Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


pfeilmayer

Members via FB
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pfeilmayer

  • Birthday 06/07/1985

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Robert
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk 3, 1.5 TDCI, 120PS
  • Ford Year
    2015
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Germany

Recent Profile Visitors

613 profile views

pfeilmayer's Achievements

  1. Hi Ken, unfortunately none of the 3 diagnostic tools can activate the clutch. I have thought of this but either the tools don't allow me this procedure or I am blind enough not to see/find this. The only thing I found was the "self-test" or On-Board Diagnostic Function that ran successful. I will look for the evap temp as well, thank you for your input.
  2. Hi, thank you I did not find the On-Board Diagnostic Function but I did a "self test" (I think is the same with the On-Board Diagnostic Function) that I activated it through the diagnostic equipment. Obviously no faults at all were found 😞
  3. Hi Tizer, I noticed that too but at first I chose to ignore that. Now I see that 215C is on 3 different diagnostic tools and tend to believe the sensor is bad. I changed the sensor. At least the one I thought is the culprit but either I replaced the false one or the replacement sensor is also bad. Please see the video below. Thank you Hi KenM, thank you for your input. Everything I did on the weekend is in the video below. Please take a look. Measuring pins from the relay, bypassing the relay with a jumper cable to power the compressor on, toping up the refrigerant, replacing sensor .... What I've done in the past few days :
  4. Hello Patient: Ford Focus Mk3, 2015, 120ps, 1.5 diesel Symptoms: AC does not work (does blow cooled air), compressor and fan do NOT turn on. What I've done so far: 1. Diagnosis. I have NO error codes on the car, none whatsoever. 1a. I also read the information in real time, the video with the data will be posted in a link below. 2. I checked ALL the fuses in the 3 fuse panels: under the hood, in the passenger compartment, in the trunk. I have NO faulty fuses! 3. I checked the pressure in the installation, the pressure is correct, KOEO with AC off, the pressure is identical on the HI and LOW sides (18 deg. C, +-30 PSI). 4. I replaced the pressure sensor (the fastest part to change so I have no other doubts regarding the sensor). Conclusion: the old pressure sensor is either good or the new one is defective. Probably both are good. OEN Part 5471192/ MEAT & DORIA K52097 5. I optically checked the 2-pin plug that goes into the climate compressor and the harness and I did not find any broken cable, eaten, cut, etc., under the car! 6. I measured if the compressor receives voltage. Here I discovered the first bug: NO, the compressor, on that 2-pin plug, does NOT receive voltage, although according to the button pressed and confirmed by the diagnosis, the command to start the AC exists! 7. To rule out the compressor / electromagnet, I fed the compressor directly, with other wires, from the car battery, and immediately the electromagnet / clutch engaged and started spinning. - Problem 1 for point 7: The fan still does not turn on - Problem 2 for point 7: although the clutch / electromagnet / compressor is powered directly, the car does not cool down, only normal air enters .... - Problem 3 for point 7: Even though the compressor is powered, the pressure on the HI and LOW remains relatively the same. Theoretically, once the climate is on (the compressor is running) the pressure on the LOW should drop to 0 and the HI should rise. NO, they remain the same Other info : 8. With Forscan and Launch, the reading at "x1000 CACRP" is 399.0, with slight oscillations up to 401.0 (expressed in kPa). Ist the same when if I have the engine off (Key On Engine Off) or with the engine running and if I'm not mistaken even when the engine is on and the AC is "on". („on“ meaning that it is set to minimum temperature, set on auto or manual with maximum speed and the AC button pressed ... 9. The Pressure Sensor voltage is about 0.82V - 0.88V as shown in Launch and Forscan What I haven't been able to test yet: relays. I'm going to get a relay tester and check those too. I have no ideas left. I ask if anyone knows something, can give me an idea or if anyone has some experience, please give me some advice. To shorten the list of tips: NO, I won't go to the service, I won't go to the dealership, I prefer to remove all the AC from the car than to go to the service! 😄 Thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time and actively and positively contributes with any idea to solve the problem! Info, pictures and videos can be found in the attachment and in the links below: Diag Data Stream https://www.youtube.com/shorts/obK4-gSmNP4 Diag Data Stream 2 https://youtu.be/LhyKOy14tG0 Refrigerant Pressure https://youtu.be/tvT7XmCsuhA (important to mention : here I was powering the compressor/clutch externally with 2 wires directly from the car battery) Additional info but I don't think it's very relevant: 2 years ago my climate radiator was changed under warranty. Somewhere it had a hole where coolant was lost. As can be seen from the pressure test, I did not lose any pressure and it does not seem to be a problem.
  5. This is the 3rd time I check the wires ... I uploaded some photos here, here and here though I doubt that you will undestand anything from my bad photos. Anyway I followed the instructions from here actually. But now I see something confusing : on the wiring diagram, on the OBD connector pinout says: Pin 6 can HI and pin 14 can LOW. on the wire ELM connector the (red wire) pin 14 is can HI and the (green wire) is can LOW. Any chance that these 2 wires are inverted ?! Should I invert in ELM connector these 2 wires ?! Thank you L.E. : Inverted those 2 wires. same sh*t. I'm starting to think that there are only 2 possible reasons remaining : ECU incompatibiliti (20%) or "new"/modified ELM clone from china that does not work with this mod (80%).
  6. Hi I knew there was something more :D. So I did what you requested ... HERE is the video (unlisted, I hope the link works) " Engine Malfunction " appears on LCD as soon as I switch to HS
  7. Hi everyone, My name is Robert, I drive a Ford Focus (actually this is my 4th Ford, the 2nd Focus and the first Focus MK2 :) ). I'm a big Ford fan, obviously and I hope to learn some new things here, help and be helped if needed ... Cheers Robert Pfeilmayer
  8. Hello I bought an ELM327 from ebay, made all mods required but the moment I switch to HS CAN the car starts beeeeeeping :). Nothing else happened. Car is still "alive" but in ELMConfig at the HS CAN options, none are available to check/uncheck, read and/or write. Functions on MS CAN seem to be working (only read infos tested) fine. This was about 6 months ago ... but now I would like to try again :) to see if I can make any changes, but for sure the problem still exists since I made no changes to my car and the interface ... My car : Focus 1.6 TDCI80KW (109PS) G8DD, VIN WF0SXXGCDSAS24542 . Did I scr*w up something in the ELM interface or my ECU is not compatible ?! Anyone had the same problem ? Is there any solution ? Thank you ! Best regards, Robert Pfeilmayer
  9. Welcome to the Ford forums pfeilmayer :)

    If you get stuck on how to post a question on the forums or trying to message a member then check out our video guides to help you get started!

    http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/forum-0/announcement-47-how-to-use-our-forum-video-guides/

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership