TomsFocus

I suspect the current light isn't original anyway. Surely they couldn't make 7 revisions to the headlight during the first year of Mk6 production?

Petrol or diesel?

I tried to obtain technical information on current models from both Ford and VW a few years ago and they were both utterly useless. Not sure whether they'd be any better with an older model, or if they even know the Mk2 existed... You've got nothing to lose by asking them though. (Except the cost of the call, your time, and the will to live when they come back with a generic nonsensical answer that's completely irrelevant to your query. ) I suspect they'll just check the same parts catalogues that we can check through catcar & 7zap. Unfortunately, the catalogues are contradictory - I've seen reference to 3 different types of nut used with different models on the 5 spoke steels, although interestingly, can't find any of them using the 2 piece nuts.

You do have to remove the AC pump for wishbone bolt on this engine. The system does not need to be discharged as it can be moved on the flexible pipes. Just make sure to support the pump using bungee cord or something so that it does not strain the pipes.

Should be 'When someone speeds up to pass me after I pulled out on them and then failed to maintain a constant speed'. It's not about getting any further!

Manual levelling is an MOT requirement. It's a safety issue if you're dazzling other driver with the boot fully loaded. Though I'm not sure many testers actually check it in reality. Defect Category (a) Headlamp levelling device inoperative Major (b) Manual levelling device cannot be operated from the driver’s seat Major

Can you post a picture of the fusebox diagram from your car? Levelling fuse is separate from bulbs fuse. The pictograms may not be immediately obvious.

Looks like it's only the heater that's faulty. The lambda sensor will still work correctly, just takes more time to warm up from the passing exhaust gas instead of being internally heated from cold start. As you're not experiencing any issues, I wouldn't say it's worth the cost of replacement.

Agree'd! There aren't any additional parts that need to be removed for changing wishbones, so unless something else is obviously broken there's nothing else worth changing imo.

The only way to tell for sure is to check when the seats are out. Zetec and above generally has the wiring, but Edge was such a basic spec that it may not have the wiring present.

Some Mk3.5s we're still being registered after the Mk4 came out so that won't help us unfortunately. As Unofix says, a quick description of the car, or ideally a photo/sales link is the best way to confirm.

I don't have access to torque settings unfortunately.

2018 could be either Mk3.5 (with wetbelts) or Mk4 (with chain).

No worries. Sadly, I don't think they make them for the non-turbo 1.6. You could get one custom built to fit. Though I had a Milltek de-res on a Mk6 ST and didn't feel the need to change the cat. My recommendation would be to spend the money on something else.

There's no such thing as a sports decat. You can either have a decat which is just an empty pipe (doesn't reduce emissions, fails MOT) or you can have a sports cat, which costs more but is still a cat, still passes MOT, but is made with larger holes for less exhaust restriction.

You can upload videos to YouTube and then link them across.

There is no dash button for Mk7. Just a button under the Ford badge on the tailgate. These buttons break fairly regularly, so chances are you just need a new one. Here is a link to the genuine part. You may choose a cheaper aftermarket part instead. Genuine Ford Rear Boot Tailgate Lock Switch 1857333 | eBay

Don't fit 2 washers. Are you sure the old washer didn't come out with the old injector? If there's definitely a washer in there, it needs to come out otherwise the new injector may not seal properly and you'll have to redo it.

Sounds like it's moving too far over and hitting reverse instead. That would suggest that the lateral cable is too short. This is the adjustment mechanism. When fitted new, the R clip is pulled and the yellow clamp pushed in to hold the adjuster. For a used cable, you will have to pull the yellow clamp out, then move the bar inside slightly, then press the yellow clamp back in. It may take some trial and error. And if you get it really wrong you can lose all gears.

Have you got any further with this? This video shows how the reverse lock-out works on Fords. It's simply a physical plastic barrier in the lever mechanism. Nothing changes at the gearbox end when you lift the collar. So, first question for today - can you still lift the collar, or is it permanently stuck in the up position? If it's permanently stuck, that has to be a fault with the collar itself.

Back in my Peugeot days the GTi-6 showed oil level with ignition on, then switched to oil temp with the engine running, using the same analogue gauge.

Yes, the only gear you can select on that side with the collar lifted is reverse. So it sounds like it's the collar cable that's at fault, rather than the shifting cable.

I take it this is a 6 speed box? Sounds like the collar is stuck 'up' as if you've lifted it to reverse. Not sure what the fix is off the top of my head but will keep thinking.

No worries. A 2014 will be Mk7.5, but eBay doesn't separate facelifts.

WZ is Australian model. VI (Roman 6) is European model. To complicate things further, in the UK we call them a Mk7, as someone couldn't count properly a few models earlier. I would also urge caution when using the eBay compatibility check. It's not always accurate.