pauljoanss

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    89
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pauljoanss

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Paul
  • Ford Model
    Focus
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Oxfordshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Update - garage have concluded that the pump has failed and at a predicted cost of £1200, then advised scrapping, bill for their work £200. Car now towed back to my house and deciding what to do. Only 140k and 11 years old so very reluctant to scrap. New pump on Ebay about £400 but very concerned about how difficult to fit and not 100% sure it is the pump? There appears to be a pressure relieved valve on the pump with an electrical connection, could a fault be causing this to trip and drop the pressure.
  2. Quoting direct from log book Model/Type S-MAX ZETEC TDCI 6G Variant QYWA1S Version EURO47CEA RG Vin/Chassis/Frame No. WF0SXXGBWS6J06919 Engine No 6J06919 Cylinder Capacity (cc) 1753 Max. net power (kw) 92 Is there any way to test a fuel pump, other than replacing it and is there any logical process that a dodgy fuel pump could cause this characteristic of sudden pressure drop to zero. Thanks Paul Longworth
  3. Many thanks rbitton782, no i have not checked the fuel pump and I have no idea how to check it. Since this is a diesel, I imagine the pump is quite complex, my only experience of fuel pumps is the old diaphragm ones we used to have on petrol engines. My feeling was that the pump must be mechanically driven and therefore must either rotate normally or not at all, hard to imagine it suddenly stopping. If it was worn, then could give low pressure but cannot see why pressure should suddenly go to zero. The garage seem to think there is some sort electrical problem, I have no idea, but could there be some sort of dump valve which is activated by a signal from something? Still not clear why garage have eliminated air in fuel pipes, whenever i change the fuel filter on this car, it will never start and have to tow to garage for them to "bleed". Same garage that I am using now so must believe them on this point. Certainly must not eliminate the pump, need to know more about its workings and how to test. All information welcome and thanks again for your reply. Paul
  4. (Follow on thread from my original one about not starting) Car will not start, does one cough then nothing. Problem developed over a month when it slowly got harder to start then finally failed completely at fuel garage (engine warm at this point) and has not started since, despite lots of efforts. Fitted new glow plugs, no improvement, and run FORScan. Trace below shows fuel pressure for two consecutive attempts at starting, note pressure drop to zero occurs while still cranking. Gave up and delivered to my usually trusted garage, they have dismissed air in fuel line and fitted new cam shaft position sensor, but no improvement and they now seem to be very short of ideas and I think would like to give up. Any advice welcome, including anything else I can look at on FORScan since it is new to me.
  5. Update. Finally found time to progress with glow plugs. Removed them all (easy on the 1.8 as positioned in front), tested for continuity and all failed. All covered in carbon. Ordered new set, tested for continuity and all good (no surprise), fitted them and still no start. Connected PC with FORScan installed, first time I had used it in earnest so not sure what to look at. Set it up to record fuel pressure while cranking and appears to show pressure initially rising then suddenly dropping to zero, even though cranking still continues. Trace below shows fuel pressure traces for two attempts at starting, note the pressure drop to zero occurs while still cranking. The engine usually does one "cough" early in cranking. At this point I gave up and towed to my trusty garage. They have had it for 2 weeks and said it is not air in fuel and have tried a new cam shaft position sensor but no good and they seem to be giving up so the problem seems to be coming back to me. I will start another thread now, asking about this particular issue of pressure drop off, with the hope it may attract some more response.
  6. Spent time on internet and the car today. Puzzled by not getting any resistance reading from glow plugs when in situ, removed them and all showing no continuity from terminal to body. Assume they are failed and ordered new set, cost approx £50. To my knowledge they are originals, so 140K miles old. I am not convinced this is the root problem because many people say they are not necessary unless starting from very cold but at least fitting a new set would eliminate this as a potential problem. If this did not solve the problem then air in the fuel seems a likely possibility. When fitting new fuel filters I have terrible trouble starting because of air and have no method of bleeding. Last time had to tow to garage for them to fit and bleed (hope they fitted it correctly). Seems I need some sort of bleed pump to eliminate air, how, what, where? Away for the next week min, but will report back when new glow plugs fitted, could be in a few weeks!
  7. It had always been a good starter but then started to be more difficult, in both hot and cold conditions. Took to our locally trusted garage, but they could find no problem and it always started for them. They suggested we had not been waiting long enough for coil light on dashboard to go out. Finally it failed while in a Petrol station (engine warm) and had to tow back to base. I assumed it would start the next day, as it had previously, but will now not start at all. Have tried charging battery overnight and jump starting from my car but no good. It turns over ok and will usually "catch" but then fails to pick up and just dies. Not sure how to proceed, is it the glow plugs, I have read that there are not really necessary when starting warm or in mild ambient conditions (as we have now). I have measured voltage to glow plugs at startup on main feed wire when disconnected from plugs and reads about 8.5 v. Have tried to measure resistance of plugs but cannot get a reading, how can you test plugs? Thinking low compression not likely because it has come on quite quickly. Note - engine has long standing problem of oil mess on top LH side which i cannot locate, loss of power and smoke when going up hill fully laden and towing small camping trailer. Otherwise runs well around town! Any ideas or thoughts much appreciated.
  8. More problems with my son's car,. He reports bad smoke from exhaust when going up hill (black and white) but no great power loss. The engine has a longstanding oil leak from LH rear side of engine, assumed to be some sort of pipe split, this may or may not be related. He has also reported that oil level is 1cm above too mark on dip stick. This is rather strange because I recently did an oil change and feel pretty sure it was not over filled, but I could have made an error. engine is 1.8 diesel 150 k miles EGR blanked.
  9. Can anyone give an idea of how much current the electrics should be drawing from the battery when car switched off.
  10. After much messing, we finally took car to garage and they decided alternator faulty, replaced and light now out, battery reading around 14.5 when running. (may still have problem with battery losing charge, currently investigating)
  11. Solved, info in case it helps anyone else. Replaced drivers door control unit with 2nd hand one of eBay (£25) and window raise now working. Retried old unit and definitely faulty. Very surprising because fully sealed unit in dry cool environment so would have been the last electronic component I would have expected to fail before switches and motor.
  12. Slow start because of flu. Dismantled door and window mechanism. Mechanism stuck in down mode, when operating the down window rocker switch results in a quiet click from the door control unit and momentary power across the two thick wires on the window regulator female socket (disconnected from regulator). Operating the up window rocker switch results in no click from the door control unit and no power to the socket. My only conclusion is that either the door control unit or rocker switch assembly are faulty so trying to identify replacement parts (used on EBay) to test. Can anyone help to explain how this system works, firstly the switch assembly has 4 rockers/6 wing mirror adjusters/window lock switch, yet only 3 connects, I would love to test it but impossible if I have no idea how it works. Secondly the plug connecting to the window control unit has 2 heavy wires and I think about 4 thinner wires, what are they doing. Very difficult to diagnose a fault if you have no idea how the system works. Any help welcome.
  13. It happens very often that I am having problems diagnosing a fault, particularly with electrical items. My solution is to try and purchase the identical suspect item on EBay (used) and test by substitution then return to seller if no solution. But finding the EXACT same part number is usually very difficult, eg currently working on electric window and suspect the door control unit, original part nos 6G9T 14B533BJ, the closest I can find on eBay is 6G9T 14B533BL only the final digit is different. I normally assume the significance of the digits decreases from front to back and therefore the last digit being different does not concern me too much. Am I right?
  14. Window stuck in down position. Checked fuse and ok. I will be working on the window this weekend, any ideas where to start would be welcome.
  15. 2007 1.8 TDCI Battey light on approx 90% of the time. Voltage measured at 11.8 when engine off and 13.8 when engine running and light on. It appears the battery is charging so why us the light showing?