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    Focus MK2.5 Zetec 1.6 Petrol
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  1. Ok so I was wrong the whole time. Turns out the alternator was the problem all along. Had a new Remy alternator fitted in spring of 2019 after the original one finally died. I guess it was ok until winter came and that's when the car was often unable to start in the mornings vs during the warmer months. Replaced with an OEM alternator now and haven't had a drain since.
  2. Hello all During my battery drain woes and issues I stumbled upon a thread explaining relays so I decided to check mine - notably "R6" or the engine management relay. I identified the position of the relay based on this diagram: Then I took a picture of mine: Is this normal?! If not, does anyone know what type of relay I need to get and where I can get one? Thanks
  3. Yea same, after about 30 mins, but the drain continues through fuse 107 regardless. As expected, I left fuse 107 removed last night and what do you know... no drain this morning. So now it just a matter of figure out WHY the ODB system / instrument cluster battery supply is draining and what do I need to do to fix it?!
  4. Another quick update - I think I have narrowed down the culprit fuse with 99.9% confidence, it's 107 (Instrument Cluster Battery Supply and Onboard Diagnostics). When I remove the fuse, there is no drain. I can confirm that the ODO does NOT stay on, it switches off 20-30 mins after I've locked the car as normal. I also used ELMConfig to check all modules for any DTCs, there was one random one which I cleared, but the drain did not stop. Note, it doesn't seem to draw a constant amount but rather it fluctuates. It stays constant for about 3 seconds, then drops for 1 second, then back to the higher amount. Testing the voltage across the fuse when the drain is occurring shows 2.2 mV (for 3 sec) then drops to 2.1 mV (for 1 sec) and back to 2.2. This translates to a current draw of around 300 mA. Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this particular circuit to be drawing current even though the ODB is off and no DTC errors are pending?
  5. Well it's been a few months and I thought I'd report back. The battery has indeed died a couple of times, but it was a good month or so before it happened in April. Happened twice in the same week in late May, and then it happened again once this last Saturday. So it seems the occurrence is completely random. I've tried doing drain tests by removing fuses on the days when it has died, but no particular fuse seems to drop the current (as reported by the clamp meter) - except the one that drives the instrument cluster but that is to be expected, and it's a tiny amount of drain around 0.15A. Wonder if anyone has any ideas what could cause this completely random erratic behaviour on certain days every few weeks / months... and what are the odds it might actually be a faulty battery (battery is a new Bosch S5 that I got in January). Thanks
  6. Ah, thanks for the explanation. That makes a lot of sense. Interestingly enough, since I removed all the fuses one by one the display has been going to sleep 20-30 minutes after locking up the car as expected (so far - been 3 days). I'm hoping it stays that way but I am keeping a much closer eye now that I have a little more insight into wtf is going on.
  7. It's not keyless, I think it's the instrument cluster that is causing the drain when the dash light stays on (and whatever else that stays on along with it). I've been checking the dash light every night and when it is off, the car manages to start up fine the next day. I have a feeling that the next time the dash gets stuck on will probably lead to a non starting car the following day.
  8. Maybe the odo staying on is normal but should it be drawing 0.3A??? That's the main concern here...
  9. Got an update... so I received my clamp meter today and put it on the battery. The current draw was around 0.5 A (which seems really high). I then pulled every fuse one by one and the only one which dropped the current at all was 107 which is the instrument cluster & diagnostics fuse, drawing about 0.3 A. So it then dropped to 0.19 A (which I guess seems a little on the high side, but acceptable? or not?) So ... any ideas why the instrument cluster is drawing that much current even after the car has been switched off and locked? I did notice that the mileage screen is always showing even after the car is left idle and locked for an hour. Do I need to reset diagnostic settings maybe? Thanks
  10. I just tried to start the car this morning and the battery was at 11.9V (down from 12.3V last night). But the car actually started up fine, took it for a 10 minute drive the battery is back to 12.7V. Could the drop in voltage be due to whatever is causing the parasitic drain?
  11. It's actually a new battery, I just bought it in February and it's a Bosch S5.
  12. I'll order one of these and see how that goes. Meanwhile I'm trying to keep an eye on the voltage of the battery (as that's all I can measure). It was 12.9 V when I finished my 30 minute drive, and I hooked up the multimeter and watched it slowly depete to 12.7 V within about 5-10 minutes. And then about 2 hours later when it measured 12.3 V. Does this sound like normal drain? Because if not it seems like going from happening only ever one-two weeks it's happening all the time now.
  13. Thanks I just edited my post - https://www.amazon.co.uk/ACM91-Auto-Ranging-Temperature-Capacitance-Impedance/dp/B07G84XDWH/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=dc+clamp+meter&qid=1585766297&sr=8-10 I found this one for a reasonable price, think it should work?
  14. Thanks for the replies guys - I have an aftermarket radio, I'll try disconnecting it and seeing if it still happens. I tried doing the parasitic drain test using a multimeter but this doesn't work. So today the car didn't start so before jumping it I checked the battery voltage: 10.9 V. Then I disconnected the negative cable and put the multimeter in there in series on the 10A setting, and I got a reading of 0. So it seems, as soon as the battery is disconnected, whatever was causing the drain stops doing so. Looks like I may have to buy a clamp meter. I've never used one before and no idea how to - do you think this one would do the job? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meterk-Multimeter-Capacitance-Resistance-Temperature/dp/B073Y162BZ?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_8 Edit: I realised the one above doesn't read DC current which I would need for the battery, how about this one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ACM91-Auto-Ranging-Temperature-Capacitance-Impedance/dp/B07G84XDWH/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=dc+clamp+meter&qid=1585766297&sr=8-10
  15. If I am not mistaken, while the multimeter is connected, am I to remove one fuse at a time until the drain drops to around 0.03-0.05? And then look up what's on that fuse?
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