BugCo22

Budding Enthusiast
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About BugCo22

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday 05/15/1983

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ben
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    S Max 2.0 tdci titanium
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Portsmouth

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Ok, downloaded forscan for android today and so far it's the best app ever. Alright it's not as good as laptop version, but I don't own a laptop so it's next best thing. Run all sorts of pids and found something interesting. Looking at the picture, the green line is egr position commanded by the ecu. The red line is position v command error %. Looking at both lines could it be fair to say the egr valve is fooked ?? Or can it or the pcm be reset ??
  2. That's what I thought with the single wire, it must spit into 4 somewhere in the loom as each glow plug is supplied individually at the plug/Glow plug harness.
  3. Yes I have changed cars. I do have an s max, 2.0 tdci. Not changed pic yet as car needs a clean for a photo lol.
  4. Cheers dude, I was there myself last night so no worries lol. Ok what you said about the plugs being in circuit makes sense and I may of over looked that and explains a few things. However, my rubbish drawing shows my test points. A and B are a plug and socket at the back of the engine bay. A has 4 wires for each plug individually, B has 4 wires going into engine loom. From B, I would expect that to come from fuse/relay being a positive leg. Im guessing the wires are joined together somewhere ?? However when I test continuity back to the fuse I get 0 ohms, As expected. But also when I test the same pin on B to the neg on battery I also get 0 ohms ?? That can't be right surely ??
  5. Ok so I'm having trouble with white smoke on cold startup. Initially thought of glow plugs, so checked relay, fuse etc and finally changed the plugs. No difference and found old plugs to be ok. Been testing and playing today and I've got some odd readings with an ohm meter. Firstly I assume the engine block is neg charged and the glow plug cable is positive, when active. So testing today and testing from the glow plugs that I can reach, I am getting 0 ohms from the back of the plug (pos) to the engine and neg and then also to the fuse ?? So this indicatates a dead short. So I disconnected the glow plug loom at back of engine and did same test from engine side to neg and fuse and got 0 ohms on both. Then tested glow plug loom and got 0 ohms to neg on battery and fuse ?? Can anyone tell me what's going on or if I'm doing something wrong ?? Cos in my eyes, I have a dead short on glow plug harness and rest of engine harness ?? Yet the fuse has not blown ??
  6. Ok so been working on a few issues with the car, to be honest getting a very fed up with it now. But, new issue is this. See video https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qzb684_HFRJ7OCMuvwZSHGR0fj33qTPM/view?usp=drivesdk car seems to start ok then all of a sudden starts hunting ?? Does it every time it's started ?? Any ideas ?? I also have a P02E2 code, related to MAF sensor. It just seems odd as it starts ok then gets worse ?? Currently the PCV valve hose is disconnected and blanked on the intake side, yes the pcv valve is left venting to atmosphere bit I'm trouble shooting at min. It seems to make no odds if it's connected or disconnected and blanked.
  7. Ok title says it all really. I recently changed ( about 2 weeks ago and all has been ok) the sensor in an attempt to fix another issue, however it didn't work. Driving to work today and get "engine malfunction" message on dash, so checked for codes once I got to work and got a P0101. I checked the live data and had nothing so I plugged the old one into the car and that had nothing either ?? I've been through the haynes manual and found fuse 9 might be related but the fuse is fine. Is there anything else obvious that I'm missing or am I going to have to start chasing loom connections ?? If so it's a 2.0 tdci. Also if anyone a pinout for the plug to other end, that would be awsome if you could share 🙂
  8. Yeah true lol. I think this problem is the PCV valve. I was trying to test it before, doing it wrong aswell. Firstly I broke the yellow clip holding it on and secondly I forgot to plug it back on 😕 but I've noticed there is oil sprayed out the back of it all over the bulkhead. I suspected the valve already and have bought another manifold, also need a new hose now too. Could extra oil sprayed into inlet cause a smoky startup ?? That's my next issue lol.
  9. Ah yes, that has just reminded me, I was under the car looking the other day and noticed what looked like an oil slick that's run down the engine at the back, drivers side. I might have to investigate the source and fix 2 probs at once 🙂 I'm guessing any work on the back is going to be a pig of a job 😞
  10. Ok so the car is 2.0 tdci, she is quite smoky on first start up. I think that will be the bigger of my problems 😞 but when I have the fan on in the car I can smell fumes. It's more noticeable at slower speeds or stop/starts. It's smells different to the exhaust though. Any ideas as to usual culprit??
  11. Ok sorry if the title is a bit vague. I currently own a 57 s max. Bought it cheap and came with a few problems, slowly working my way through them. But today I replaced my suspected faulty EGR valve. Only with a cheap used one to see if it made a difference. But on a test run, the engine is making a kind of "parade whistle" (warble whistle) noise that seems to follow the boost and vacuum stages of the engine running ?? It's quite loud from the outside. I will post a short vid tomorrow of the noise. I'm not sure if the original EGR was fooked and fitting this one has revealed a leak else where ?? It's just the type of noise is really odd. I've done all sorts of internet searches and nothing comes close to the noise I'm getting. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas ?? Ok it should be this link, the last one was my daughter at Christmas:-/ https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sj7h9u21aoD3Cmg4fLT6vGAXzotnINN6/view?usp=drivesdk
  12. Hi there, I have a 56 plate mondeo 2.2 ghia x. I need to replace the front springs but will change the whole spring and struts setup. Question is, do I need a spring and strut setup specific to the 2.2 ghia x range ?? Or can I use a 2.0 litre set ?? I've been looking at eBay options and some statements have said "not suitable for lowered, ghia or sport versions, so it got me thinking ??
  13. Oh yeah, 70nm for the bearing bolts lol
  14. Well that went pretty well, all fixed :-) I did manage to round one of the old torx bolts, but a 14mm socket and a hammer solved that one lol. Cheers for all the help :-)
  15. Thanx very much for your replies. I jus checked and already own the female torx, jus off now to get a male set and a new bearing. Then to get my hands dirty lol. Does anyone know the torque settings for doing the new bolts up ??