TomsFocus

Could always drink your wine from a 3" rolled stainless mug. CEUK Branded Mug - 3" Rolled Exhaust Tip Style | Car Enhancements UK

You won't get much more noise from a diesel engine, especially one with a turbo. Exhaust fell off a 2.0 HDI I had once, downpipe snapped, drove around like that for a few months before scrapping the car, barely made a difference to the noise inside or outside. Also put a straight through on a 1.9 TDI, and again not much difference in tone, just a bit more turbo whistle. Had a lovely Milltek de-res on a 2.0 petrol Fiesta ST, sounded great at idle, raspy under load and wasn't at all unpleasant while cruising. Had an awful Mongoose (I think!) on a 2.0 petrol GTi-6, the droning on that was so awful I couldn't drive it more than about 10 miles at a time, even on B-roads at 30mph! There are so many variables that it's difficult to get an exhaust right first time, and obviously too expensive for trial & error. Best advice I can offer is to ask a local stainless exhaust specialist for a quote. Tell them exactly what you want - no droning but a nicer idle burble and a bit of throat under load, you can also specify the type of tip you prefer (I still like a rolled slash cut myself!) if going for a visible tip. As long as you're just going for a cat-back, I reckon that can be made up well within your budget.

Hi, not sure I'm understanding the fault here. The car is always immobilised when you lock it, even with the key blade in the door. If the car locks by pressing the fob, then the alarm should be enabled as well. What makes you think it isn't?

Ah ok. These engines do tap a bit when cold, and get worse as they age. It's generally caused by the tappets but they can't be easily adjusted on this engine. Just something to live with really. As long as you've got good oil pressure (no oil pressure light) then I don't think changing the oil pump will cure the fault.

To confuse things even more, rim width is measured in inches. So working out which tyres are best suited to a rim needs a metric to imperial conversion. Who decides these things?

Ok, it sounds like that's just a coincidence then. There's no vacuum assistance for the clutch, only for brakes. If you're buying a vac tester as mentioned above, you can also bleed any air of the clutch line.

I'd expect 300 Bar in the rail at idle so that looks spot on. (100kPa = 1 Bar) I suspect the blue tinge is a bit of a red herring, either excess breather oil or a weep past the turbo oil seal. Main problem is likely to be the injectors imo. Are any of them leaking at the base? If not, I'd want to send them off for internal testing.

I didn't really mean add sealant to the old one. Can't see that being effective unless you fully remove it and clean up both surfaces first. By thet point you might as well fit a new one.

30 years ago maybe... Glad I spent a decade in diesels. Never would have happened if I'd listened to older relatives. Hate to think how much more I'd have spent in petrol over that decade. 😮 Still remember the first time I drove a decent diesel...instant torque and a huge power band from VNT boost. And easy 55-60mpg over a tank. And cheaper road tax. And no need to use the throttle for slow manoeuvre or the handbrake for hill starts. Didn't miss the hassle of the old NA petrol doing 35mpg at all! (Note, I say decent diesel, as I did learn to drive in a diesel, but it was a 206 with that horrible Ford 1.4 TDCI in it! )

45mpg is about 10 miles per litre so makes for easy mental calculation. It's about 13p per mile atm.

It was never updated after about 2016 sadly. No Mk8 Fiesta or Mk4 Focus etc. I haven't seen any site giving part numbers for the latest models. If you do find one, please let us know as it's a major barrier to the advice we can offer on here.

It's called ETIS but it's been decommissioned now. The replacement is here, but there's very little that the public can access for free now. Really the only thing it can show is the service intervals. https://www.fordserviceinfo.com Part numbers can be found using 7zap.

2007 can really only be a UK Mk6. Mk7 wasn't introduced until 2008, and they didn't carry the Ghia trim level over to those anyway.

Most likely to be the GEM. That's what controls the wipers on modern cars. There's no harm in trying another stalk, but if you're getting a click at the GEM that suggests the stalk is making some connection.

Can't just swap the clocks as they're coded to the car. You can pay someone to code them in and correct the mileage though. Regarding the headlights, yes you'll need to swap those for a RHD set. I think you'll also need to replace the rear fog light with a RHD version.

You'll probably need new ones. Are the alloys OEM or aftermarket?

About an hours labour. Plus you'll need fresh oil (and filter). Would estimate around £200 total at a small independent garage. Can probably double that at a Ford main dealer with considerably higher labour rates and genuine part cost. (**Edited to correct. The oil pump labour time on this engine is more like 4 hours including cambelt replacement.**) Why do you think you need a new pump? If you're getting the oil light on with no other symptoms, chances are it's probably just the oil light switch on this particular engine.

The yellow one is listed as 'starter inhibitor', so I would assume that's the one that prevents starting, and probably also triggers the stop/start. The other one will be for PCM rev matching and cruise control cancelling etc. I don't know why all functions can't be managed with just one switch though. I've never changed one on a Fiesta so not sure how good the access is. Generally, when the clutch switch fails, the dash will ask you to 'press brake' to start. If that doesn't happen, I wouldn't be convinced that your non-start is caused by a clutch switch fault.

Someone probably knocked it if it's wobbly. If it's physically broken, all you can do is replace the mirror base assy with another one. Can use your own glass & cover.

Should be on the side of the battery box.

The fact that it dropped so low suggests there was likely to have been a battery drain (module not shut down properly) instead of 'normal sleep' over that week. After mine was recharged once, it never went flat again.

Plastic just doesn't take well to heat cycles and becomes brittle over time. Worse still on aftermarket parts made with cheaper plastic. You can add some liquid sealant around the edge of the housing as a belt & brace approach, though ultimately it's probably not the seal that's leaking.

You might get away with jump starting it. My Mk4 battery dropped to about 2V but jump started fine and charged up quickly after being run for a bit.

The clutch is probably slipping when the pedal sticks down, so full engine power isn't reaching the gearbox.

Deflation Detection System It uses the ABS sensors to measure tyre circumference through wheel speed. If pressure drops, the tyre size changes very slightly and become out of sync with the other 3 wheel speeds.