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About DanGull

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    Area Rep: Midlands (Despite owning a Seat)

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    Formerly a Mk7 Fiesta Titanium 1.6 TiVCT now a Seat Leon FR+ 2.0TDI 170
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  1. I have unpinned the Ford Y Cable topic written by JAR as, having read it again today, there are a few key pieces of information which are wrong. So - here is my version of the topic, I hope it's a little clearer. Connecting an iPod or MP3 Player to the MK7 Fiesta There are two different setups which need to be taken into account. One for those of us with the USB port and one for those without it. For Fiestas with no USB port You will have a single Line in/AUX port just in front of the gear stick. This port takes a 3.5mm jack (commonly referred to as a headphone jack) such as this: To connect an MP3 player or iPod to this port, you will need a 3.5mm jack - to 3.5mm jack lead such as this: Connect one end to the Line in/AUX port in the car and the other the headphones output (or you can use Line Out if the player has one) of the MP3 player The MP3 player/iPod will be controlled in the same way as if you were listening to it through headphones - as you've essentially turned your Fiesta into a giant pair of headphones. Importantly - the MP3 player/iPod will not charge and no track information will be displayed on the car's screen. Also, you cannot use the stereo/steering wheel controls to skip tracks. The volume controls will work, but this is only controlling the volume of the stereo itself. I suggest you set the volume of the MP3 player iPod at 50% and then crank up the car's volume - the battery life of the MP3 player/iPod will be better than if you have it set at 100% all the time and distortion is a possibility if you have it so high. For Fiestas with the USB Port There is a myth that only the official Ford Y cable can be used with the MK7 Fiesta. This is not the case. The Y cable looks like this: It can be purchased from (among other places) FOC Partner - Ford Parts Centre or your dealer. Here is the link for Ford Parts Centre: Y Cable on Ford Parts Centre It is for use with Dock Connector iPods (3rd generation onwards) and consists of an Apple dock connector jack at one end with a USB jack and 3.5mm jack at the ends of the 'Y'. There are a few disadvantages of the Y cable: 1) It's very flimsy. If you try and twist it so that the iPod is in the position that it's shown in the Fiesta brochure, it could well break. Mine is less than 6 months old and already showing signs of wear. 2) It's an odd length. The only realistic place you can keep the iPod is in the first cupholder, which interferes with the handbrake. So here is my alternative: After reading JAR's thread, I was intrigued as to how Ford had managed to get only their cable to work - simple fact, they haven't. I have tested official Apple cables, Kensington Cables, Cambridge Audio cables and they all work fine. I currently use an official Apple branded dock connector jack - USB jack cable and an unbranded 3.5mm jack - 3.5mm jack cable (for no other reason than they're both quite long). The dock connector connects to the bottom of the iPod (I use a 5G Video 30gig iPod) and the USB jack at the other end plugs into the car's USB port. The 3.5mm jacks at either end of the other lead plug into the car's Line in/AUX port and the headphone socket of the iPod. You MUST use both leads of you want data to be displayed on the car's screen and to have full control through the stereo and steering wheel. I have run the leads under the driver's seat and then velcro'd the iPod to the underside of the driver's seat. It's very neat, the iPod is always ready (yet out of sight of thieves) and the handbrake is unimpeded. A Note for iPhone Users As of 19/2/10 there is a major flaw with the iPhone which has stopped me from using it as an audio player in the car. The iPhone has the 'option' of Bluetooth audio - but it is flawed. If the iPhone is connected to a Bluetooth device (ie for handsfree calling) it will automatically disable its dock connector and play any audio through the Bluetooth feature. The dock connector can be selected again, but it needs to be done every time you start the car. If you want reliable playback through cabled means, you'll have to turn off the phone's Bluetooth and lose your handsfree calling. My advice for iPhone users, is use the iPhone as your phone but keep an iPod or memory stick in the car for music. Even when you do this - the iPhone will STILL try to play through the Bluetooth audio feature - running down your battery. This has been noted by thousands of users, so hopefully Apple will fix it in a future software update. Connecting 'Non-iPod' MP3 players via USB I only own iPods, therefore I have been unable to test to see whether other brands of MP3 player can be connected by USB - they can certainly be connected by 3.5mm jack. I would be grateful if someone could please let me know if they have any success here. I will happily add to or change this topic if anybody has anything to add or wants anything clarifying - but I hope that clears some things up.
  2. It depends entirely what you're using it for. If you want a waterless spray on, wipe of product then it's poor. It's lubricity is nowhere near as good as Optimum No Rinse and so you're just asking for swirl marks and paint damage. If you intend to use it as a drying aid or a quick detailer it's perfectly acceptable. If you're using it as a protection product, again it's poor because it doesn't add any.
  3. Amen to that. Keep up the good work also.
  4. Jason - contact me by PM with more information including the other member involved and I'll see what I can do to help.
  5. Can anyone give me some reasons as to why this may happen? It's very odd, everything runs fine except for Google Maps or any webpage with a Google map on it. I get the spinning multi-coloured beach ball and usually have to restart Firefox. Mac OS X Lion and Safari running on a MacBook Pro.
  6. I have no outside tap at current house - and for ages was doing ONR washes, which well and truly took the shine (badum tsh) off detailing for me. Now I have one of these... http://www.mobiwasher.co.uk/ Which is great. A thorough wash gets through three tanks of water I find, but I'm yet to run the battery down with a single wash. Mark - if you're going to buy a Swissvax wax, it may as well have been BOS. Quite simply, it's the best product I have ever used in the history of anything. I had that and Autobahn, both now gone to to the giant eBay sale in the sky.
  7. I think Mark MK will be in a cold sweat from the lack of Dodo products. If it weren't dark I'd go and photograph my lot in the man cave, sorry - shed. I'm still gutted I had to sell most of my wax collection (which stood at 24 at the time ) My latest addition is a Mobi cordless pressure washer, fantastic bit of kit. This was a loooong time ago when I still had the Fiesta:
  8. The way to look at it is that if you have to ask if you should mention it - you should mention it.
  9. There's an awful lot of moaning about insurance prices. I've said it before - while insurance is a legal requirement for drivers, it's not provided by charities, or the government or some bottomless pit of money that's quite happy to just give it away. Insurance companies are businesses, and are run as such. They are insuring high value items - take a car at £15K brand new replacement value. It's not exactly a premium car, but it's a fact that on many policies if it's written off in year 1 then the insurance company will pay out £15K and only received a fraction of that as the premium. Insurance is a risk-based business, and they are entitled to make money on the back of their risk. And no, having no previous claims doesn't automatically make you a better driver, but it does make you less of a risk. Adding mods to your car firstly increases the cost of repairs etc as has already been said but it also immediately places you in a category of driver who statistically are more likely to have accidents than Miss Daisy who drives her Nissan Micra once every 6 months - so the cost does and should go up. It's simple - if you aren't willing to pay the premium, get a different car or don't mod it. Mozes-cuz - the fact that you asked your insurance company about mods, then didn't declare them but still had them fitted it just asking for trouble. If you wrote your car off, your assessor will probably have that information and will check the car to see if they've been installed. Bingo - no insurance. Lots of insurance companies are good samaritans in that instance and will at least pay the third party part of your claim - but they don't have to be, which means that Jo Bloggs who was also involved in the accident then has to claim on their own insurance even if it was your fault, pushing up their own prices for no reason at all. More generally - I don't see why so may young drivers think they are entitled to drive smart, often modified cars and yet not get stung on the insurance front - it really is simple statistics and economics to me. I'm 30, no fault claims, I drive a reasonably powerful car, am insured for business use at 22,000 miles a year and live in a less-than-ideal urban postcode. I pay £800 a year. I understand that this means I am going to pay more than my 65 year old father who drives almost the same type of car but does 5,000 miles a year and lives in an affluent rural postcode. He pays £280 or thereabouts.
  10. I haven't tried it Mark owing to the fact that Red Mist makes my skin go red, so I'm reluctant to try their similar products.
  11. If you want a liquid wax - definitely AG Aqua Wax. The Megs spray waxes aren't great (with the exception of the xpress waxes). Others to consider: Duragloss Aquawax (smells AMAZING) Dodo Red Mist (technically a sealant)
  12. Well, seeing as you said EVERYONE... Total miles: 1001.3 Miles remaining [computer]: 25 (I think, the fuel computer is a total waste of time...it goes down to zero then back up again, the fuel light is I believe linked to it but sometimes comes on at 60, sometimes at 40) Miles remaining [actual]: Not sure MPG [computer]: 78.3 MPG [actual]: 82.75 (55 litre tank which I make 12.1 UK gallons, so it's based on that) Average speed: Not sure Miles remaining after tank filled: 450 (it always says this if you put in more than half a tank it then gradually goes up over the first half of the tank)
  13. Pureguard is a sealant - it's very similar to a number of products sold by car dealers such as supaguard and diamondbrite. A sealant is a synthetic often polymer coating that sits on top of the paint and supposedly stops contamination bonding to and soiling the paint. Sealants are used by many detailers with great results as they have excellent protection properties and excellent longevity, especially when compared to a similarly priced wax. HOWEVER - you are reliant on how well the sealant has been applied in the first place. In the hands of a pro a sealant will be applied evenly and comprehensively with no gaps. In the hands of the guy who gets paid 50p a car to wash the dealer's new stock...who knows? If you have paid for the treatment, you may as well try to get the best out of it (I really hope you didn't pay the £300-400 some dealers charge for these treatments, the kits can be had on eBay for a fiver). So - I would say wash with a wax safe shampoo such as Dodo Juice Born to be Mild and then top up your protection with either a soft, hard or liquid wax (depending on the effort you wish to put in). As for polishing, claying or anything else involving an abrasive process or chemicals (such as tar remover) I wouldn't, as you'll probably end up removing the coating. If it was free - I would take it off. A wash with an all purpose cleaner such as Tesco Daisy at a reasonably strong concentration (say 5:1) will probably shift it. After that, you can maintain your car in any way you wish. If you like the concept of a sealant that really works and protects the paint amazingly, have a look at Cermishield by Concours Car Care. I have applied it to my brand new Leon - it's amazing stuff.