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Everything posted by TomsFocus

  1. Xenon's or halogens? There is a fuse for headlight adjustment if halogens.
  2. No. Still happens occasionally. Doesn't seem to be any pattern to it. Failed to charge a few days ago at 30c ambient. But charged fine yesterday at 33c, so presumably not linked to temperature. Have just accepted that it's something I'll have to live with as I can't manage the hassle of returning for repair or replacement in my current situation.
  3. Almost certainly yes, but if you can post a picture of the engine bay, we can confirm 100%.
  4. Yes, true. I've been assuming that the wheels in question were from a Mk2 Focus or Mk1 C-Max but they did fit them to Mk3.5 Focus as well. No idea why as they're still not fooling anyone! I would also feel more comfortable using one-piece nuts on alloys, space saver and 5-spoke steels of this age.
  5. On standard steels yes. But the 5 spoke steels were designed for use with alloy nuts.
  6. BMS is battery monitoring system. It must be reset after a new battery is fitted. The battery should be fully charged before resetting the BMS, so as it's already been fitted for a few days, if you can charge it now that would be ideal. When you're ready to reset the BMS, there is a basic sequence of pressing buttons. Video showing the process here.
  7. Yes, they have the same taper. However, they have a different torque settings to one-piece so shouldn't be mixed. 130Nm for one-piece, 110Nm for two-piece. Oddly, my 2008 Focus came with solid nuts, but 2-peice locking nuts. Was only 6 years old & 46k when I got it so assumed they were original. Owned the car 3.5 years and always meant to replace the lockers but never did... I wouldn't recommend that setup to anyone else though.
  8. The 5 spoke steels use the same nuts as alloys of the same age - one-piece with a pressed metal cap - 1678260
  9. Tried watching Gremlins (1984) last night. Thought it was going to be a gentle comedy about some cute little creatures. That turned out to be a mistake! 😮
  10. I don't think that's what he was asking. Simply that cars don't speed up when a HGV tries to overtake. Which applies to all vehicles, not just HGV's. Never understood why the people choosing to hold everyone up also don't like being overtaken!
  11. Ok. In that case, you'll need Ford diagnostics to check what the last alarm triggers were. You can either use Forscan yourself, or take it to a Ford garage. Did you reset the BMS after replacing the battery?
  12. Hopefully you're on a multi lane motorway when doing that. There are no motorways in my county, only dual carriageways. This means that when a car sits at 55mph in the left lane, and forces a HGV to overtake them at 58mph in the overtaking lane, it slows everyone to sub 60mph causing massive brake ripples and huge tailbacks. Unsurprisingly, there are accidents on these roads every single day. Very few of those are caused by excess speed! It still baffles me as to whether people don't understand the ramifications of their actions, or whether they just don't care. As I say, this is specifically for dual carriageways. Multi lane motorways are more capable of managing slow traffic in one or two lanes.
  13. Both cars with the same issue after the same garage fitting the same parts can't be a coincidence... Take it to a better garage. Ideally a Ford specialist who will have Ford specific diagnostics.
  14. 2.0 blacktop crank sensor location However, I doubt the crank sensor is at fault. These still used a mechanical speedo drive on the gearbox (above the diff) and I suspect it's that that's broken.
  15. There isn't really a best way. Just whatever works for you. Keep persevering with it and it'll go in eventually. (PS - I really don't envy you working on the car in this weather!)
  16. Do you have any dash warnings for bonnet or doors open?
  17. Boost control position sensor fault. Could be either the triangular sensor on the end of the turbo actuator. Or a faulty boost solenoid.
  18. That's a major career change from presenting the weather. Not sure if you've seen it but Seat won't be bringing out any new models now. They're just sticking with the current range until an unconfirmed end date. The brand itself will disappear after that. Unsure whether that's been 'pushed' from the VW group or not at this stage. The Cupra brand will continue producing full EV's. There are a few Cupra Born's near me now, more than ID3's ever have been!
  19. Try putting the front bolt in first?
  20. I wonder if @iantt carries spares in his hand luggage?
  21. Hire a body builder? Seriously, sounds like they've been buzzed up with an impact gun. If a 3ft breaker bar won't shift them, you'll probably need an impact gun to do it. Preferably air powered as I doubt a battery gun will have enough torque. May need to have wheel alignment done after replacing wishbones to correct the steering centre.
  22. Each to their own. It's currently 33c in here with the curtains closed. Small south facing flat with glass French doors is basically the same as a car parked in the sun all day.
  23. I don't like that 7zap has now hidden part numbers from public view. Looks like they're making it a paid service now. Catcar still works for now, but it's not as elegant as 7zap, and slightly less reliable in my experience. (I also don't like this relentless 30c+ heatwave that has now lasted for more than a week!! 🥵 )
  24. While I'd never suggest modern Fords to be the pinnacle of reliability, you do seem to have been extra unlucky with this one. The Ford dealer is correct, this engine uses two chains, one for the camshafts, and another for the oil pump. No wetbelt on these. If metal shards have been seen in the oil then there is some major internal fault. But it's not clear in your post whether that's just one persons 'suggestion' or whether that's actually been confirmed? Cam and crank sync could be caused by reduced oil pressure as the timing chain tensioner is hydraulic. But if the chain was loose you'd hear it rattling. It's also possible that one of the VVT solenoids is faulty and not advancing the cam timing as it should. Could you confirm what faults are noticeably present on the car right now? And any fault codes that have been triggered?
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