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About dave678

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  • Ford Model
    MK6 Escort 1.8 Si
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  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. Has anyone fitted the above to their Escort.Just wondered if any recommendations along with an aerial. Thanks in advance.
  2. If you're not doing the welding yourself probably not worth it.I don't think scrap prices are that good at the moment,so might be worth spending time removing anything in good condition,if you can be bothered/have the time.
  3. Hi Janinea, According to Haynes you remove the door inner trim panel and the insulation sheet.On the cabriolet you have to remove the door window glass to get access to the door locks.Where fitted undo the two screws and remove the barrel shield.Slide free the barrel retaining clip,detatch the connecting rod and remove the lock barrel. Open the boot and undo the screw securing the barrel retaining clip and remove clip.Detatch the barrel from the link rod and withdraw the lock from the boot lid. Hope this helps. Dave
  4. Hi Colin,According to Haynes,remove the steering column upper shroud.Their are two retaining bolts at the rear of the steering wheel,which become accessible,when turning the steering wheel as necessary.Don't forget to de-activate the system first. Switch off ignition. Remove key. Switch off all electrical equipment. Disconnect battery neg. lead. Wait for fifteen minutes before commencing work.
  5. Looking in the Haynes manual,2.6w capless.
  6. Just check those fuses again,sometimes they look ok,but have actually blown.
  7. As having been on the Motability scheme in the past and currently as a carer,this is unusually high mileage.The current allowance is 20000 per year,so they would have had to pay charges.I'm currently doing 70 odd miles a day and i'm expecting to hit 15000 at the 12 month stage,this is determined by college term times though.The car should have been fully serviced,even tyres are covered.To be fair,everything is covered in the contract,any problems you take it back and it's sorted.If the bodywork is free of dings and scrapes,as this is always a concern with ex-motability,then that will be a bonus.A lot of these cars do have extremely low mileages as people use them for Tesco's and the occasional hospital visit.This is what Motability like.If you intend to use the car a lot and mileage is an issue,probably look elsewhere.Good luck.
  8. By shorting out the multiplug and getting the fan to work,shows the thermostatic switch is at fault.Have you fitted a new switch?To test the switch is working correctly,you need a continuity tester.Run the engine up to temperature and when you'd expect the fan to cut in,place the leads across the switch terminals with the meter set to ohms and see if the needle deflects across,this shows the switch closing and would operate the fan.According to the Haynes manual,the fan is fed from F9.
  9. You've said you could not completely get rid of the air bubbles,you do need to, otherwise the pedal will never feel firm.Be patient and try again.Just a thought,are you opening any of the bleed nipples excessively and possibly sucking air in at the same time.
  10. Try checking the indicator units for water ingress,this could be causing an intermittent short.
  11. Can anyone tell me which relay R2 is in the Haynes wiring diagrams? Thanks.
  12. I removed the fusebox on my 97 1.8si to try and fix a problem with my rear screen heater.Marked all the relays,links etc to make sure they went back in the right place, Connected everything back up,wipers lights all wored ok until I came to start the car,nothing. If I hold the key in the start position and close the yellow R13 relay the engine turns over but doesn't start.I've noticed since that the LED below the clock now fails to illuminate when the ignition is turned on. It's got to be something simple,any ideas much appreciated.
  13. Welcome to the Ford forums dave678 :)

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