TomsFocus

Do you know which type of headlights you have? I would assume it's just fixed halogens or fixed LEDs on the Transit? If so, you'll need to buy stickers. If you're not sure, have a look at the headlight dial, if it has manual level adjustment (settings 1 2 3 4) then you have fixed lights.

Thanks guys. I was overthinking it earlier. Have just taped over it with a few strips of parcel tape to make a square. Won't know if it's worked until this evening. I don't know what type of trap it is, just the cheapest available when it was built around 20 years ago I guess. I can't tolerate the smell of bleach either unfortunately. Hoping to get some bicarb or something to try and neutralise without adding another smell.

Can you post a photo? Is it a vacuum actuator or electronic actuator?

I'd guess that spare doesn't have a chip in the blade - probably just programmed the remote and the keyless parts. But regardless of that, as you've got two original keys that don't work in the emergency position, that does sound more like a fault with the car rather than the keys. We can probably also rule out the keyless antenna as it doesn't de-immobilise through the chip & pickup ring either. I'd say the problem lies with one of the modules. Either the keyless module or the GEM. @JW1982 May be able to advise further on this.

Ok, there's two different systems here. The pick-up ring for the proximity chip is around the barrel - that's the thing with the 0682 number on it. If you've got an original key with a chip in the emergency blade, that should work totally separately from the keyless system.

What do you mean by no power? If you've still got the original key fob, you can use the emergency key blade in the hidden key barrel to over-ride the keyless issue. Only problem is if you've got a replacement key fob, they don't always put the proximity chip in the emergency key, as I found out myself!

There's definitely one keyless antenna in the boot on both Mk2.5 & Mk3. Did you not find it at all? It's right at the back of the boot, almost at the rear seats, only need to pull the floor carpet out to see it. I'm not sure if there's a second one in the headlining or possibly under the arm rest on these.

That's the only thing up here that I haven't been able to check so far. There's no access under the shower tray and I can't get low enough in the cubicle to see down it properly. Wondering if there's any way that I could create an air-tight seal over the trap for a day just to prove whether it is that or not. Would a damp wad of kitchen roll work? (Not loo roll as that'll just fall apart). The smell was awful last night, could barely breathe in there even with the extractor fan running.

I saw 28P on an old episode of Wheeler Dealers yesterday. That must have been an expensive plate, but it's just fitted to a Merc Sprinter! MOT check shows it's still on the road 10 years later.

I have smelt a fair few dead rodents & birds and wouldn't say it smells like that either. There must be a fairly large inaccessible void judging by the way my soil pipes are routed behind a false wall. There's no inspection hatch though, so no way to have a look without considerable destruction.

It's not paint, although a similar smell. Hot water pipes is a good idea though. I'm not sure where their pipes run. Mine are under the floors being upstairs. But I suppose theirs could be above the ceiling. 🤔 There's no smell in the kitchen. I have tried to fill in the hole around the basin waste pipe but that hasn't made any difference to the smell. Had to fill in around the toilet waste pipe when I first moved in as there was a terrible draught when using it!

Never heard of anyone doing it. Ford dealerships don't sell used parts.

Don't like the weird smell returning in my shower room. Can't remember if I've mentioned it on here before but it's not the standard bathroom type smell, it's more like paraffin or meths. Seems worse when the flat below is occupied, but I just can't work out what it is or where it's coming from. Been two different occupants down there yet the smell is exactly the same. First thought would be a gas leak but there's no gas in our building, everything is electric. Second thought is drains, but seems an odd smell for a drain? U-bend in the loo & basin have plenty of water in them so shouldn't be any smells coming up through those. Any ideas?

Full set of bars here - FORD ESCORT RS TURBO SERIES 1 & 2 REAR TIE BAR TIE ROD SET INC BUSHES XR3i MK3 4 £69.50 - Suspension and Steering - Tie Rods, Linkages & Ends Car Parts UK (carpartsexpress.co.uk) If your bars are in good condition, you can just replace bushes which might be easier to source.

Ah ok, I think it's part number - 1141274 Very helpfully named 'Ford clip' without a picture on eBay. Genuine Ford Clip - 1141274 | eBay

Part numbers for spoiler & parts below. I doubt you'll find a NOS spoiler for one of these though. Probably better off searching for a used one. Tailgate And Related Parts FORD Escort/Orion 1986-1990 (DA) (7zap.com)

Here is one of the procedure guides as PDF - TM_Sheet 01-2014 e.indd (mahle-aftermarket.com)

Standard problem with the 16v DV6 engine. The turbo feed pipe clogs with carbon deposits. Can easily blow a new turbo in under 10 miles. This problem has been known about for over a decade, so there is a full procedure for replacing the turbo on these, including replacing the oil feed line and cleaning out the sump & oil pump etc.

Have you tried giving the tailgate a 'shove' in the latch area? Might just not have latched securely the last time it was opened. If that is the case, then yes the tailgate could open while driving.

We rarely see any posts about the retractable towbar, let alone positive responses. Either they're generally fairly reliable, or there weren't many fitted. I can't recommend anyone specifically in your area but would suggest trying either a Ford specialist or even an auto-electrician next. The towbar system can't be that complex. Essentially it'll just be a few sensors and a motor. I would have thought Ford's diagnostic system could at least provide a fault code as to which of those might be causing the problem. If not, will just have to methodically go through plugs, wiring, sensors etc, make sure everything is clean and tight until the cause can be found. If you don't use the towbar, you could pull the fuse for it to stop the beeping, as long as the fuse doesn't cover any other circuits.

First check is the coolant level if not already done. If the coolant is low, there's likely to be air in the system giving the sensor false readings. Next check would be the sensor itself, however it comes as part of the thermostat assembly on these, so not cheap or easy to replace. The sensor is not available separately from Ford, though there may be aftermarket suppliers offering them. Genuine Peugeot Citroen Ford 2.0 BlueHDi Diesel Thermostat & Housing 9804160380 | eBay

I don't think you're allowed to harpoon seals anymore. Not very humane. Is it these ones? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385052356853?

Part number: 1449541 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265500392774?

Ford don't call it a thermostat. It's just called a 'solenoid assy' on the parts catalogue. Part number - 1223988. I've also seen it called a degas shut-off valve. Radiator/Coolant Overflow Container FORD Focus 04-08/Focus C-MAX 03-07 (CAP) (7zap.com)

Towbar electrics? Aftermarket parking sensor module?