Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pauljoanss

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Ford Model
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. pauljoanss

    S Max 1.8 TDCI Will Not Start (2007 done140k miles)

    Spent time on internet and the car today. Puzzled by not getting any resistance reading from glow plugs when in situ, removed them and all showing no continuity from terminal to body. Assume they are failed and ordered new set, cost approx £50. To my knowledge they are originals, so 140K miles old. I am not convinced this is the root problem because many people say they are not necessary unless starting from very cold but at least fitting a new set would eliminate this as a potential problem. If this did not solve the problem then air in the fuel seems a likely possibility. When fitting new fuel filters I have terrible trouble starting because of air and have no method of bleeding. Last time had to tow to garage for them to fit and bleed (hope they fitted it correctly). Seems I need some sort of bleed pump to eliminate air, how, what, where? Away for the next week min, but will report back when new glow plugs fitted, could be in a few weeks!
  2. It had always been a good starter but then started to be more difficult, in both hot and cold conditions. Took to our locally trusted garage, but they could find no problem and it always started for them. They suggested we had not been waiting long enough for coil light on dashboard to go out. Finally it failed while in a Petrol station (engine warm) and had to tow back to base. I assumed it would start the next day, as it had previously, but will now not start at all. Have tried charging battery overnight and jump starting from my car but no good. It turns over ok and will usually "catch" but then fails to pick up and just dies. Not sure how to proceed, is it the glow plugs, I have read that there are not really necessary when starting warm or in mild ambient conditions (as we have now). I have measured voltage to glow plugs at startup on main feed wire when disconnected from plugs and reads about 8.5 v. Have tried to measure resistance of plugs but cannot get a reading, how can you test plugs? Thinking low compression not likely because it has come on quite quickly. Note - engine has long standing problem of oil mess on top LH side which i cannot locate, loss of power and smoke when going up hill fully laden and towing small camping trailer. Otherwise runs well around town! Any ideas or thoughts much appreciated.
  3. pauljoanss

    Exhaust Smoke

    More problems with my son's car,. He reports bad smoke from exhaust when going up hill (black and white) but no great power loss. The engine has a longstanding oil leak from LH rear side of engine, assumed to be some sort of pipe split, this may or may not be related. He has also reported that oil level is 1cm above too mark on dip stick. This is rather strange because I recently did an oil change and feel pretty sure it was not over filled, but I could have made an error. engine is 1.8 diesel 150 k miles EGR blanked.
  4. Can anyone give an idea of how much current the electrics should be drawing from the battery when car switched off.
  5. pauljoanss

    Battery Light

    After much messing, we finally took car to garage and they decided alternator faulty, replaced and light now out, battery reading around 14.5 when running. (may still have problem with battery losing charge, currently investigating)
  6. pauljoanss

    Drivers Electric Window Not Working

    Solved, info in case it helps anyone else. Replaced drivers door control unit with 2nd hand one of eBay (£25) and window raise now working. Retried old unit and definitely faulty. Very surprising because fully sealed unit in dry cool environment so would have been the last electronic component I would have expected to fail before switches and motor.
  7. pauljoanss

    Drivers Electric Window Not Working

    Slow start because of flu. Dismantled door and window mechanism. Mechanism stuck in down mode, when operating the down window rocker switch results in a quiet click from the door control unit and momentary power across the two thick wires on the window regulator female socket (disconnected from regulator). Operating the up window rocker switch results in no click from the door control unit and no power to the socket. My only conclusion is that either the door control unit or rocker switch assembly are faulty so trying to identify replacement parts (used on EBay) to test. Can anyone help to explain how this system works, firstly the switch assembly has 4 rockers/6 wing mirror adjusters/window lock switch, yet only 3 connects, I would love to test it but impossible if I have no idea how it works. Secondly the plug connecting to the window control unit has 2 heavy wires and I think about 4 thinner wires, what are they doing. Very difficult to diagnose a fault if you have no idea how the system works. Any help welcome.
  8. It happens very often that I am having problems diagnosing a fault, particularly with electrical items. My solution is to try and purchase the identical suspect item on EBay (used) and test by substitution then return to seller if no solution. But finding the EXACT same part number is usually very difficult, eg currently working on electric window and suspect the door control unit, original part nos 6G9T 14B533BJ, the closest I can find on eBay is 6G9T 14B533BL only the final digit is different. I normally assume the significance of the digits decreases from front to back and therefore the last digit being different does not concern me too much. Am I right?
  9. Window stuck in down position. Checked fuse and ok. I will be working on the window this weekend, any ideas where to start would be welcome.
  10. pauljoanss

    Battery Light

    2007 1.8 TDCI Battey light on approx 90% of the time. Voltage measured at 11.8 when engine off and 13.8 when engine running and light on. It appears the battery is charging so why us the light showing?
  11. pauljoanss

    Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Planning to carry out the Wynn's EGR cleaner treatment tomorrow but not sure how I can run engine at the required 2000 rpm while working on my own, any ideas? Had hoped the Forscan software might provide a means but laptop playing up (Win 7, stuck in "preparing to configure Windows, do not turn off" for last few days) Regards
  12. pauljoanss

    Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Peter, you are a fund of information, many thanks again. I will report back here with results but maybe a few weeks.
  13. pauljoanss

    Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Many thanks for all that info Peter. Will certainly look to obtain the software and link. My plan A is to try Wynn's EGR cleaner, easy and cheap with some good reports. Plan B will probably be to blank the EGR, but will this give MOT problems. Plan C ??? Would be very interested to understand the mechanism whereby a faulty EGR produces soot in the exhaust. Regards
  14. pauljoanss

    Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Son's car a 2007 1800 TDCI. It has been a bit low on power for some time and now engine malfunction light has been on for last 3 weeks. Just noticed today that there are very heavy black sooty deposits in exhaust pipe, rear box had large hole and again black sooty deposits around hole, Checked for faults with basic OBD device (using TORQUE App), only fault showing was "P0490 - Powertrain", web lookup came back with "Powertrain - Auxiliary - Emissions control - ISO/SAE Controlled Exaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit High" Visually no sign of smoke as he drove away. All ideas welcome. PS any advice on PC based software for fuller analyse of faults. Regards
  15. I am at the planing stage of changing the timing belt on my 2010 Focus with 108k on the clock. Garage quotes are coming in at around £350 so thought I would have a go, but shame I have waited for winter weather. Couple of questions. 1. It appears there are two types of tensioners, according to Haynes pre 2005 and post 2005, both Parts4less and Europarts show two tensioners types for this car but not clear from descriptions which one I need. One is pictured mounted on small arm and one without arm. 2. Bit confused over loosening of crankshaft pulley bolt. Haynes says remove starter motor and lock crankshaft using special tool (which I will buy). It also talks about holding the crankshaft pulley with tool to prevent turning while loosening bolt. Since the crankshaft is already locked with special tool, do you also need to hold the pulley. Maybe required to minimise stress on crankshaft? but makes it a two man job, one holding pulley and one undoing bolt with breaker arm. 3. Not clear if coolant pump driven from aux belt (would not replace) or timing belt (would replace), have different opinion from two garages and Haynes not clear but beginning to look like it runs from the timing belt. Have looked at engine and still not clear. 4. Willing to have a go at making guide for this job, is it worth it, as it seems most guides here are more about customising smaller things than bigger basic jobs. Is it assumed these types of jobs are best left to Haynes?