TomsFocus

Rev hang may be caused by a faulty clutch switch. The PCM tries to match the revs for a smoother gearchange when you press the clutch. Odd that it's only happening in one gear though. I'd probably just ignore it for now...

The oil pump on the 4 pot is driven directly from the crankshaft using a square hole. Doesn't need a belt or chain. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393457864723?

As with Powershift, there are many variants of DSG. Most are reliable, and a far greater percentage of Golfs are DSG than Focus's.

Ok, the cambelt is overdue if not changed already so that's worth checking. That engine is generally pretty reliable though. It's a Ti-VCT for clarification. There was also a 1.6 turbo petrol (EcoBoost) at that age, but it wasn't offered with an automatic gearbox.

The colour code is LB on your sticker. I reckon it's the one above the highlighted one. Code L, with B for 'Bluer'.

If you want a 10 year old automatic that's Focus sized...then I'd recommend a Golf. VW do DSG better than Ford. Having said that, we don't see that many Powershift faults on here nowadays. Which engine is it?

This engine doesn't use a tank fuel pump.

The colour code is on the sticker in your driver's door shut. Please post a picture of it so we can confirm.

It's not a problem, that's what the forum is for. So far, I haven't seen or read about any chain faults on either the 1.0 or 1.5 EcoBoost engines. I would expect the chain to last the lifetime of the engine. I have read about one or two oil pump wetbelt failures on the cam-chain 1.0 engine, but even that is still very rare at the moment. Bear in mind these have been out for 5 years now. There were many failed cambelts on the earlier engine by that age. Obviously the oil pump is crucial to keep the pressure up around the engine bearings, so if the belt does snap then the engine needs to be shut off immediately to prevent internal damage. However, that should still be repairable, unlike a cambelt failure where pistons hit valves and effectively scrap the engine.

Not quite... The 1.5t petrol was a 4 cylinder with a dry belt in the Mk3 Focus up to 2018. Then it was totally redesigned as a 3 cylinder engine with a cam-chain from 2018 onwards (release of Mk4 Focus). Yes, the oil pump wetbelt on 1.0/1.5 EcoBoost petrol's has a recommended interval of 10 years or 150k miles. I agree it is all a bit over-complicated nowadays! 🤔

No, that's not correct I'm afraid. 1.5 EcoBlue is still a dry belt. Replacement interval of 10 years or 120k miles. The 1.0 EcoBoost & 1.5 EcoBoost petrols were fitted with a chain. (But still use a wetbelt for the oil pump).

Try a drop of oil down the bores. They're probably dry after all this time and not making good compression if it wont even fire on carb cleaner.

What's the colour code? There are two similar Ford colours, Micastone and Dark Micastone.

2.0 diesel has wetbelt so good chance of that breaking at some point. 1.5 diesel has dry belt. Seems to be a generally reliable engine, although they have the odd fuel leak or tank fuel pump failure. EcoBlue engines will need an adblue top up every 5000 miles or so.

Ok, I might suspect the starter motor in that case. The resistance of the windings increases when hot, so there's less power available for the starter motor, meaning it turns a bit more slowly, which isn't necessarily picked up by ear. Also worth checking the thick cable to it and the thick earth cable as well, to make sure they're not fraying at the ends.

Although the battery charges ok while idling, it's not getting enough charge to 'maintain' a good voltage overnight. You can try charging the battery with a mains powered battery charger instead. It will take several hours. That should give you a few weeks without the 'remote features disabled' message. If it doesn't, you may have a fault with the battery, BMS or another module that would need to be repaired under warranty. Ford shouldn't be suggesting yearly servicing for a Focus MHEV in the UK. It's 2 years or 18k miles. However, many Ford dealerships send the same automated email to every customer, suggesting that they need a yearly service. I was told this was an 'oversight' by my local dealership when I complained about it (especially where they suggested warranty would be void without a yearly service!) but sadly a year later they had still not rectified this 'oversight'. I wonder how many customers are being ripped off by this... It is worth noting that most Ford dealerships offer free breakdown cover with a service. That only lasts one year, so will expire if you don't have a yearly service with them. However, you can purchase your own breakdown cover.

I haven't bought a Haynes manual in the last decade. The basics have all remained the same (suspension, brakes, filters etc) and you can generally find anything else on forums or in YouTube videos. The only thing Haynes is good for is torque settings and wiring diagrams...but those are often questionable (typo's presumably) so I'd rather have those confirmed by someone with access to Autodata or similar.

Do you have any local breakers yards? I wonder if you could pick up 2 or 3 valves cheaply from different cars. Hopefully one of them will be genuine. I've heard of the cheap eBay ones being crap but it looks like there are only two different types on eBay!

Oil pressure switch is located at the bottom right hand corner of the oil cooler assembly with a light grey plug.

https://uk.corgi.co.uk/products/ford-focus-mk3-st-race-red-va15303?_br_psugg_q=ford+focus

Does it run ok when warm or does it lack power? Coil pack is the usual culprit for poor warm running, but not necessarily poor warm starting.

I'm genuinely surprised it's still running! 😮 Probably is just a faulty valve rather than anything else causing it to fall apart. I'd try another valve first. New vac pumps are so expensive, but as Ford don't sell the valves separately, the only way to get a good quality valve is by buying the whole pump assembly. Used vac pumps are a risk as you won't know if it's come from an engine with a clogged oil pump which can wreck the vac pump if left for too long.

You may have the option of DDS through the ABS sensors instead. Not as accurate as TMPS but better than nothing. Can probably be activated through Forscan.

Sounds like they're fobbing you off. Engine malfunction warning has nothing to do with servicing. Somethings broken, the fault codes need to be read to help diagnose what that is. You can try driving it for a bit and the light might go out if there's just a brief glitch or the battery charge is low, but the chances of that are fairly small.

That pipe goes to the bottom of the reservoir and uses the same type of connector both ends so should be easy enough to remove if you can get your hand in there. As a first attempt, I would just try putting it on the new MC (as shown in your pic) and then forcing the pipe on over it. For reference, I think it's this pipe but there are a few options - Genuine Ford Clutch Master Cylinder Tube 1514352 | eBay