wilto

I've got a duratec engine, and the same happens to me, what I do, is all of the above, but when re inserting the dipstick after wiping it (no smutty innuendos please) I also turn the dipstick 360° a couple of times and that seems to get a better reading. Don't know why it does this but someone mentioned it to me on here a few years ago.

This is my Zetec S with 18" RS replica alloys, no issues with rubbing at all.

My car outside Neath railway station June 2018

Hi everyone I'm Charlie 🐕

I've had Eicher discs and pads on my MK2.5 before, and I can honestly say I had them on the front for nearly 3 years and didn't have any problems what so ever, I would even say I had less brake dust from them than I do for my current set up, Pagid discs and TRW ceramic pads.

Yeh that looks like the website I downloaded it from.

I've copied and pasted this reply I had off @Dan P that sorted out my problems when I was having trouble, he was excellent, fair play to him. Here are a set of instructions that I wrote for someone else (possibly @wilto)that was having difficulty with the PCM: On the Information Page select “Read” in order to determine the module type (ESU-131 in my case). Click on “Procedures” then “Page 2” Select the PCM type as identified on the information page from the drop-down menu. Then select “Read firmware from PCM to BIN-file” You will get a warning about disabling power saving and screen saver. Click OK. This next step may take some time and you may feel decidedly anxious whilst you wait – I certainly did – it took 78 minutes to read the PCM. Then select “Load firmware from PHF/HEX/BIN-file”. You will get a warning about a non-empty VID block – select “No”. Click on “Configuration” Ticked the box for “Integrated speed control”. Click on “Procedures” to switch back to the procedures page. Turn the ignition off. Switch it back on to position 2. Then select “Write current firmware to PCM”. I think it was at this stage that I was asked if I wanted to use the current configuration for the PCM – I selected “Yes”. This stage took about 15 minutes. Click on “Configuration”. Click on “Read from PCM”. Click on “Save to file” and save it to laptop. Check that “Integrated Speed Control” box is ticked. Click on “Write to PCM”.

I had to download a copy of the PCM "as built" data from a Russian website, by finding my PCM number listed then upload the file to my car.

If I remember correctly mine took something similar to what you were seeing, around the 80 odd minutes ifirc, I did mine 4 years now, and my adaptor was from tunnel rat's as well, I failed on a few attempts and on one occasion pulled the lead out halfway through writing, totally bricked my car, s*** myself.

Class 🤣🤣🤣👍

If ever your stuck for part numbers in future, this is what I use - https://ford.7zap.com I find it brilliant

I know, when I looked for you, I too couldn't believe the price they were asking, total rip off mate.

Type in to eBay 1434444, I've done a check on 7zap and that is the Ford finnis number. I've got the same model and engine as you, but have never had the engine cover on mine since I bought it.

Where did you get yours from after John?

I am a certified cable tie technician, driving articulated trucks for a living I've always got a selection of them in my bag 😂😂😂😂