TomsFocus

2018 is the crossover year. Is it late Mk3 facelift or early Mk4 that you're looking at? The 1.5 EB engine is very different between them.

I've just done a car check and surprised to see that F13 STA isn't currently assigned to a car. I can't believe that in the 30 odd years since F reg no-one has put that on a Fiesta. 😮 I guess maybe someone has it on retention, don't think there's any way to check that.

On the left hand end of the sticker you'll see a column of small boxes. The second box up is the colour code, will just be one or two digits.

I think it's these but there are a few different hose choices so best to double check with the parts supplier. Lower pipe - 1741659 Upper pipe - 1742539

You didn't quote that post or answer it directly though. The recent poster probably didn't even get a notification for it.

Probably got broken when the tailgate was caved in. Double yellows & loading lines is an interesting parking choice as well. As Stephen says, there are plenty of used bumpers online and at breakers yards. Hopefully you can get a tailgate from the same car...

Ah, never looked at that page before. Looks like it is all reactions. Thought it would have been a bit unfair to praise 'likes' without 'thanks' lol!

If you can take it for a short drive it might reset itself. If not, disconnect the battery for 20 minutes.

Check for a snapped spring on that side.

The 'service now' warning is a fault light, it's not a service reminder. Fault codes need to be read, ideally with something Ford specific such as Forscan.

Have you tried the SOS garage in Oldbury? If they can't do it, I'm sure they'd know someone who can.

You've won something better than an RS... Internet points!

Is it just likes, or all reactions including thanks etc?

The Ti-VCT was all about efficiency. Ford spent a lot of time and money tweaking the old 1.6, making it over-complicated, when they should have just have designed a smaller engine and stuck a turbo on it... The main stat under the alternator is fairly normal, it just controls the flow of coolant through the radiator, albeit electronically, giving greater precision and control than a conventional wax 'stat. The secondary 'stat is pretty clever for it's time. It reduces the engine coolant circulation by closing off the reservoir pipe when cold. This gives the engine a quicker warm up time. When coolant temps reach 80c, the secondary stat should open, allowing coolant to circulate up the reservoir.

I haven't seen the diaphragm available separately but that doesn't mean they aren't. Probably easier to get the whole thing used from a breakers yard as long as you check the replacement isn't leaking.

Driveshafts do eventually cause a vibration, but not necessarily in the early stages. The wheel would have been removed for the cambelt change. As you mention the road resurfacing - Has the road been freshly chipped and have you driven on it since then? If so, there's probably just a stone trapped between the disc and disc guard. Will be an easy fix if it is that!

Yes, it's a secondary thermostat (controlled by PCM using electric solenoid), only fitted to Ti-VCT models.

I suspect they'll recommend a new set of brake pads. Driveshaft is another potential cause.

I don't think any tool will easily remove those ones. They're not designed to be removable. Best option is going to be brute force with pliers, but that has the potential to damage the bumper.

Museum of Failure Main - Museum of Failure

People will still flock around the more interesting electric cars. (Although obviously not alerted by the exhaust note lol). In the same way you probably wouldn't be interested in a rusty old Micra wheezing through the car park, but would stop and look at a Skyline... There were loads of crap cars in the 60s as well. Fortunately most get scrapped when they become financially unviable, leaving the most interesting examples. These are all electric...maybe not to your taste, but they'll certainly draw a crowd!

Which engine is it? Have you got the exact fault codes?

You won't get a code any further in depth than that one, it's already given you the closest it can. It's showing that the DPF differential sensor reading is too low. You now have to do some testing to find the cause of that low reading. The first and easiest test is to visually look at the pressure pipes coming from the DPF up to the sensor on the battery box. If they're split or damaged in any way, the sensor readings will be wrong. If they look ok, you can then run a live data graph in Forscan, showing the DPF sensor readings alongside the RPM and road speed. That will give us an indication of how low the reading is, whether it rises during higher RPM driving, and how low it is when the code is triggered. That will then give us an idea of whether the sensor may be faulty, or whether the cause of the fault lies elsewhere. It's not as simple as a code telling us exactly which part needs replacing I'm afraid! This is what you pay garage diagnostic fees for, the code reading is just the start.

P1607 basically means the cluster isn't getting an engine warning light response from the ECU when it requests a test. That suggests that either the ECU is still faulty or the wiring to it. I would strongly suspect the ECU after it was blowing fuses. There are so many small electronic components inside an ECU that I'm not convinced it'll be ok just because it's stopped blowing fuses. Ideally, the wiring should be tested before condemning the ECU, but that's not a simple task.

It's the same, the additional numbers aren't important. For future reference, if you click on the code in Forscan, it will bring up some general info about it and suggested causes. My advice is still the same as posted above. Probably also worth checking for a water leak in the boot, as that many codes on the PAM suggest a water damaged module. That shouldn't be triggering the engine light though.