TomsFocus

The clutch is probably slipping when the pedal sticks down, so full engine power isn't reaching the gearbox.

Just now, StephenFord said:

I hate acronyms LOL Have googled it, am no further - what the heck is DDS??

Deflation Detection System

It uses the ABS sensors to measure tyre circumference through wheel speed.  If pressure drops, the tyre size changes very slightly and become out of sync with the other 3 wheel speeds.

56 minutes ago, Hooded said:

There’s a reason I’m currently driving around in a MK2 and it’s not because I can’t afford a MK4. I don’t even have TPMS which is an example of an extra expense (when something goes wrong/or sensor battery dies) I didn’t need when I passed my test 30 years ago. 
 

New cars are getting electronically too complex. In the past you could buy an 10+ year old car as a beater and get cheap motoring (if you bought a good one), but the latest models won’t be so desirable to maintain once they are that age due to all the potential electrical faults. 

Most Mk2.5s have DDS available, just not activated as standard.  Only takes a few seconds to activate with ELMConfig, or possibly Forscan nowadays.  No extra hardware needed but can be a very useful feature.

My Mk2.5 drove poorly on the day I picked it up.  Steering was really heavy and didn't handle great - though I just assumed that was the handling of a 'modern' car, compared to the old one I'd been used to.  Wasn't until I got fuel & checked tyre pressures a few days later I realised there was a slow puncture. 🤦‍♂️

3 hours ago, billyboy said:

I cannot think of a reason why I would want remote start. I was brought up never to leave a vehicle unattended with the engine running.

Pre-heating the interior & defrosting the windows.

Personally I just couldn't waste all that fuel idling an engine on a cold map though.  Would rather just wear a coat.  

14 hours ago, iantt said:

Each vehicle has got its own GPS location so we know where they are most of the time. The odd occasion I've been known to be tasked to find a lost vehicle by walking the lines clicking the remote fob🤣🤣🤣 

All well and good until the fob battery fails.  

47 minutes ago, Darren 1 said:

Hi - I had an issue with an incorrect boot open warning and have changed the switch (above the number plate) and the latch (in the tailgate).

Everything was fine for 3 months but now the switch does not work. There is no noise or anything. The boot opens fine when the boot button on the key fob is pushed twice in a couple of seconds. I'm guessing the issue is that no electricity is being passed to the switch but not sure what to do? Any help would be appreciated.

Pull the switch out and check for power to it with a multi-meter. 

If it was a non-genuine switch, it's not uncommon for them to break within a few months.

3 hours ago, billyboy said:

Surely keyless cars have been around for that long everyone must know about faraday pouches. If they are too lazy to use them then they must face the consequenses.

The whole point of keyless entry is convenience.  Having to use a Faraday pouch defeats the purpose of it. 

Also worth noting that Faraday pouches don't last long, the material breaks down pretty quickly when fobs are being pushed in & pulled out regularly.  Solid tin is more effective long term.

If people are that bothered about keyless entry though, they can either switch it off, move to a better area or buy a car without it.  Really not a massive issue.

10 hours ago, unofix said:

If only you had keyless entry it would have saved a lot of damage 😉

Ironically, that little black square suggests they do!  Must be an old school thief that's still jamming a screwdriver in a lock barrel!

£60 from Ford - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393418812948?

You can order them from Ford or directly from McGard.

Fault codes need to be read again.

Although other electrics work, if there are no warnings for immobiliser, 'press brake' or engine malfunction then chances are the battery charge is too low for the starter motor.  

Don't think I've ever walked around the house with keys in my pocket.  First thing I off-load for comfort when I get in.  

Considering relay theft generally happens late at night, chances are most people would be sat still anyway.  Of course, the major flaw there is if they get up to see what the noise is outside.

FWIW, I specifically chose a car without keyless entry this time.  But not for fear of theft (nice area, away from the main road etc), simply because the two keyless entry cars I owned long term both killed the 12v battery and fob battery in what I'd consider a short time.  I've owned a non-keyless Golf for 5 years now and still not had to change the fob battery.

5 minutes ago, mrmetallica said:

ive searched and cant seem to find anything suitable cheersill just stick to red bulbs .

You could try these.  Though I'm not 100% sure they'll fit, or what the quality is like.

2x Red PR21/5W 567 BAW15d 780 P21/5W LED Reverse Signal Tail Stop Brake Light UK 702646208467 | eBay

5 minutes ago, mrmetallica said:

mines a mk2.5 mines not led just bulbs hth

Then you'll need a red LED in 780 fitment for the combined brake and tail light.  Won't be easy to find.  I can't see one on Autobeam.

It is progress, just poorly executed.  Security has to evolve constantly, whether that's on cars, houses, computers, etc...there's always someone trying to breach it.  In hindsight, it seems odd that it took so long for someone to come up with the idea of sleepy fobs. 🤔

20 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

I've noticed that on more recent episodes of Top Gear, when on 'the track', cars often under heavy braking have their front LEDs flashing quickly. I always assumed it was an optical illusion that the LEDs may have reacted with the cameras, but, have they actually wired them to flash under heavy braking??

Hazard flash under hard braking has been common to many cars over the past 20 years.

DRL flash is caused by camera frame rate.

1 hour ago, mrmetallica said:

ive got standard bulbs but trying to work out what led bulbs will fit my car

Yes, but there are two different types of rear light cluster on the Mk2.5.  The brake light bulbs are different between them.  So we need to know which yours are first.

The LED versions use an LED strip across the middle for the tail lights, but standard bulbs for indicator and brake.  (These were fitted as standard with Xenon headlights).

If you have non-LED tail lights, you'll need a red LED with a 780 offset pin fitment for the combined brake & tail bulb. 

Easiest way to narrow it down is to have the fault codes read, ideally with something Ford specific such as Forscan.  That should confirm whether it's a boost leak or not.

Quickest way to check if it's a boost leak is by ear and eye though.  Get someone else to rev the engine while you look and feel around the boost pipes.  

You're correct about the throttle body being top left.  If the noise is coming from there, first thing to do would be tighten the jubilee clamps on the boost hose.  Second check would be the plastic pipe behind the throttle body, make sure it hasn't cracked and that the MAP sensor hasn't snapped and been blown out of it.

This is normal, I've seen it on a few different cars.  Not actually a fault, just where the suns heat allows the dash covering to settle into the groove around the airbag cover.  It is designed to be specifically weak so that the airbag blows out in the correct direction.

The only fix would be to replace the entire dashboard.  I can't see Ford (or any manufacturer) doing that for a minor aesthetic difference.

Did you upgrade to LED tail lights?  The brake bulbs are dual filament if you have the standard non-LED tail lights but single filament with LEDs.

They're also an awkward fitment in these, with offset pins, so you can't just fit any normal '382' bulb.  Need a 782 bulb with LED tail lights or 780 without.

People generally just glue them on with Tigerseal or similar.  

£80-£120 for a new aftermarket part. 

£200+ for new genuine part.  

50 minutes ago, Colin Street said:

I have devoted this morning to trying several options but locating the fuse is proving a challenge too.

The towbar module fuse is underneath the battery fusebox.  F78 40A.

1. Release the two latches, located on both sides of the fuse box.

1. Raise the inboard side of the fuse box from the cradle.

1. Move the fuse box toward the center of the engine compartment.

1. Pivot the outboard side of the fuse box to reach the bottom side.

10 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

Crikey, Tom's issue of an errant domestic smell is worthy of it's very own thread! 🤣

Lol, at least it makes a change from all the Sync threads...