TomsFocus

Why didn't Ford tell them what the problem was though? If the car really was taken to Ford for diagnostics, it seems weird that they'd just say 'yeah, the sensors are fine' without looking into why they aren't registering on the car? They have all the equipment to work that out far more efficiently than we can do over the internet.

Thanks, yeah that'll be an early Mk4 (pre-facelift). In that case, the 1.5 EcoBoost is probably the best engine choice in those. They're 3 cylinder, which gives them a slightly different sound, but they're generally very reliable, more so than the older 4 pot in Mk3s. Plenty of torque too, I had the 150 version and didn't find it lacking. MPG wasn't quite as good as I hoped, in the high 30's. At that age it'll still have independent rear suspension which is a major plus point for both ride and handling. STLX gets sports suspension and large wheels which can reduce the comfort a bit, depends what you're used to. By far the biggest issues with the Mk4 are the battery charging (or lack of it due to tight emissions regs) - factor in a battery replacement soon if not already done. Can't think of anything else major to check on these. Worth checking for any water leaks and making sure the AC is ice cold.

Aren't the wingnuts plastic? Buying another one is probably the easiest option, though it might rattle annoyingly if you can't retrieve the original.

Ah, that'll do it! Not available through DVLA so it must have been purchased by someone at least once . You could go for RY60 XXX... In fact, RY60 NAS is only £250 on DVLA site.

2018 is the crossover year. Is it late Mk3 facelift or early Mk4 that you're looking at? The 1.5 EB engine is very different between them.

I've just done a car check and surprised to see that F13 STA isn't currently assigned to a car. I can't believe that in the 30 odd years since F reg no-one has put that on a Fiesta. 😮 I guess maybe someone has it on retention, don't think there's any way to check that.

On the left hand end of the sticker you'll see a column of small boxes. The second box up is the colour code, will just be one or two digits.

I think it's these but there are a few different hose choices so best to double check with the parts supplier. Lower pipe - 1741659 Upper pipe - 1742539

You didn't quote that post or answer it directly though. The recent poster probably didn't even get a notification for it.

Probably got broken when the tailgate was caved in. Double yellows & loading lines is an interesting parking choice as well. As Stephen says, there are plenty of used bumpers online and at breakers yards. Hopefully you can get a tailgate from the same car...

Ah, never looked at that page before. Looks like it is all reactions. Thought it would have been a bit unfair to praise 'likes' without 'thanks' lol!

If you can take it for a short drive it might reset itself. If not, disconnect the battery for 20 minutes.

Check for a snapped spring on that side.

The 'service now' warning is a fault light, it's not a service reminder. Fault codes need to be read, ideally with something Ford specific such as Forscan.

Have you tried the SOS garage in Oldbury? If they can't do it, I'm sure they'd know someone who can.

You've won something better than an RS... Internet points!

Is it just likes, or all reactions including thanks etc?

The Ti-VCT was all about efficiency. Ford spent a lot of time and money tweaking the old 1.6, making it over-complicated, when they should have just have designed a smaller engine and stuck a turbo on it... The main stat under the alternator is fairly normal, it just controls the flow of coolant through the radiator, albeit electronically, giving greater precision and control than a conventional wax 'stat. The secondary 'stat is pretty clever for it's time. It reduces the engine coolant circulation by closing off the reservoir pipe when cold. This gives the engine a quicker warm up time. When coolant temps reach 80c, the secondary stat should open, allowing coolant to circulate up the reservoir.

I haven't seen the diaphragm available separately but that doesn't mean they aren't. Probably easier to get the whole thing used from a breakers yard as long as you check the replacement isn't leaking.

Driveshafts do eventually cause a vibration, but not necessarily in the early stages. The wheel would have been removed for the cambelt change. As you mention the road resurfacing - Has the road been freshly chipped and have you driven on it since then? If so, there's probably just a stone trapped between the disc and disc guard. Will be an easy fix if it is that!

Yes, it's a secondary thermostat (controlled by PCM using electric solenoid), only fitted to Ti-VCT models.

I suspect they'll recommend a new set of brake pads. Driveshaft is another potential cause.

I don't think any tool will easily remove those ones. They're not designed to be removable. Best option is going to be brute force with pliers, but that has the potential to damage the bumper.

Museum of Failure Main - Museum of Failure

People will still flock around the more interesting electric cars. (Although obviously not alerted by the exhaust note lol). In the same way you probably wouldn't be interested in a rusty old Micra wheezing through the car park, but would stop and look at a Skyline... There were loads of crap cars in the 60s as well. Fortunately most get scrapped when they become financially unviable, leaving the most interesting examples. These are all electric...maybe not to your taste, but they'll certainly draw a crowd!