TomsFocus

Which engine is it? Have you got the exact fault codes?

You won't get a code any further in depth than that one, it's already given you the closest it can. It's showing that the DPF differential sensor reading is too low. You now have to do some testing to find the cause of that low reading. The first and easiest test is to visually look at the pressure pipes coming from the DPF up to the sensor on the battery box. If they're split or damaged in any way, the sensor readings will be wrong. If they look ok, you can then run a live data graph in Forscan, showing the DPF sensor readings alongside the RPM and road speed. That will give us an indication of how low the reading is, whether it rises during higher RPM driving, and how low it is when the code is triggered. That will then give us an idea of whether the sensor may be faulty, or whether the cause of the fault lies elsewhere. It's not as simple as a code telling us exactly which part needs replacing I'm afraid! This is what you pay garage diagnostic fees for, the code reading is just the start.

P1607 basically means the cluster isn't getting an engine warning light response from the ECU when it requests a test. That suggests that either the ECU is still faulty or the wiring to it. I would strongly suspect the ECU after it was blowing fuses. There are so many small electronic components inside an ECU that I'm not convinced it'll be ok just because it's stopped blowing fuses. Ideally, the wiring should be tested before condemning the ECU, but that's not a simple task.

It's the same, the additional numbers aren't important. For future reference, if you click on the code in Forscan, it will bring up some general info about it and suggested causes. My advice is still the same as posted above. Probably also worth checking for a water leak in the boot, as that many codes on the PAM suggest a water damaged module. That shouldn't be triggering the engine light though.

Makes it all the more confusing about how yours can be going so wrong!

This thread was posted in 2015.

Nothing new there tbh, the only useful code is the one you already knew. Though now you have Forscan, you can run a liv data graph with differential pressure to see what the readings are during normal driving, and more importantly, when the code gets triggered.

I'm sure half the UK lives off oven chips lol. They can't be that much of a failure. Perhaps you're buying own brand versions? Or chunky, steak cut, type? Standard McCain or Aunt Bessies, fan oven at 220c for 20 minutes were fine for me.

Unlikely to get many rude plates in 'new style' as the DVLA ban them all. It's literally someone's job to work out every rude plate that could be made with the new number each 6 months! I treated myself to a private plate for a milestone birthday. It's just my name and age. Irony is I haven't been able to drive for a while so didn't assign it to a car. It was just something on my bucket list. How sad is that!

Your car's paint has probably faded over 20 years. I doubt the original colour code would still be a perfect match. Any good paint shop should be able to sample the exact colour of your car and mix it.

That's definitely a 'Northern' quote. The 2.0 TDCI is a pretty easy belt to change, so you're not looking at 'wetbelt' kind of costs. Though I'd still expect more like £350-£400 myself. There is no better way to estimate the cost than getting your own quotes locally I'm afraid.

Yeah, exactly that.

Ok, in that case, checking the belt would be the next step. If you've got an assistant, you can watch the camshaft turn (or not) through the oil filler with the cap removed. If you don't have an assistant then you'll have to open the cambelt cover to check the belt that way.

You'll have to do some testing. Next time it fails, check the battery voltage straight away, and see if there's a parasitic drain an hour after parking. Alternatively, you could try simply replacing the radio with a good used one. If it doesn't make a difference, you can sell it on to recoup the costs.

As it's a 10 year old 1.0 EcoBoost, there's a high chance the cambelt has stripped or snapped. Can you hear any compression when it cranks or is it just spinning over very easily?

If you haven't already guessed, this probably isn't the right place to advise on fun mods... If you're after a reverse camera, Bluetooth kit or a Werthers Original then you're in the right place!

First suspect would be the stereo. Sounds like it could be shorting out somewhere which would then drain the battery. It is possible that it's a red herring though, and that it's shutting off because of the low battery voltage, instead of being the cause of it.

As yours is the wet-belt engine, I would have an oil change done every year. Nothing else needs changing (unless you want a fresh pollen filter). If it was the chain driven engine, I would be more inclined to leave it 2 years between oil changes.

Thanks. They're the same width as the new ones (6.5J). But with 5.5mm less offset, the rim will sit 5.5mm closer to the suspension. If you get any inside rubbing, you could use a 5mm spacer to move them close to the original distance.

Yes, 195mm is perfectly acceptable on a 6.5J rim. Do you know the offset of your current alloys? (Measured in ET)

And Ford didn't tell them what the problem might be?

I wonder if you could fit maybe 3 or 4 o-rings in line to create the same effect?

You'll just have to take my word for the Mk2.5 being on 0 miles. Can't find the correct pic!

I've done 20+ miles on '0 miles' on a Mk2 Focus, but it was a 1.6 TDCI doing around 55mpg. Done around 30 miles on a Mk3 Focus 1.6 TDCI. Done about 60 miles on Mk6 Golf after it first hits 0...but for some reason it then jumps back up to 30 miles again! Think the previous owner wore out the bottom end of the sender by only filling small amounts each time. I don't like to fill up before hitting 600 miles in a Focus or Golf.

Very simple job. Just remove the roof light with a small screwdriver or trim tool. Then you can access the aerial base.