyless entry cars I owned long term both killed the 12v battery and fob battery in what I'd consider a short time. I've owned a non-keyless Golf for 5 years now and still not had to change the fob battery.

You could try these. Though I'm not 100% sure they'll fit, or what the quality is like. 2x Red PR21/5W 567 BAW15d 780 P21/5W LED Reverse Signal Tail Stop Brake Light UK 702646208467 | eBay

Then you'll need a red LED in 780 fitment for the combined brake and tail light. Won't be easy to find. I can't see one on Autobeam.

It is progress, just poorly executed. Security has to evolve constantly, whether that's on cars, houses, computers, etc...there's always someone trying to breach it. In hindsight, it seems odd that it took so long for someone to come up with the idea of sleepy fobs. 🤔

Hazard flash under hard braking has been common to many cars over the past 20 years. DRL flash is caused by camera frame rate.

Yes, but there are two different types of rear light cluster on the Mk2.5. The brake light bulbs are different between them. So we need to know which yours are first. The LED versions use an LED strip across the middle for the tail lights, but standard bulbs for indicator and brake. (These were fitted as standard with Xenon headlights). If you have non-LED tail lights, you'll need a red LED with a 780 offset pin fitment for the combined brake & tail bulb.

Easiest way to narrow it down is to have the fault codes read, ideally with something Ford specific such as Forscan. That should confirm whether it's a boost leak or not. Quickest way to check if it's a boost leak is by ear and eye though. Get someone else to rev the engine while you look and feel around the boost pipes. You're correct about the throttle body being top left. If the noise is coming from there, first thing to do would be tighten the jubilee clamps on the boost hose. Second check would be the plastic pipe behind the throttle body, make sure it hasn't cracked and that the MAP sensor hasn't snapped and been blown out of it.

This is normal, I've seen it on a few different cars. Not actually a fault, just where the suns heat allows the dash covering to settle into the groove around the airbag cover. It is designed to be specifically weak so that the airbag blows out in the correct direction. The only fix would be to replace the entire dashboard. I can't see Ford (or any manufacturer) doing that for a minor aesthetic difference.

Did you upgrade to LED tail lights? The brake bulbs are dual filament if you have the standard non-LED tail lights but single filament with LEDs. They're also an awkward fitment in these, with offset pins, so you can't just fit any normal '382' bulb. Need a 782 bulb with LED tail lights or 780 without.

People generally just glue them on with Tigerseal or similar.

£80-£120 for a new aftermarket part. £200+ for new genuine part.

The towbar module fuse is underneath the battery fusebox. F78 40A. Power Distribution Box - Bottom There are fuses located on the bottom of the fuse box. To reach the bottom of the fuse box: Release the two latches, located on both sides of the fuse box. Raise the inboard side of the fuse box from the cradle. Move the fuse box toward the center of the engine compartment. Pivot the outboard side of the fuse box to reach the bottom side.

Lol, at least it makes a change from all the Sync threads...