TomsFocus

I really hope you just forgot to lock it...I'll be worrying about my own otherwise!! There was a common issue with Mk4 Golfs getting broken into with no damage when I owned one, but I cant see the same thing being possible with the Focus and can't think of any other way to do it.

That's the instant MPG, flick it onto the average MPG reading... Of course 'miles' per gallon will be terrible at idle as you're using gallons but not covering any miles.

I would agree with Ian, changing those pipes takes less than half an hour. But it will almost certainly need regenerating after which takes different amountsof time depending on how clogged it's got. They aren't replacing the DPF itself, your bill would be 4 figures and it'd take most of the day if so lol.

Seems to be some confusion on exhaust smoke here! Black is partly burnt fuel (too much fuel, not enough air, usually a boost leak). White is totally unburnt fuel, can be oil or diesel (blown turbo seals or knackered glow plugs) White steam is just water (normal from combustion, but a lot can be a blown headgasket) Blue is fully burnt oil (valve stems, headgasket, piston rings) Too much oil will find a way out through the weakest seal, but there is a tolerance built into the dipstick anyway. A couple of mm over the max mark probably won't cause any issues at all. At main dealer srvices I was tod to fill the oil right to the maximum mark as the owners may not check it in the whole year before the next service!

Sounds like Ford just wanted to blame the one thing that's not theirs... The stereo does come on and go off with the ignition yes? If so, shouldn't be any problem. Do you have a multimeter? If so, test the battery voltage when the alarm goes off.

Hmm, ok, well it does seem electrical related then as you say. Really need to get some live diagnostics on it to go any further.

Ah ok, that is kinda normal at idle with heavy loads on, usually called 'hunting', the alternator will struggle to feed them all without a few revs but depends how bad it is. Was it alright when you drove with the loads on was it still jumpy?

Ok, fair. It should have thrown a code when it sees 0kPa pressure difference under load but it might be a 'silent' fault (no EML). Arthur may well be correct that you only start seeing problems when it attempts a regen, not sure.

That's interesting, it should be throwing a fault code at least. Have you only driven it gently so far or given it some stick? Also no, it should regen every ~500 miles as a failsafe regardless of pressure.

Ah I see, yeah there is still oil in gas shocks believe it or not. They just use gas to keep the oil under pressure iirc. It's a thin clearish oil used in shocks that I've seen though, totally different to the thick slimy greeny black CV grease. And it leaks from the top of the shock when the seals do fail. Best thing to do is put the wheel on full lock when checking the CV boot, will open one side up to make it easier to a split, might only be a tiny pin hole caused by road debris.

As above, the black around the injectors is the injectors leaking...this may also cause an odd noise. However it could just be that it wasn't cleaned up properly after the seals were changed last year. Personally I would clean the area with some sort of degreaser and see if the mess comes back. You can also place something long and hard (a screwdriver!) on the injector and place your ear at the other end, that will magnify the sound so you can pinpoint where its coming from. On another note, your headgasket is most likely fine, combustion creates water/steam so it's perfectly normal to see some from the exhaust.

ELMConfig will tell you what triggers the alarm the last 5 times iirc. You would also be able to deactivate it (at least the siren if not fully) with that software.

That looks like CV grease to me tbh, look harder for a split lol!

They probably are waiting for the new month...even for just £30. I know I would!

You would need to record more data to check that. Record battery voltage over a trip with different loads and see what's happening. These use a SmartCharge alternator so aren't as simple to test as regular alternators. What is actually happening under load though? Is it 'misfiring' at idle? Or are you driving with the high loads on and its juddering/jerking?

Mine does this just before a regen kicks in...

Done it on my Titanium without any hassle at all, just plug and play then activate with ELMConfig. You'd have to check if you have the wiring in a Zetec, but I think you will.

I wouldn't go with white personally...they'll be covered in brake dust most of the time lol. But yeah, I use Hammerite, either brush or spray, both work well in my experience.

I agree tbh, drop down a gearfor the hills. My 1.6 diesel struggles uphill in 5th at anything under about 50, they are heavy cars for such small engines, and being a petrol you won't have much torque either which is needed for pulling uphill. The car won't need a retune...maybe if it was a 1980's model, but cars these days all have 'learning' ECUs to get the ideal fuelling. A service may help though, if it hasn't had one for a while the filters get clogged and restrict the air and fuel eventually, though I'd hope that's not the case on a fairly new car!

ITV or C4...urgh adverts!! I barely watch anything other than BBC, such a shame TG won't be on there anymore, not as we know it anyway. Looks like Chris Evans will be the new host but he's a bit boring compared to Clarkson imo. I fully agree that Clarkson should be punished for violence (especially when he's much better at smart wit and sarcasm!) but I don't think sacking him was the best idea. Especially considering how many viewers TG pulled in each week.

Ah I see. Can't see any smoke with factory tints so I don't know what mines like lol. I just rely on the change of engine note, judder, mpg dropping and fans to know when it is. Fortunately it didn't smell again after the first regen, was awful the first time haha.

It only regen'd on Friday so shouldn't do another for a while, can't seem to guess it yet though. I may try a 3k run though, will see. :)

I don't know...the mpg would make me cry doing that lol.

Is that specific to the PSA Eolys type DPF Mark? Got a link? Most I've read have been more about the truck style ones or the newer VAG (and Euro 5 Ford) style coated DPFs. So the pressures and temps are irrelevant to us with the Eolys ones. I know the basics, it's just the specific info on these ones I can't find unfortunately. Simon, do you ever notice it doing a regen? I really wouldn't be surprised if it had been gutted, that would explain why it's not given you any issues as well lol.

I would imagine you have a sensor issue there tbh, especially with the mileage you said. Are you sure you've even got a core in there, hadn't been gutted before you bought it? There is definitely an issue with mine (see other thread) but I would expect max peak of around 6kPa on a decent used DPF, 1kPa is alright while cruising. I'm happy to be proved wrong though, there's not enough specific DPF info about really, a lot of generic info (loads of different types though!) and a lot of rubbish from people that have just asked Fred down the pub haha. Trying to get info from Ford seems impossible as well.